Alternator belt change
The pictures are taken with the fuel tank removed for better viewing and pictures, but you can do the job with the tank in situ .
If you have crash bars fitted,and they have the bar running across the front of the engine, you have to remove the bar to get the plastic cover off.
To remove the plastic alternator cover, undo the four bolts (4mm allen head), be careful and use a good fitting tool. There are two each side, and on the right hand side is an oil pipe ( just ignore it)
Slide the cover down, and to the right. And it’ll come out from the bottom
The cover
You need to undo the three 13mm hex head bolts/nuts.
One each side, and one at the top.
. I use a 13mm ring spanner
On 1100 models, you have an oil breather pipe. Held in place with a 19mm hex bolt at the top, and a allen bolt at the bottom ( 6mm head)
Here’s the pipe
Undo the bolts, no oil will come out, and remove the pipe. 1150 models don’t have this pipe.
Squeeze the belt together, and the alternator will drop down, allowing you to remove the belt.
Some servo bikes have a plastic cover over the alternator pulley, this can get in the way, stopping the belt from coming off. Just pull the cover off.
Servo alternator
Put the new belt on , and tension it. The workshop manual shows the rear of the L/H side bolt being turned with a torque wrench. This raises the alternator, so you can tension the belt at the correct torque. Read the manual if you want to do it this way. And you must remove the tank to get at the rear of the bolt
Where the bolt is located if adjusting the belt by the book.
I raise the alternator with a small pry bar, but I know what tension the belt has to be, so use the official method of tensioning if you’ve never fitted a belt before.
If using the bar under the alternator method, be careful of the ignition wire running underneath the alternator. If you trap this, you’ll sever the wires and the bike won’t start.
Putting it all back is the reversal of the above .
The pictures are taken with the fuel tank removed for better viewing and pictures, but you can do the job with the tank in situ .
If you have crash bars fitted,and they have the bar running across the front of the engine, you have to remove the bar to get the plastic cover off.
To remove the plastic alternator cover, undo the four bolts (4mm allen head), be careful and use a good fitting tool. There are two each side, and on the right hand side is an oil pipe ( just ignore it)
Slide the cover down, and to the right. And it’ll come out from the bottom
The cover
You need to undo the three 13mm hex head bolts/nuts.
One each side, and one at the top.
. I use a 13mm ring spanner
On 1100 models, you have an oil breather pipe. Held in place with a 19mm hex bolt at the top, and a allen bolt at the bottom ( 6mm head)
Here’s the pipe
Undo the bolts, no oil will come out, and remove the pipe. 1150 models don’t have this pipe.
Squeeze the belt together, and the alternator will drop down, allowing you to remove the belt.
Some servo bikes have a plastic cover over the alternator pulley, this can get in the way, stopping the belt from coming off. Just pull the cover off.
Servo alternator
Put the new belt on , and tension it. The workshop manual shows the rear of the L/H side bolt being turned with a torque wrench. This raises the alternator, so you can tension the belt at the correct torque. Read the manual if you want to do it this way. And you must remove the tank to get at the rear of the bolt
Where the bolt is located if adjusting the belt by the book.
I raise the alternator with a small pry bar, but I know what tension the belt has to be, so use the official method of tensioning if you’ve never fitted a belt before.
If using the bar under the alternator method, be careful of the ignition wire running underneath the alternator. If you trap this, you’ll sever the wires and the bike won’t start.
Putting it all back is the reversal of the above .
Brilliant! I'll have to do that job soon 26.5k on the bike at the mo. 
