R1250GS Rattling noise

scarab1987

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Hello. I face an issue with a rattling noise at my R1250GSA MY21. It is noticeable when I accelerate from 3000-4000rpm and when I am fully loaded and uphill is worst. So when load increases, noise is higher.

I have replaced exhaust cams under warranty, with dealer we suspected the decompression mechanisms but no luck. I have used the best fuels with additives but no luck. I have removed all protection bars and engine protection but no luck. I have inserted a spacer at right cam chain tensioner but no luck, left one replaced with the updated one. Any idea?

Below I attach 2 videos with 2 other guys that have exactly same issue with me.
 
Your post has just reminded me - the last ride on my 2021 1250 i noticed for the first time what could be the onset of the noises heard in your videos.
The noise on my bike is almost like a pinking `tinkle` sound and only happens when under load.

Your bike is still under warranty, has the dealer not been of any help?

Keep us updated if the source of the noise is identified.
 
I have recently noticed the pinking sound - could be the recent very hot weather maybe …??
 
It doesn't sound quite like pre-ignition; more of the chirruping noise to my ear - is the noise coming from both sides, or just the left?

You don't mention whether there has been any noticeable drop in performance.

Has the dealer checked out the shift cam mechanism? ........ see from c 1.10 here .......
 
It doesn't sound quite like pre-ignition; more of the chirruping noise to my ear - is the noise coming from both sides, or just the left?

You don't mention whether there has been any noticeable drop in performance.

Has the dealer checked out the shift cam mechanism? ........ see from c 1.10 here .......
Seems that comes from both sides or from middle. I am not sure. I g have checked both cylinder heads for abnormal gaps or wear and nothing suspicious found.

I don't really know at which revs shiftcam system changing the lobes.
 
Seems that comes from both sides or from middle. I am not sure. I g have checked both cylinder heads for abnormal gaps or wear and nothing suspicious found.

I don't really know at which revs shiftcam system changing the lobes.
As I understand it, the cam shifts are dependant on throttle position & load, it isn't rev specific hydraulics like say a VFR. The change from the low load, low lift cam, to the high lift profile is controlled electronically using a solenoid.

I was wondering if the noise is accompanied by any deficiency in power output, if say the solenoid was failing to shift cleanly to the high lift cam profile. Maybe you could try riding a 1250 that is running properly, back to back with yours if you are uncertain?
 
Sorry I forgot to answer before. No there is not any power loss during this noise. Just rattling noise. I have ridden friend's bike that has the noise and another that is ok. It is really annoying.

The question is why the shift cam produces the noise if it's from there.

Imagine that if revs passes 4000rpm, everything is fine.
 
Just the other day someone mentioned to me this very problem. He explained that his bike had a rattle, coming from the left hand cylinder head and it was fixed by replacing the original, 17mm, 'timing chain cam tensioner' on the left side cylinder with a 19mm one. He showed me how you could tell if this modification had been done by just checking the head of the bolt for the cam tensioner (it's underneath the cylinder see link further down this post). Originally, both sides would be 17mm, but if the mod had been carried out the left cylinder would be a 19mm.

I wanted to know more about this problem so I carried out a quick search in these forums. If you have a read through this thread all should become clear. On page 5, post #94 (linky), you'll find a post by Hann showing where the tensioner is and how to change it, he also compares the new 19mm and original 17mm tensioners side by side so you can see the difference.
 
Just the other day someone mentioned to me this very problem. He explained that his bike had a rattle, coming from the left hand cylinder head and it was fixed by replacing the original, 17mm, 'timing chain cam tensioner' on the left side cylinder with a 19mm one. He showed me how you could tell if this modification had been done by just checking the head of the bolt for the cam tensioner (it's underneath the cylinder see link further down this post). Originally, both sides would be 17mm, but if the mod had been carried out the left cylinder would be a 19mm.

I wanted to know more about this problem so I carried out a quick search in these forums. If you have a read through this thread all should become clear. On page 5, post #94, you find a post by Hann showing where the tensioner is and how to change it, he also compares the new 19mm and original 17mm tensioners side by side so you can see the difference.
This one that you mention is a completely different problem. Tje new updated chain tensioner solves the ticking noise of the left cam chain during idlind. I have already installed and has difference. But my issue is completely different. Mine is under load an when trying to rev up from 2800 to 4000rpm and with more load, noise increases. Please read my first post.
 
This one that you mention is a completely different problem. Tje new updated chain tensioner solves the ticking noise of the left cam chain during idlind. I have already installed and has difference. But my issue is completely different. Mine is under load an when trying to rev up from 2800 to 4000rpm and with more load, noise increases. Please read my first post.
Sorry, the way it was described to me it sounded like the problem you had. Hope you get to the bottom of it.
 
I may be wrong, but i dont think the noise is coming from the engine

If you look at video 1 , look at the suspension height rod, when the noise starts, the rod looks like its shuttling up and down (vertical vibration)

and the noise stops abruptly in the video, the rod appears to stop shuttling

??
 
I may be wrong, but i dont think the noise is coming from the engine

If you look at video 1 , look at the suspension height rod, when the noise starts, the rod looks like its shuttling up and down (vertical vibration)

and the noise stops abruptly in the video, the rod appears to stop shuttling

??
Noise comes from engine area. The suspension movement in the video is just a coincidence.
 
Mines had that noise from new (2019 R1250RT now 11000 miles) a sort of pinking type noise from 2-4k rpm under slight load had it checked out at services but no cause found seems they all do that sir, a characteristic, ... ignore it and ride!:thumby:
 
Mines had that noise from new (2019 R1250RT now 11000 miles) a sort of pinking type noise from 2-4k rpm under slight load had it checked out at services but no cause found seems they all do that sir, a characteristic, ... ignore it and ride!:thumby:
Unfortunately it's very loud to ignore and I am an engineer so very difficult to not hear it.
 
Mine does it, I'm also an Engineer and it annoyed the hell out of me. i bought the bike approved used and suspect the previous owner may have gotten fed up with the noise. Its at 18,000 miles and hasn't gone bang so hopefully its nothing serious.

Fitting the uprated LH camchain tensioner improved things slightly (unless its my imagination) but the engine is still bloody noisy.

That said, it pulls cleanly and is fuelled beautifully with no shortage of performance for my needs as a road bike/tourer.
 
Just a thought - having scoured the various internet forums, I see some riders are suggesting that this noise is due to BMW fitting spark plugs that are too hot for the job in most conditions, resulting in a glowing electrode, rapid tip erosion & hot running, coupled with blueing exhausts in some cases.

The problem is said to be all but cured with a slightly colder plug, the NGK LMAR9AI-10, once the engine warms up fully. (OE is the hotter LMAR8AI-10 I understand)

Whilst it may seem a little counter intuitive, it could be worth a try?
 
Maybe I’m the only one that sees the elephant in the room, but have you checked valve clearance? Believe it’s part of 12k service and better done by dealer cause you have to remove cams to get at shims. Cam timing is easy to knock off as well. Plus they have all the shims.
Some argue that a ticking valve is fairly harmless cause indicates adequate clearance between cam lobe and valve.
Engine pinking is a different story though - and can cause more serious damage like overheating and holing pistons etc.

Mein fuhrer is notorious for retarding timing to get emissions down


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just a thought - having scoured the various internet forums, I see some riders are suggesting that this noise is due to BMW fitting spark plugs that are too hot for the job in most conditions, resulting in a glowing electrode, rapid tip erosion & hot running, coupled with blueing exhausts in some cases.

The problem is said to be all but cured with a slightly colder plug, the NGK LMAR9AI-10, once the engine warms up fully. (OE is the hotter LMAR8AI-10 I understand)

Whilst it may seem a little counter intuitive, it could be worth a try?
Already tried it but no chance. The noise is mechanical and I suspect Clutch. All my spark plugs until now were in perfect condition during 3 20k kms maintenence.
 
Maybe I’m the only one that sees the elephant in the room, but have you checked valve clearance? Believe it’s part of 12k service and better done by dealer cause you have to remove cams to get at shims. Cam timing is easy to knock off as well. Plus they have all the shims.
Some argue that a ticking valve is fairly harmless cause indicates adequate clearance between cam lobe and valve.
Engine pinking is a different story though - and can cause more serious damage like overheating and holing pistons etc.

Mein fuhrer is notorious for retarding timing to get emissions down


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Already checked during 3 20k kms maintenance. I have 62.000 kms now.
 


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