Start up noise

KTM-AL

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My new to me 30K mile 1150GS makes a terrible noise when starting, I have just changed the starter motor to no avail. The noise goes immediately it starts and runs fine with no rattles at all. I did see someone mention that it could be the cam chain tensioner, but would that make it rattle when running?
Cheers
 
Left hand cam chain tensioner maybe?

Take a look on the top, rearward side of the cylinder (relatively close to the main engine crank case). It's the nut bread large (17mm from memory?) Or smaller, closer to 15mm - again, if I remember correctly.

Because it disappears after start up, it suggests the oil is teaching the tensioner to offer tension. This tensioner was upgraded. Easy thing to do and works well - if that's what it is

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
Believe the updated one has a stronger spring and may retain more oil so gets up to pressure sooner. It's a well known upgrade for the original...
 
The left hand tensioner just looks like a bolt with a piston on the parts fiche. What is there to go wrong?

The lefthand tensioner is "upside down" on top of the cylinder so the oil drains out when the engine isn't running.
Start the engine up and it can rattle for a brief period as the tensioner is refilled with oil.

The righthand tensioner is underneath the cylinder so the oil doesn't run out.
 
The lefthand tensioner is "upside down" on top of the cylinder so the oil drains out when the engine isn't running.
Start the engine up and it can rattle for a brief period as the tensioner is refilled with oil.

The righthand tensioner is underneath the cylinder so the oil doesn't run out.

Thank you, that makes sense. Just seems odd that something so simple could fail.
 
My new to me 30K mile 1150GS makes a terrible noise when starting, I have just changed the starter motor to no avail. The noise goes immediately it starts and runs fine with no rattles at all.
Cheers
Any chance that someone has put 10W40 or Worse Fully Synth 5W or 0W in it

you may find that an oil and filter change and refilling with a decent 20W50 will sort it!!

I had a chum who refused to waste the 10W and change to 20w50 until the 10W was due changing and he endured that horrendous clatter until he eventually changed the oil
 
I’ve got exactly the same noise on the bike I’ve just bought with 13k miles on it. It sounds awful. I’m going to try the upgraded LH tensioner and see if it fixes it
 
I’ve got exactly the same noise on the bike I’ve just bought with 13k miles on it. It sounds awful. I’m going to try the upgraded LH tensioner and see if it fixes it

Try 3.8 litres of 20W50 first!!! if there is any chance there is think pish oil in there !
 
I was told it just had an oil change, but not knowing what the oil was, I'll stick some 20w/50 in it with a new filter and try that first. I can use the oil I take out and service the mowers. I'll keep you posted.
 
Thank you, that makes sense. Just seems odd that something so simple could fail.

I wasn’t saying it’s the cause of your “terrible noise”, I was answering your question about how the tensioners function.... to know what your noise is we’d need a description and a location. The cam chain tensioner doesn’t make a “terrible” noise as such,
 
I wasn’t saying it’s the cause of your “terrible noise”, I was answering your question about how the tensioners function.... to know what your noise is we’d need a description and a location. The cam chain tensioner doesn’t make a “terrible” noise as such,

I have changed the oil filter and waiting delivery of my oil. It should be here tomorrow so I'll see.
I might remove the tensioner later anyway as I've just had the left hand side throttle body off to replace noisy butterfly bushes, so it will need balancing once the oil shows up.
 
I might remove the tensioner later anyway as I've just had the left hand side throttle body off to replace noisy butterfly bushes, so it will need balancing once the oil shows up.

You do know not to play with the screws on the inner side of the throttle bodies don;t you ??

They are factory set and a bit of a bollocks to get set just nice If a punter does move them
 
You do know not to play with the screws on the inner side of the throttle bodies don;t you ??

They are factory set and a bit of a bollocks to get set just nice If a punter does move them

Yes I know :). I have replaced the bushes on our other GS. I was very careful with the butterfly orientation and making sure it sits square with the same gap top bottom and sides.
 
The lefthand tensioner is "upside down" on top of the cylinder so the oil drains out when the engine isn't running.
Start the engine up and it can rattle for a brief period as the tensioner is refilled with oil.

The righthand tensioner is underneath the cylinder so the oil doesn't run out.

So the fact that the LHS tensioner is initially noisy isn't a particular concern as long as it quietens off; basically initial noise is to be expected due to design and location?

Is the camchain/tensioners a scheduled replacement at a particular age/mileage. I can't see anything in the literature that I have that suggests if/when they should be replaced?
 
Well I've removed the LH tensioner, The piston is a nice fit in to the bolt with about 1mm of sprung movement.
 
Well I've removed the LH tensioner, The piston is a nice fit in to the bolt with about 1mm of sprung movement.
Fit and spring aren't going to show you anything. Just get the upgrade

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 
The two types of left hand side cam chain tensioners are completely different in design.

This may help you work out which you have fitted, but a rule of thumb is the earlier type has a 17mm hex head, and a spring.
 

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And from personal experience.......
When you fit the new tensioner with a NEW crush washer, do it up slightly tighter than you think.
Then nip it up again after 100 miles if it starts to leak
 


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