Hi Guys,
I have this posted on the chain gang, but there is tumble weed blowing through the G650 section, so it may be of use to people here.
Mods please feel free to move this a better section if I have posted in the wrong place.
Well I finally hit 10,000km or 6000 miles so it was time to check the valve clearances.
I took some photos along the way so that anyone going to do this for themselves will know what to expect.
Just some pointers, Buy a copy of the BMW service manual and it will show you the full procedure.
So here we go :-D
The engine must be cold when checking the clearances.
Remove the seat and the tank side panels, The plastic lugs at the rear of the tank cover were reluctant to come out
of their rubber grommets, a spray with some oil eased their journey. I put some grease on these plastic pegs
when it was going back together.
That will expose the airbox, I removed the air filter cover to check it. I removed the filter and blew it out with the air gun. It was very clean and will be fine for another 10,000km.
Now I removed the two allen screws at the rear of the airbox. The battery must also be removed now.
And then the two screws at the front, either side of the headstock. I had to remove the screw from the brakeline block to get access to the right-hand side screw, my bike has ABS.
Now you are almost ready to lift off the airbox, just unhook the various relays and a connections that are attached,
also the breather pipe that runs up along the front right frame down tube. I was able to wiggle this off and back on the airbox without disturbing the factory clip.
Now this is what you will see!
I cleaned the throttle body and then covered it with clean paper to prevent any dirt getting into the inlet.
I disconnected the exhaust sensor and some other connections to allow the wiring loom to be moved out of the way to the right-hand side of the bike.
I also disconnected the throttle cable and removed the throttle cable bracket from the throttle body. This bracket is held on by two T25 security torx screws. It may be possible to remove the throttle body instead but I just removed the bracket.
Now we have a clear path for the rocker cover to be removed. The coilpacks are just a push fit, so pull gently while twisting slightly, and they will come off.
I also changed the sparkplugs at this stage. Use the air gun to blow the dirt and dust from around the plugs before removing the old plugs.
The plugs need a thin walled 18mm deep socket. If your plug socket will not fit through the rocker cover, don't panic. When the rocker cover is removed you will have unrestricted access to the plugs :-D
Now the cover can come off without restriction. Be sure to clean the loose dirt from around the cover to prevent it falling into your engine.
I lifted the rear out first as shown in this photo. I also left the breather pipe, visible under my thumb attached. The cover can just hang from this pipe.
Now is not a good time for the cat to show up :-D
This is what you will see under the cover. Everything looked like new on my bike :-D
To set TDC, the two marks on the camshaft sprockets have to be in line as shown here.
To rotate the engine to set TDC, the factory manual will tell you to remove the 14mm allen bung from the right-hand side crankcase and then use a 8mm allen key to rotate the engine clockwise.
I tried this but my 8mm allen keys would mot fit the end of the crank. 7mm was too loose.
So don't bother with this, just put the bike in a high gear and push it forward untill the marks line up.
Checking the clearances, mine were on the upper (larger clearance) limits, just the way I like them!
Inlet valve clearances 0.03mm - 0.11mm
Exhaust valve clearances 0.25mm - 0.33mm
So thats it, My clearances were all in spec so I could just bung it back together. Be sure to clean the airbox rubber where it goes over the throttle body and when refitting the airbox ensure ths rubber is full seated down on the throttle body.
Just redo everything you undid and thats it. The torque setting for the valve cover bolts is 10Nm. If you do not have a torque wrench just tighten them in a cris cross pattern untill they bottom out and then just snug them up. a light touch! Same thing goes for the bodywork fittings, easy does it!
It took me two hours and twenty minutes to do this, including taking photos for you guys, making tea and feeding the cat.
Next time It should be a little over an hour. Nothing too difficult here and great access to the top end.
When it is all back together start it up and check for any oil leaks or anything unusual.
Total cost £0.00 + two spark plugs :-D
It should look like this if you put it back together the right way. :lol:
I have this posted on the chain gang, but there is tumble weed blowing through the G650 section, so it may be of use to people here.
Mods please feel free to move this a better section if I have posted in the wrong place.
Well I finally hit 10,000km or 6000 miles so it was time to check the valve clearances.
I took some photos along the way so that anyone going to do this for themselves will know what to expect.
Just some pointers, Buy a copy of the BMW service manual and it will show you the full procedure.
So here we go :-D
The engine must be cold when checking the clearances.
Remove the seat and the tank side panels, The plastic lugs at the rear of the tank cover were reluctant to come out
of their rubber grommets, a spray with some oil eased their journey. I put some grease on these plastic pegs
when it was going back together.
That will expose the airbox, I removed the air filter cover to check it. I removed the filter and blew it out with the air gun. It was very clean and will be fine for another 10,000km.
Now I removed the two allen screws at the rear of the airbox. The battery must also be removed now.
And then the two screws at the front, either side of the headstock. I had to remove the screw from the brakeline block to get access to the right-hand side screw, my bike has ABS.
Now you are almost ready to lift off the airbox, just unhook the various relays and a connections that are attached,
also the breather pipe that runs up along the front right frame down tube. I was able to wiggle this off and back on the airbox without disturbing the factory clip.
Now this is what you will see!
I cleaned the throttle body and then covered it with clean paper to prevent any dirt getting into the inlet.
I disconnected the exhaust sensor and some other connections to allow the wiring loom to be moved out of the way to the right-hand side of the bike.
I also disconnected the throttle cable and removed the throttle cable bracket from the throttle body. This bracket is held on by two T25 security torx screws. It may be possible to remove the throttle body instead but I just removed the bracket.
Now we have a clear path for the rocker cover to be removed. The coilpacks are just a push fit, so pull gently while twisting slightly, and they will come off.
I also changed the sparkplugs at this stage. Use the air gun to blow the dirt and dust from around the plugs before removing the old plugs.
The plugs need a thin walled 18mm deep socket. If your plug socket will not fit through the rocker cover, don't panic. When the rocker cover is removed you will have unrestricted access to the plugs :-D
Now the cover can come off without restriction. Be sure to clean the loose dirt from around the cover to prevent it falling into your engine.
I lifted the rear out first as shown in this photo. I also left the breather pipe, visible under my thumb attached. The cover can just hang from this pipe.
Now is not a good time for the cat to show up :-D
This is what you will see under the cover. Everything looked like new on my bike :-D
To set TDC, the two marks on the camshaft sprockets have to be in line as shown here.
To rotate the engine to set TDC, the factory manual will tell you to remove the 14mm allen bung from the right-hand side crankcase and then use a 8mm allen key to rotate the engine clockwise.
I tried this but my 8mm allen keys would mot fit the end of the crank. 7mm was too loose.
So don't bother with this, just put the bike in a high gear and push it forward untill the marks line up.
Checking the clearances, mine were on the upper (larger clearance) limits, just the way I like them!
Inlet valve clearances 0.03mm - 0.11mm
Exhaust valve clearances 0.25mm - 0.33mm
So thats it, My clearances were all in spec so I could just bung it back together. Be sure to clean the airbox rubber where it goes over the throttle body and when refitting the airbox ensure ths rubber is full seated down on the throttle body.
Just redo everything you undid and thats it. The torque setting for the valve cover bolts is 10Nm. If you do not have a torque wrench just tighten them in a cris cross pattern untill they bottom out and then just snug them up. a light touch! Same thing goes for the bodywork fittings, easy does it!
It took me two hours and twenty minutes to do this, including taking photos for you guys, making tea and feeding the cat.
Next time It should be a little over an hour. Nothing too difficult here and great access to the top end.
When it is all back together start it up and check for any oil leaks or anything unusual.
Total cost £0.00 + two spark plugs :-D
It should look like this if you put it back together the right way. :lol:
