My low fuel light seems to have stopped working... bulb is ok, and connector under tank seems firm and no loose wires
Any ideas?
Will
Any ideas?
Will
Low Fuel light
- Thread starter (RIP) willstatt
- Start date
Iain Hogg
Guest
Too much fuel in the tank?
:goof :goof :goof
:goof :goof :goof
Mick Fagan
Registered user
The connector under the tank is usually the main culprit in either missing bars on the gauge or the yellow light not coming on.
The connector is rather cheap and sits in an area where it cops lots of bad weather muck.
The tin plating on the male and female ends, get a film of muck and as apparently the current value is rather small, the resistance is too much and the signal doesn't get through.
Each time that has happened to me (bar mising that is) I've used cotton buds, and, industrial Acetone very carefully, so as not to get Acetone on any plastic parts. This, has always worked for me.
One friend scraped his male and female connector with a sharp knife, that worked as well.
Mick.
The connector is rather cheap and sits in an area where it cops lots of bad weather muck.
The tin plating on the male and female ends, get a film of muck and as apparently the current value is rather small, the resistance is too much and the signal doesn't get through.
Each time that has happened to me (bar mising that is) I've used cotton buds, and, industrial Acetone very carefully, so as not to get Acetone on any plastic parts. This, has always worked for me.
One friend scraped his male and female connector with a sharp knife, that worked as well.
Mick.
Mick Fagan said:
...probably best to restrict this practice to electrical connections....
iletts
Registered user
I know I'm coming in late on this, but I've just had a duff contact problem with the 'dial needle damping' control box. This sits in between the flasher relay and the cat code plug. I think it has two functions:
1. to reduce the operating current on the tank switch
2. to avoid the light flickering as fuel sloshes around
I suspect that the current involved is milliamps or less, therefore any slight crap will cause malfunction. It is an unbelievably complicated circuit for what it does. I simply removed and reinserted the box a few times which made the light work again.
I have the wiring diagram as a pdf file if anyone wants it
1. to reduce the operating current on the tank switch
2. to avoid the light flickering as fuel sloshes around
I suspect that the current involved is milliamps or less, therefore any slight crap will cause malfunction. It is an unbelievably complicated circuit for what it does. I simply removed and reinserted the box a few times which made the light work again.
I have the wiring diagram as a pdf file if anyone wants it
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