A return to Yugoslavia

More island hopping and there's a storm a coming!

The forecast for Wednesday, day after tomorrow looked very poor with thunder and lightning promised so decided perhaps we should stay a day longer as while in the warm we might as well stay and then head home as more of a 'get home' than an extended tour. So we could do the tourist bits in town on the wet day and instead today head for the island of Krk.

To get there we'd virtually have to go as far as Rijeka so perhaps worth an extension for get some chain lube as we were now out and the chain was starting to sound poor and fly around like a snake on an electric fence, I was beginning to worry it might not see us out!

The coast road ( no I won't) further up loses its grandeur as it get nearer to the city and past lots of resort towns, still pleasant enough though. It the city I pulled up and asked a young man (fluent English again and very helpful) if there was anywhere we might be able to buy chain lube. He suggested a garage and a motor shop not far away and gave great directions. At the garage they had none but I notice d scooter place nearby and Bev wandered over in investigate. It was actually a small bike shop with a few sportsbikes and a nice hipster custom built by one of the blokes. Very friendly owner had boxes of Ipon lube and sold us a large one for about £16 so fair enough and lifeblood for the chain (seems good stuff too). Once again great helpful people. Couldn't pay by card so Bev had to wander to a nearby ATM. Locals asked if she was alright and if she wasn't too hot walking around in all that gear. Fantastic people the Croatians & Rijeka looked a pretty interesting place too, but easier seen without a bike.

Leaving the city we took the pay motorway for first (and last) time. Great road but just prefer the back roads unless you haven't noticed. The leg to Krk stopped at the bridge. Quite some bridge it is too - the world's 2nd largest reinforced concrete arch bridge - a monster! Cost £3 for the bridge (or was it the motorway?) Only way on /off anyway and free coming back. Nice enough island but bit more touristy so not like Pag etc. At the bottom is Baska though which is pretty beautiful. Personally I'd choose a different island, very busy in the 'hot spots'. Mind, still little isolated spots like Glavotok where there was nothing but tranquillity and beauty.

On way back I was looking for another white road and soon found it, again unsurfaced, unused, and great. Bev suddenly said 'stop', 'go back'. We did but nothing was to be seen. Bev has noticed out of the corner of her eye a large black snake that fell out of the tree it was sunbathing in as we came past - must have crapped itself! A similar thing happened years ago on the slip road joining the M6 when Bev saw a rat jump a good 18" into the air as the BM flew noisily behind it! Anyway, no snake sadly - but shows why a pillion with intercom is so useful. I'd miss loads of things if it wasn't for Bev's eyes on the back. Into the village that sounded like the local word for police and then onwards back to bridge off.

We stopped at supermarket and two locals that had staggered out of the attached bar (into their car) smiled away at us and said 'Heil Hitler', hang on blokes, I pointed to the GB plate, the daft one too pissed to figure it out. They weren't unpleasant, just pissed and stupid...and getting into a car

Storm clouds gather...but hang on, it's clear blue skies

Because the forecast was do poor for today we were sightseeing in Senj, to be honest the weather looked lovely

We went to the Nehaj fort first which was pretty interesting with quite a bit of information on the Uskoks . A rum old bunch of brigands that held out against overwhelming forces before being shafted by their 'allies'...and so the tale re-tells itself through history and right up to recent times. Worth a quick read on wiki or similar.

Walking down to one of the town bathing areas - it was starting to look a wee bit choppy! The storm was a coming

Time for lunch. A large seafood spread on the front was very good, one slightly earthy fish ( was that the described 'gold fish'!) but overall excellent, great spread. With a glass of wine each a couple of coffees each and a final 'schnapps' it came to £45, not cheap, but not that expensive for the quality.

The horizon was looking threatening and a lot of buses were suddenly disgorging tourists to get them settled before the obvious rain arrived

And so it came to pass!

The skies blackened, the seas rose - too late for a swim then! On the seafront Bev kept a weather eye out for sneaky waves

Fantastic weather to see and watch and we left it almost to the last minute before legging it back to the apartment. The wind was strong, the rain heavy and we had made it back with literally about a minute spare

Bit of chain maintenance and weather watching!

Once the rain finally stopped we went out to front for stroll again. It was freezing - things had taken a dive

We took a wander along to the Autocamp - remember all of 3€ less than the apartment. It was packed with motor homes and one solitary one-man tent next to a m/c, like Neil & Laura had been. Bet it wasn't much fun in the recent weather. So - bear in mind there really isn't any point camping, maybe not so cheap to get a room for one, but I wouldn't be so sure. Being camped surrounded by 30 motor homes isn't exactly romantic!

Nice sunset

Did some research back at base and booked some onward accommodation.

Looked at a Croatian weather site and saw a Bora warning...Bora...

Another lesson on its way Fritzy boy...

fritz said:

and 'a funny thing happened on the way to the Bol d'Or' Yacht slayer delux...maybe another time I'll tell the tale

Really - it was a yacht related accident

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Cracking pic, you did have hair once upon a time then

Fantastic ride report and pics

Enjoyed that.

JohnnyBoxer said:

Cracking pic, you did have hair once upon a time then

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Enough to 'style' at one point

fritz said:

Enough to 'style' at one point

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Helmet hair in that pic, so it was true

Great read Fritz.....pass on our best to Bev (and you as well I suppose...)

fantastic. Thanks for taking the time to post

Great RR - Thanks for posting.
Fantastic info about the bears - we’re now hoping to visit next summer.

Well worth the trip - worthy and interesting if not a Monday I suspect the Tesla museum also good and in same sort of area

And so...the end is near...

Only got to ride home

What else could possibly happen surely all the adventure is over

Lets find out

Pulled by the Fuzz

We'd booked a night in Irding Austria which looked quite achievable, a few interesting passes maybe a longer day but nothing untoward. The wind had certainly got up in the night, lots of rain too, but it eased around 4am and was dry at least in the morning. When I opened the heavy metal door from the patio to get to undercover area were the bike was parked the wind grabbed it and I was nearly flung out. Hmmm so when the lady was talking about the Bora then this must be what it is. She saw us packing u and came for a chat looking quite concerned. Now with my nick(name) I should understand even more German but I could understand enough from the continued use of Bora that she was trying to highlight how dangerous the wind can be. She was saying something about the road, signs, flashing lights and closed. Sadly not enough was understood to be able to make complete sense of it but I tried to reassure her we'd be careful. I think she had her doubts.

It's very ironic that we'd decided to stay an extra night due to yesterdays weather, but hadn't factored in that today would be the actual problem.

It turned into 12hrs of riding, being nicked, long delays on busy roads and a day Bev would describe as 'nothing but pee stops', only 331 miles but with many delays...from the outset

The road was quiet as we left, the wind 'fruity' but not as bad as I've ridden through on the A66 (which was seriously scary mind!) or in Patagonia where it just howls for hours unrelentingly. There was one day there were I had to crouch on the tank for relief, Bev laid on me and nodded off - I had to wake her up so I could sit up! But still, it was moving the bike about....if I'd been one up on the Serow I'd be in the sea, that windy - the weight in this case was an advantage

We only had to go about 50 miles before we'd be turning off into the mountains (but isn't that were its blowing from????) so I just rode sensibly, easing approaching bends and watching out for debris and rocks. The sea was being drawn up into a fare old frenzy - little water spouts dancing across the surface and lots of 'white horses' as my Mum would say. It looked angry - I definitely wouldn't be out there! There were a few trucks stopped by road and I did see some sign with flashing lights and a truck symbol so thought aha - no trucks allowed.

Not much further up there was a Police car on other side of the road, we passed and it immediately turned and followed us into the village. I eyed my speedo very carefully but then his lights and siren can on and I pulled over to the side, bloody hell I thought, here we go

I wasn't speeding, I was riding when I shouldn't be - no motorcycling on the coast road (and I guess motorways etc) when the Bora alarm is out. How the fuck a tourist would know I don't know, but it was a serious matter to them. No surprise they spoke brilliant English and when he explained it to me he was asking where we'd come from to which he said "didn't you seen the signs" I said I'd seen one but thought it was for trucks, he said 'no, it's for anything except cars'. I would have hoped he'd take pity on us, warn us, and that would be it. It's luck really, I think he was getting his quota and proving he was following their road regulations so we were unlucky on this occasion - but they were very nice about it . He said he's have to fine us. Bugger. 500 kuna, but, as tourists and less likely to be aware 250. That's about £30 so far cheaper than a speeding ticket almost anywhere so not bad really, whatever you might think.

It was all legit with a ticket written and everything. We didn't have any real Croatian money left though as we were leaving the country...'Not a problem, there's an ATM just down the road', guess that's why he followed us to here - been in that situation many times before. They didn't take cards - I asked! As I say, all legit and all very reasonable, you just might think you'd get away with a ticking off. They didn't even mind Bev talking photo's said it was fine.

'So what do we do now' then I asked, 'you have to wait', eh - 'we have to be on our way, how long do we have to wait', 'It could be several hours'. Whaattt....holy shit this was turning into a significant disaster

When I said we need to get to Austria that night he then helpfully said there is a road up into the mountains in a few kilometres. 'Are we allowed to go that far to get off this road' I said hopefully. Yes he said - he said they'd follow us to that point

2 other bikes came up and were pulled over too, 2 Germans, I explained what was happening and their consternation was as ours - they were lucky, they just come from the village so there hadn't been any signs so were checked and told they could continue as going through mountains to a friends in Zagreb, lucky buggers. They were well traveled too so we had a chat about Iceland and South America.

We shook hands all round and we set off following the police car to the Lidl roundabout described, indicated right and gave a quick blip of acknowledgement on the horn. He waved flashed the lights and honked the sirens and we turned off somewhat relieved, but a bit delayed. Let's hope there aren't many more delays ahead....or any unseasonable weather! surely not!

I thought maybe this bora thing was a bit of an over reaction, maybe you do need a bit of caution, see this video though (not the same days we were there....I'm not entirely stupid

<iframe width="640" height="385" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/BnGMCGIHVFU" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

and this bit from Wiki "Near the towns of Senj, Stara Novalja, Karlobag and the southern portal of the Sveti Rok Tunnel in Croatia, it can reach speeds of up to 220 kilometers per hour. On 21 December 1998 the speed of a gust on the Maslenica Bridge (north of Zadar) was measured at a record speed of 248 kilometres per hour. During 22 to 25 December 2003 on A1 highway near Sveti Rok Tunnel a new record was measured at a speed of 304 kilometers per hour."

Again, you might question saving a couple of Euros and camping I've only just thought - what about the poor bugger we saw on the campsite last night...what the fuck was his night like

https://www.adventurebikerider.com/video-winds-croatia/ another interesting m/c related video...and that's why you need to strap your sheepskin on! (which also makes you think it would be like surfing a rug on a polished hall floor it you stopped fast or hit something...attach your sheepskins! I always do)

That is actually the same bit of road we were on, but going other direction. Very impressed - not - number of motorists that just drove passed the fellah. Also interesting the comments regarding wind in other countries. I never knew about this - you now do, So - watch out for that then

For love nor money could I find an image of the sign you need to look out for. From memory it was yellow, with a flashing (yellow or orange?) light on / in it and had a picture of a truck on. It may even have English text, but I certainly missed it anyway sadly.

So on reflection, and having viewed the m/c video from same road, in what loked like very similar conditions the police probably did us a favour (though we'd have turned off were we did anyway and didn't die getting there either)

As an aside it took me ages to figure out why Croatia is 'HR' for country, it's because Croatia is HRVATSKA in Croatian!

This also re(searched) up "In Senj, the Bora outbreaks are the most frequent, longest lasting and strongest on the Adriatic", again, would have been good to know - you are now aware

So by 11am we were finally 'on our way', think we'll notice that delay at the other end of the day but hay ho

Slightly different route across Slovenia - and different to planned as no time to go further left and take in the Vršič Pass which I had particularly wanted too and allowed time for....bummer. However, based on what happens later maybe that also would have been a bad move

The route out of Croatia - a road we hadn't been on on the way 'in' was having some huge repairs and also was the route of choice for the HGVs and it was busy, busy, busy, loads of traffic lights and a right pain...that said it was probably magnified by fact of the Bora - the trucks would be using these routes rather than the motorway. We stopped just before crossing into Slovenia again - Bev had exactly the right money for a coffee and hot chocolate from a machine while the card covered the petrol. Waterproofs on as it was a magnificent 7C, damn cold - especially with the roulette heated grips!

Through Slovenia without a stop sadly, right though Ljubljana - pretty, worth a flying visit, no need for bike. All around in far distance was snowy peaks - hmmmm, whiter than you might expect I am thinking :shock: we left by the 91 noticing some memorials by roadside - only now do I know these were for the only concentration camp in Slovenia in WW2, Ljubelj. We didn't really have time to stop, but wish we had. Even sadder now knowing the tunnel we went through was built by slave labour, makes you think From the website 'In the nearness of the Concentration camp Ljubelj is a restaurant Koren and just beside is the adrenaline park', factual, but perhaps a little too blunt

It was a case of pressing on, from memory a stop at a MacDonald's for warmth and quick fueling then continuing and nightfall creeping in, some nice roads - mainly because we had to avoid the motorways as hadn't got a 'vignette' so couldn't use 'em.

Interestingly it appears Austria and Germany mustn't be keen on Google Maps as they have no coverage so little man can't remind me where we were! Still we rarely knew while there anyway in cold and dark

Finally dark and heading for Solk Pass as most direct way over to Irding. A bit of backwards forwards as not so easy map reading in dark. At one point the biggest bloody fox I've seen in my life ran out in front of us but lucky hand-brake turned and lunged back into the dark before we all came to a tricky situation. Finally finding the right road we saw the sign - folded down with (effectively) closed due to snow. 'kin hell, dark, cold and no easy way to where we wanted to be....and having paid to stay.

Drove on anyway and saw a man walking his dog, my German and his English was enough to confirm it and finally get some suggestions for alternative routes after a couple of other cars coming down confirmed closure and no way through. The route I chose via Sankt Johann was also 'quiet high' the bloke said and I groaned. Next right was the motorway with no alternative I could see (there is a parallel non motorway road - but it would have a been a lot further round).

We set off to attempt to find the Sankt Johann route which we eventually did, but not without difficulty in the cold and dark...at least it was dry! Was rather nervous going up the road - no signs suggesting closure, but virtually no traffic...no bloody surprise this late on mind!

Eventually I judged we were near the highpoint and there was no sign of snow so finally we could relax. Thank ****

We arrived at the hostel near Irding and were overjoyed to find it was roasty toasty, quiet and well equipped, from en suit bathroom in room to two fully fitted kitchens for the residents. All quiet on the western front as we unpacked and discovered - joy of joy - an honesty box for the wine and beer. one litre of wine and a beer and a euro back from 10€, happy with that. Best £32 we'd spent that room that night! A taxing day though only 331 miles, I think I should have chosen somewhere a bit further west, we'd come a bit out of our way and missed two great passes, one because of time (shorting the route!) and one due to being closed for snow (lengthening the route!).

Went to bed feeling tired, but overwhelming relieved, warm and fettled. Turned the lights off and the luminous starts above the bed glowed in the dark....that was a surprise and put a smile on our weary faces!