Booster plug on twin cam

Adventure Boy

Adventure Boy

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Anyone tried an Accelerator Module or booser plug on a 1200 twin cam if so what were the results
ive got a Akrapovic end can and K+N filter just wondering if it will give any benifits ?? :thumb
 
Accelerator module turned up in today's post for my 2010 twin cam (std exhaust). Will let you know how it performs when I give it a go at the weekend. Btw it is the extended version with the remote temp sensor.

Mark
 
Victor c said:
Accelerator module turned up in today's post for my 2010 twin cam (std exhaust). Will let you know how it performs when I give it a go at the weekend. Btw it is the extended version with the remote temp sensor.

Mark
Click to expand...

Keep us posted please, I had the module on a 2004 and it transformed the bike. I am not expecting much on the TC module but we will wait and see if it suffices the cost.

:thumb
 
accelerator mod

Hi
Yes, go for it . I have tried it with and without when I first got my 2010 TC and it is noticeably better/ smoother with, and no obvious alteration to fuel consumption.
Cheers
 
I saw the megga thread on these but there was no deffo on if they made any real improvement on the Twin Cam so looking forward to the results, my TC is a 12 plate and is quite smooth but smoother would be good, and at that price its a cheap mod :D
 
A 10K resistor in the inlet air temperature sensor lead does pretty much the same job. The wire will need to be cut, but for testing you can tape it up with PVC insulating tape then use heat shrink sleeve to rejoin the wire if its works (does not) work.
 
Fitted the Accelerator Module today, which took about 15 mins. Led the remote cable fwd and secured sensor just in front of the forks.

Road tested the bike, and although the difference is not earth shattering, the fuelling at low rpm is smoother. It is more noticeable in moving traffic when constant throttle adjustments are being made. The transition from closed to power take up is less snatchy (not that it was that bad to start with).

Bike has been showing 54.3 mpg for the last couple of thousand miles, so will see if consumption is affected.

I have had very positive dealings with Marc from Solid Solutions in the Netherlands. I contacted him a couple of months ago with a query as to wether the one I removed from my previous R1100s a few years ago would fit the R1200gs. These response was quick and a yes. Unfortunately I could not find it, so ordered a new one. Order placed last Sunday, email confirmation the same evening, email confirmation of posting on Monday and module arrived on Thursday. All in all, excellent service:beerjug:

Would I buy one again? Yes. It takes the rough edge off the engine and although a small step forward, I like the result.


Mark
 
Thanks Victor c would you have a link or web address where you bought it ill order one ASAP thanks
Rob
 
Adventure Boy said:
Thanks Victor c would you have a link or web address where you bought it ill order one ASAP thanks
Rob
Click to expand...

Thanks also Victor C for taking the trouble to add to this thread. If it's a win win then hey, why not. My next question would be.....would it make a difference if you go for the cheaper option...shorter.....or not?

I think the one he is talking about is here my friend http://www.sol2.be/Performance/ENG/Home/index.html

Ride safe.
 
Format said:
Thanks also Victor C for taking the trouble to add to this thread. If it's a win win then hey, why not. My next question would be.....would it make a difference if you go for the cheaper option...shorter.....or not?

I think the one he is talking about is here my friend http://www.sol2.be/Performance/ENG/Home/index.html

Ride safe.
Click to expand...

That is the company. I had the short one on my R1100s, and to be honest, worked just as good. I also made my own, as someone suggested in an earlier post with a resistor. This was for a Tiger 1050. That also worked, however it was not that reliable and kept failing at the soldered joints.
 
Ok ordered the extended one just now 50 euros delivered hopefully it will make a difference thanks for the help guys :thumb
 
Eh?

Bike has been showing 54.3 mpg for the last couple of thousand miles, so will see if consumption is affected.



Mark[/QUOTE]

I'm lucky to get 48.6, after the remap. What the hell am I doing wrong?
 
Giving it the beans lol my remapped triple black was doing about 53 as well until I gave it the loud handle then it dropped quite a bit, I'm not after making it any faster just smoother for u up riding the tb after the map was very harsh between 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd then up was smooth as silk, the new Rallye is a lot smoother but still looking for crosstourer smooth gear changes
 
What great service ordered Sat morning and its just been delivered, Ill fit it tonight and see if its any better ill take the bike to work in the morning and see
Rob
 
Done just over 500 miles now with the Acelerator Module fitted. Fuel consumption has remained the same. :bounce1
 
Interested to hear your views :thumb2

Anyone here using a PC V on a twin cam ? Apart from the extra wires it seems like the best value option given you can get 1/2 your money back when you sell the bike :flag
 
Quick 40 mile jaunt this morning on all different roads from 1st gear dry trails to fast a roads and its made the bike smoother for sure not sure if its any quicker but gear changes are now silky smooth 2nd to 3rd is like 5th to 6th smooth now
Very happy camper I got the longer one for 50euros and routed the sensor to the non exhaust side of the bike under the seat frame seems to be the coolest place on the bike

Verdict your not fitting a turbo so don't expect 3rd gear throttle wheelies :eek: but it deffo makes the bike smoother, is it worth the 50 euros and 20 mins to fit
100% I'd recommend one to anyone
Rob
 
Bendy toy said:
A 10K resistor in the inlet air temperature sensor lead does pretty much the same job. The wire will need to be cut, but for testing you can tape it up with PVC insulating tape then use heat shrink sleeve to rejoin the wire if its works (does not) work.
Click to expand...

+1. This is a method that's been used by aftermarket tuning firms for decades.

I wonder why no one pays any attention to this option, but instead keep going on about expensive plug-in 'boosters' which are simply an in-line resistor 'potted' into an imposing-looking housing?
Never underestimate the power of marketing.

I had this same problem with the American K-series forums. The resistor and 'booster' plug are fundamentally the same solution, but the resistor comes in at literally a tiny fraction of the cost.
I've even heard people arguing about whether this method is 'better' than a Power Commander, despite costing almost as much as one.

Victor C: The way around the problem of the terminals breaking off is to stress-relieve the assembly:
  1. When handling the resistor, DON'T bend the terminals. Keep them as straight as possible.
  2. Cut the terminals a generous distance away from the resistor body. About 15mm each end should do the trick.
  3. The bike's IAT sensor has two wires leading from it to the ECU. Pick one wire. Cut just enough out of it (leaving about 4mm at each end to bare the wires) so that the resistor will bridge the gap.
  4. Solder in the resistor using resin-core solder. DO NOT twist-'n-tape.
  5. Wrap the resistor and about 20mm of electrical lead at each end with four or five layers of nylon heat-shrink tubing. This will create a durable enough assembly that there will be no weak points at the soldered ends or the resistor body.
 
I went with the plug and play option as I didn't want cut cables on a bike in warranty I don't like to give them any excuse to say no mate that's not covered because this has been cut, that in its self is worth the 50 euros :thumb
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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