Refurbing the GS

I used Henderson's for my recent (and first) bike resto, although not a BMW but a Honda, it was the same idea... Lindsay is a moody bugger but can be very helpful when he wants to. Not particularly cheap but knows his metal (being a metallurgist...:) ).

BTW, one of the things I was really glad I did, plated all the fasteners, axles, small brackets... I soaked what I could in cheapest malt vinegar and scrubbed with a wire-brush when washing it off, then took for zinc plating. They came out amazing. So much nicer to work with on re-assembly, even if there was a few head-scratching moments on re-assembly. It was not expensive either.

[oops, seems I replied out of sync somewhat, I was on page 3. :) Nevermind... ]
 
:thumb2 Thanks Gordon! Hope all’s well with you and the family?


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all good pete thanks, covid rife here in fife though, in and out of bloody isolation as various family members catch it and recover. starting to think im immune! catch up some time in 2021 when life is back to normal and both our 100's are back on the road ;)
 
Today’s job: mounting the steering stem and instrument binnacle. Plus getting the motor ready for installation tomorrow. Handy things, mover’s trolleys. :D


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Looking good...

Thanks Colin, a compliment indeed but if my natural bodgery needs any proof ... :D

Today and with a bit of help, I got the lump in. Notes to self ...

1. Next time, while waiting for engine work, don’t bother installing the main wiring harness and relays etc.

2. Remove the oil filter cover, it’ll get in the way! (May only apply to motors with the oil cooler.)

3. Leave the battery cage until after the lump is in, as per the wiring harness!

4. Once the motor is in, use a jack and a jack stand at the front and back to move the lump incrementally to get the mounting studs in. Two jacks would be ideal.

Hindsight is a great thing! :blast
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Now, can someone recommend a source for Molykote or similar for the gearbox input splines?
 
Optimal TA - great stuff . . . . There's a 1/2 kilo tin of it here . :augie.

Bring a small tin or jar ;).

Bob.

Brilliant! Thanks Bob. Proper biscuits will be brought. :D I'll give you a call tomorrow?

That's the forks mounted. Top tip: before clamping down the top yoke, check that the electronic rev counter cable (if fitted) is on the correct side of the fork stanchion! Doh! :blast

Plus remember that the triangular plate that secures the instrument binnacle has 4 'oles at the top. It's the two upper one you want to use! Ask me how I know .... :augie

Still, progress is progress ...
 

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pop the binnacle off the top mounts and reroute the cable the way you want ;)

Not when it’s behind the stanchion but needs to be in front, Jay. The pic is the “after” pic once I’d dropped the stanchion an inch or so.


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Cough Cough Unplug it inside :beerjug:

Fair enough. I have to admit, I could not be arsed wading through the wiring in there behind the speedo etc and went for the reverse of what I'd just done. If it's a simple male/female plug, that would have been easier right enough.

Talking of plugs, I looked at the wiring from the handlebars and discovered the front brake light switch had parted with one its feeds. Bugger! Another call to Motorworks.
 
Fair enough. I have to admit, I could not be arsed wading through the wiring in there behind the speedo etc and went for the reverse of what I'd just done. If it's a simple male/female plug, that would have been easier right enough.
Talking of plugs, I looked at the wiring from the handlebars and discovered the front brake light switch had parted with one its feeds. Bugger! Another call to Motorworks.


LOL its usually just 3 wires for a revcounter but I think one of the 2 clocks has a 4 pin plastic connector

Oh and P.S. Never mention "wading in wires" when one is working on one of these bikes

One shall try and find you a pic of a twin shock headlamp shell

Now That is wading :aidan

brake switch if the wire hasn;t blackened you can solder them BM wire seems to be good quality as opposed to CCM which I had to cut a foot of wire to get somewhere to Solder it Modern wire is pure schite quality in comparison to the old stuff


See before you button on the gearbox? Did you check the rear crank seal ? and the Oil pump housing O ring seal just below it for weepage too ??

Its a good time to do it and the Clutch plate thickness and the oyer plates for blu'ing, cracking and high spots?
 
The switch is fecked Jay with wire pulled out and green mush inside the plastic housing. Way beyond soldering. Main oil seal looks ok with only clutch debris around the bell housing. Oil pump, I’ll leave alone: if it ain’t broke ...


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The switch is fecked Jay with wire pulled out and green mush inside the plastic housing. Way beyond soldering. Main oil seal looks ok with only clutch debris around the bell housing. Oil pump, I’ll leave alone: if it ain’t broke ...

Yeugh Yes that does somewhat put a Kibosh on the soldering

"If it ain't broke!"
You have owned a landrover before haven;t you :aidan

All I was saying was "While you are there" because remember you have to take all of that stuff off again to get back in there

Or would the Local Lingo be "Afore Yee go!" :aidan


Oh and So you can enjoy the lovely wiring of your Airhead GS

This is a twin shock headlamp shell ( I hate going in there in case something that is weak cracks or breaks)
 

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Yeugh Yes that does somewhat put a Kibosh on the soldering

You have owned a landrover before haven;t you :aidan

All I was saying was "While you are there" because remember you have to take all of that stuff off again to get back in there

Or would the Local Lingo be "Afore Yee go!" :aidan


Oh and So you can enjoy the lovely wiring of your Airhead GS

This is a twin shock headlamp shell ( I hate going in there in case something that is weak cracks or breaks)

Which one the CamBus?
 
Am I missing summat here? This is the graphic of the clutch actuating rod etc from the manual ...
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And this (minus the actuating lever, spring and rubber boot) is what I’ve installed after I got the gearbox in. I’m pretty sure I’ve not mislaid out but no 12 (piston) seems to be missing?
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Is it me? :augie


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