Brake Pad Replacement

Okay folks, bit of an attempt to gather in the accumulated knowledge of the site.

I'm going to do a replacement of the pads on my 1150GSA (ABS and servo) this weekend having bought a new set from Mr Steptoe. I wasn't terribly worried about doing this since I've done it on bikes since I had an RS100 with drum brakes, then I made the mistake of searching the site for those little words of advice that can make all the difference.

So far I have gathered the following from various threads (in no particular order or author, but I remember the first was posted by Steptoe so is probably worth reading in the circumstances):

1 Get the relevant manual for the bike - I've checked, I have Haynes, Clymer and the BWM one. I've read them, they agree on procedure reasonably well and I'll decide which one to use based on which one stays open to the page that I need.

2 Make sure you are very slow and gentle when pushing the cylinders in. "Slow" - check, "gentle" - check.

3 Have a spare circlip or two for when the ones holding the pins in break. Makes note to ensure bike/car spares shop open when pad fitting being done.

4 Have a hammer and punch (or similar) available for pushing the pins out of the calliper. Thinks - probably should use the word "gentle" somewhere in there near "hammer".

5 Light and careful smear of CopperEase over the back of the new pads before seating. Your brake related lubricating gunge of choice may vary slightly... That's what's written on the tube I have. Note to self - how old is that tube?

6 Bit of emery cloth to clean, and then a light coating of CopperEase or similar on the pin when replacing.

So, anything there I shouldn't do because I've misunderstood or do you have a useful hint or two that I've missed?

I have just replaced mine for the first time, I was a little apprehensive not having worked on bikes before.

I found the job realy easy with the help of a Heynes manual, infact i was surprised how easy the job was. Just stick to the things you have listed.

I found it a lot easier by removing the callipers rather than struggel with them in position.

My next step is to change the oil`s, engine,gear box and final drive, Air filter and Plugs.

The price BMW gave me for doing this service inspired me to do it myself.

Good Luck.

03 1150 GSA

Only addition I would like to add..................... Put some Red rubber grease around the pistons diameter. This doesn't damage the rubber seals on the pistons, but still prevents them from picking up road crud. Apparently silicone grease does the same, but not used it myself.

Also put some of this grease into the rubber boots.


Too right that man

Tip one,

How long has it been since the Brake fluid was changed? Spossed to be changed every Two years. Do it after you have changed the pads when the pistons are right back in....

Tip Two

Do the front ones first cos you can look how the other one goes if you get stuck and if the worst happens you can still ride to the shop/mates if you need help.

Tip Three

Caps off the resorvoirs or you will not shove the pistons back in. Yes do it slowly and keep an eye on the fluid cos you dont want to splash it on your paintwork.

Tip Four

When you do the back one....take the slide right out and silicone grease the slides.....this will stop it siezing and wearing just one pad...Thats a top tip by the way.

Tip Five

Watch which way the rattle spring sits when you take the back brake to bits...steptoe had to post a picture to stop me going mad.....and it cost me a pint....

Good luck....BB

Damn, really useful information here. Thanks folks.

Oh yeah, one thing - Put some Red rubber grease around the pistons diameter - does that mean round the sides of the piston (i.e. circumference) as opposed to across the face?

Oh yeah, one thing - Put some Red rubber grease around the pistons diameter - does that mean round the sides of the piston (i.e. circumference) as opposed to across the face?

Click to expand...

Circumference - but it's not easy to do. I tried it once and haven't bothered since as it's very difficult to get any to actually stick well enough to the side wall to still be there when you try and push it back in again! Could just be me though...

It's interesting that this year has been the first winter where I haven't had to clean my brakes on almost a weekly basis to stop them sticking. Maybe cos it's been so mild

Pluck