not so Good Vibrations

... or ride round it. Every LC engined-bike I’ve owned has displayed this to a greater or lesser degree. When I’ve noticed it, having the Alu luggage attached amplifies it - so when riding with no luggage it’s much less noticeable but there is definitely a pulsing being felt at certain revs. If they are as indicated around 3,000rpm then ride in a different gear to stay out of that zone if it annoys you. No different than many bikes with vibes/powerband/glitchy throttle at certain revs.
 
On mine it started or at least became noticeable after a tyre brand switch so waiting for them to wear enough to change. Then see if it alters at all.
 
Did you read my posts... started in 5th on my bike... but got quite bad quite fast... is this the same thing ?

https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/508377-5th-gear-annoying-pulse-through-the-pegs-at-3K

https://www.ukgser.com/forums/showt...box-rough-at-low-RPM-anyone-had-a-box-go-bang

I.ve got a 2017 bike now and I can just detect the same thing, but only 10% what it was on the 2015 plate... but will it get worst over time? Who knows.. if felt like a bearing to me...
Just had a read of your thread. It's the same thing I reckon.

Just about to do an oil change on it now, so will see if it makes any difference.

I commute with the bike so nearly always have the cases on it to hold my gear, do a bit of two up so usually run firm suspension too ... I reckon I'll end up with the same result... there'll probably still be a hint of it but will see how it goes today.

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Just had a read of your thread. It's the same thing I reckon.

Just about to do an oil change on it now, so will see if it makes any difference.

I commute with the bike so nearly always have the cases on it to hold my gear, do a bit of two up so usually run firm suspension too ... I reckon I'll end up with the same result... there'll probably still be a hint of it but will see how it goes today.

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:thumb2 as a slight test try the bike without any cases at all just to see if any harmonics are finding their way through the bike.
 
I've been on 4 LCs, and they all do it to some extent. With weight on I didn't notice it much on the 15 plate.. only when the weight was removed... but then it started doing it all the time and the box I'm sure got harder to change. 14,15,17 and 18 plates
 
Strange, it was with weight removed that I noticed the vibration least.

Just went for a spin to warm it up before the oil change but stripped all luggage off, set suspension to normal, pre-load to rider only and it was far less pronounced... even hard to notice.

Just did the oil change now, heading out for a spin to see what difference it's made.

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Strange, it was with weight removed that I noticed the vibration it least.

Just went for a spin to warm it up before the oil change but stripped all luggage off, set suspension to normal, pre-load to rider only and it was far less pronounced... even hard to notice.

Just did the oil change now, heading out for a spin to see what difference it's made.

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it will make a big change, for a few hundred miles.. then it will be back I'd guess
 
Strange, it was with weight removed that I noticed the vibration least.

Just went for a spin to warm it up before the oil change but stripped all luggage off, set suspension to normal, pre-load to rider only and it was far less pronounced... even hard to notice.

Just did the oil change now, heading out for a spin to see what difference it's made.

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What type of luggage are you using.
 
Givi Trekker Outback. 2 X 37 Litres and a 58 Litre Topbox

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Givi Trekker Outback. 2 X 37 Litres and a 58 Litre Topbox

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Ok when the luggage is on the bike, can you feel any play anywhere when you give them a tug around, I found my Bumots to have a little bit of play on the half moon bracket, and put some clear tape around the luggage rack, this stopped the metal to metal play, and obviously some harmonics, see if you have anything in that area that moves.
 
Ok when the luggage is on the bike, can you feel any play anywhere when you give them a tug around, I found my Bumots to have a little bit of play on the half moon bracket, and put some clear tape around the luggage rack, this stopped the metal to metal play, and obviously some harmonics, see if you have anything in that area that moves.
Thanks for the suggestion. Checked all luggage and fittings all fixed soundly to the bike.

Went for test ride after the oil change. Naturally the bike felt better, shifting smoother etc etc

The vibration felt about 30% better in the same configuration as I had the bike before. (All luggage + ESA Normal and Config: Rider + Pillion)

It is still there.

I rode it in all ESA combinations + configs and found that the vibrations increase proportionately with preload... which is stating the obvious a little.

Set for just Rider, barely noticeable.
Set for Rider + Luggage, noticeable.
Set for Two-Up, very noticeable.

Soft/Normal/Hard really didn't make any noticeable difference.

I guess it is the gearbox.

I still plan to service the final drive when the parts arrive and will report back.

Until then I'll ease up on the pre-load.

The engine oil was last changed 3500 miles ago, maybe they need a little more regular than 6000. Oil looked shite but was almost 100% clean. The tiniest few fragments/shavings.

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Thanks for the suggestion. Checked all luggage and fittings all fixed soundly to the bike.

Went for test ride after the oil change. Naturally the bike felt better, shifting smoother etc etc

The vibration felt about 30% better in the same configuration as I had the bike before. (All luggage + ESA Normal and Config: Rider + Pillion)

It is still there.

I rode it in all ESA combinations + configs and found that the vibrations increase proportionately with preload... which is stating the obvious a little.

Set for just Rider, barely noticeable.
Set for Rider + Luggage, noticeable.
Set for Two-Up, very noticeable.

Soft/Normal/Hard really didn't make any noticeable difference.

I guess it is the gearbox.

I still plan to service the final drive when the parts arrive and will report back.

Until then I'll ease up on the pre-load.

The engine oil was last changed 3500 miles ago, maybe they need a little more regular than 6000. Oil looked shite but was almost 100% clean. The tiniest few fragments/shavings.

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Might sound a bift daft but if you had a GS-911 or a Motoscan etc you could do a ESA calibration, only takes 5 minutes but takes away another gremlin.
 
Might sound a bift daft but if you had a GS-911 or a Motoscan etc you could do a ESA calibration, only takes 5 minutes but takes away another gremlin.

Good idea, I knew about GS-911, but never bothered because it was quite pricey but Motoscan looks like a cheaper option. Do you know where can I find out which diagnostic cable is required?
 
Good idea, I knew about GS-911, but never bothered because it was quite pricey but Motoscan looks like a cheaper option. Do you know where can I find out which diagnostic cable is required?

This is the exact setup I have, so you can use it for Euro 3 bikes like yours, and the newer Euro 4 bikes, the ODBD2 connector is actually built by the guys who build the Motoscan app so is totally compatible, sorry it is in German but you can see Everything needed, you can also buy it from Amazon I guess but this is direct.

https://www.obd-2.de/shop/profi-dia...an-bt-diagnoseadapter?number=UCSI2000-K-SHORT

The adapter cable for your bike is simply one like below, many out there.

https://www.amazon.de/Qiilu-Adapter...WRNN1ZS9SFX&psc=1&refRID=8GBBJ0Y14WRNN1ZS9SFX

The Adapter in house name is unicarscan ucsi-2000
 
This is the exact setup I have, so you can use it for Euro 3 bikes like yours, and the newer Euro 4 bikes, the ODBD2 connector is actually built by the guys who build the Motoscan app so is totally compatible, sorry it is in German but you can see Everything needed, you can also buy it from Amazon I guess but this is direct.

https://www.obd-2.de/shop/profi-dia...an-bt-diagnoseadapter?number=UCSI2000-K-SHORT

The adapter cable for your bike is simply one like below, many out there.

https://www.amazon.de/Qiilu-Adapter...WRNN1ZS9SFX&psc=1&refRID=8GBBJ0Y14WRNN1ZS9SFX

The Adapter in house name is unicarscan ucsi-2000

Brilliant, thanks for all the help. :thumby:
 
I tried it with my 911, but didnt change a thing... I had the same. my last bike was manual shocks so I had them up on max pre-load for 2 up touring. Took all the boxes off and the pillion and went out by myself for the day.. it was horrid. Turned the pre-load down to one rider and it almost went.. so pre-load does play a big part in transfering the feeling to the pegs.. it also may change the angle of the shaft a bit if only one up?
My rear tyre was about due for a change .. Pilot 3, but I can't see why that would cause it?
did you do the shaft.. was it okay?
 
I tried it with my 911, but didnt change a thing... I had the same. my last bike was manual shocks so I had them up on max pre-load for 2 up touring. Took all the boxes off and the pillion and went out by myself for the day.. it was horrid. Turned the pre-load down to one rider and it almost went.. so pre-load does play a big part in transfering the feeling to the pegs.. it also may change the angle of the shaft a bit if only one up?
My rear tyre was about due for a change .. Pilot 3, but I can't see why that would cause it?
did you do the shaft.. was it okay?

That is quite interesting would be nice if someone knew exactly how the shaft angle changes when ESA is changed, where is Fred_jb he will surely figure that out....
 


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