Oh no, Clutch Slip

tanneman

tanneman

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Ok Tossers, I need a bit of help. Done the search thing and none the wiser except 1 reply which said the symptoms disappeared after while.

The bike suffers from clutch slip when accelerating hard in 4th gear and only in 4th gear. Noticed it when overtaking 2 trucks on the A507. Checked it later on in the ride and the revs just rise to between 6000 to 7000 rpm with the speed creeping up steadily while the revs stays steady until it's time to change gear. A bit like the Audi Multitronic if you know what I mean. Came back, parked the bike and not ridden since. Logic says that if there is an oil leak the clutch would slip in every gear. Bike just had engine, gearbox, final drive oil change. If it would help the bike is a 1200GSA, 09 reg and 12700mls on the clock. FBMWSH. Out of warranty off course. Don't want to split the bike before I know what to look for or alternative fix.

The bike is reliable and not a lot of problems, but not as reliable as my R1100S with no problems except tire wear :D
 
My 2010 went in for a new clutch (end of last summer) with only 11k mileage. At first i thought oil, and that it might sort itself out, but it was a genuine fecked clutch. Dealer said it had a bit of a high spot on it.

My symptoms were very similar; only really did it in 4th at about 5.5 - 6 thousand revs. :(
 
Clutch

Hand gaurd not touching the lever? is it adjusted correcty.
 
why dont you bring it to the dealer they might cover it under good will as the mileage is so low be nice and be nice some more and see where that leaves you,
best of luck.
 
If its only done it once then I'd investigate a bit further before tearing into the bike. As DaveGS says it may be as simple as the clutch lever getting nudged by the hand guard.

On my 1200 I had a bit of clutch slip at 8000 miles after being a bit over enthusiastic with the jet wash. Thankfully it never did it again so I'm glad to have put up with it for a couple miles instead of stripping the bike to find nothing wrong.

If you do ride it you're unlikely to have a catastrophic failure any time soon - my 1150 clutch was slipping a bit when I bought the bike and I rode it for 2000 miles while I wondered "should I or shouldn't I?" Even when I took the plunge and changed it the bike was still pulling well enough that I was confident I wasn't going to get stranded.
 
Has the clutch bite-point changed on the lever?

My (worn clutch) lever bite point moved further and further away from the grip as the clutch finally wore out.

At your mileage I would of though a failed oil seal is more likely though.
 
  • Clutch leaver fouling the hand guard - move the guard.
  • Oil seal gone in the clutch housing - replace seal.
  • Over full clutch master cylinder - take out a teaspoon or two of fluid.
HTH

Andres
 
tanneman said:
Ok Tossers, I need a bit of help. Done the search thing and none the wiser except 1 reply which said the symptoms disappeared after while.

The bike suffers from clutch slip when accelerating hard in 4th gear and only in 4th gear. Noticed it when overtaking 2 trucks on the A507. Checked it later on in the ride and the revs just rise to between 6000 to 7000 rpm with the speed creeping up steadily while the revs stays steady until it's time to change gear. A bit like the Audi Multitronic if you know what I mean. Came back, parked the bike and not ridden since. Logic says that if there is an oil leak the clutch would slip in every gear. Bike just had engine, gearbox, final drive oil change. If it would help the bike is a 1200GSA, 09 reg and 12700mls on the clock. FBMWSH. Out of warranty off course. Don't want to split the bike before I know what to look for or alternative fix.

The bike is reliable and not a lot of problems, but not as reliable as my R1100S with no problems except tire wear :D
Click to expand...

Happened to me twice at 4000 km, 6000 km later no problem anymore (keeping the fingers crossed) GS 1200 2010
 
I had this problem with my 07, ok it had done 40K
things to check, most have been said

Hand guard
Fluid levels
Take out starter motor to see if you can see any oil in or on the clutch.
Oil deposits on the right side of engine where gearbox attaches to engine.
If all those are ok I would say give it a few more miles and se if it gets worse or cures itself, if not then looks like clutch is fooked.

I did the clutch on mine my self and there is a sticky in useful bits section that i did a thing with pics

spike
 
tanneman said:
Logic says that if there is an oil leak the clutch would slip in every gear.
Click to expand...

Not so.

It's most likely to slip in higher gears first; usually at middling engine speeds where the torque is greatest when the donkey is under full throttle.

As the clutch's ability to transmit torque decreases, the effect will spread in scope.

:hammer

Greg
 
Relax, I had the same problem and debated wether or not to replace my clutch prior to touring Scotland (2008GSA, 11,000 miles).

In the end I just rode the thing and the problem went away with use. I can now rev aggressively through/past the point of previous slippage during overtakes in the higher gears without any clutch slip occurring.

I suspect a bit of friction plate glazing in my case, which wore off with use. I had removed the starter and inspected, no evidence of oil etc.
 
Greg Masters said:
Not so.

It's most likely to slip in higher gears first; usually at middling engine speeds where the torque is greatest when the donkey is under full throttle.

As the clutch's ability to transmit torque decreases, the effect will spread in scope.

:hammer

Greg
Click to expand...

Excuse my mechanical ignorance but why does the clutch struggle more transmitting the torque in higher gears rather than lower ones?
 
snerkler said:
Excuse my mechanical ignorance but why does the clutch struggle more transmitting the torque in higher gears rather than lower ones?
Click to expand...

Because the gearbox acts as a torque converter. In lower gears the engine's torque is multiplied at the back wheel by the gear ratio. The bike accelerates easily and the load on the clutch is light.

In higher gears the engine's torque is not multiplied to the same extent meaning that there is more resistance to acceleration. The clutch is asked to transmit all the engine's torque against a greater resistance than in lower gears.

Greg
 
Greg Masters said:
Because the gearbox acts as a torque converter. In lower gears the engine's torque is multiplied at the back wheel by the gear ratio. The bike accelerates easily and the load on the clutch is light.

In higher gears the engine's torque is not multiplied to the same extent meaning that there is more resistance to acceleration. The clutch is asked to transmit all the engine's torque against a greater resistance than in lower gears.

Greg
Click to expand...

Thanks :thumb2
 
Mine had its 12k service last week after being stood for three months over winter with no reported problems except needing a new throttle cable.

Took it for a ride into the Dales today and the b*stard clutch was slipping :(

Once I'd filled up with fuel in Skipton and headed up the Grassington road it seemed to sort itself out. Don't know if it was an airlock in the hydraulics preventing the clutch engaging properly, a glazed clutch plate or something more serious like an oil leak contaminating the clutch plate.

There's no evidence of oil misting/leakage on the r/h side of the engine, the clutch fluid level isn't too high and the lever isn't touching the hand guard.

I'll be pretty pissed off if it needs a grand spending to sort it out after 2 1/4 years and 11200 miles :mad:
 
Clutch

How's it going to cost you that much?, if you can't do it you could even drive it down here to Steppers have a night in a b&b and still save a few bob and get a first rate job done.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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