GS Ted
Guest
Ok thanks Greggers, that makes sense 
► Clutch drag, slip and faults
- Thread starter Koopz
- Start date
Sooty09
Registered user
I find too much slack causes poor feel and sloppy gear changing. I set it cold with a bit of slack and then with the engine at full operating temperature I check the clevis on the operating lever above the clutch is still slack. Just push the cable with your thumb while at traffic lights, it should move easily and allow the arm to move a fraction. Sadly if its too tight there is nothing in the tool kit to adjust it and BMW saw fit to remove the adjusters form the levers (Why when every other manufacturer has them????? yet another 0/10 score)
I still love this bike though, 18000 trouble free miles this year is the most I have done in 34 years of riding.
I still love this bike though, 18000 trouble free miles this year is the most I have done in 34 years of riding.
sijohnston
Registered user
Replacing clutch
As some of you may know, I'm on a bit of a jaunt at the moment (see the link at the bottom) and have just arrived in Moscow on the trans-siberian as my clutch went when I was 70 miles out of Irkutsk on the way to Moscow. I had a new one shipped from Hursts Motorrad in NI 5 days ago and it still hasn't arrived at the address I've arranged for it to be posted to (Parcelforce world priority is allegedly 2 days, but Russian customs are not a fun place for parts). Anyway, I've heard that the clutch on an 800 is easy to get at...does this mean that it's easy to replace too? I'm not the most mechanically orientated, but I've got a tool kit with me which should cope with it. If anyone cares to give me a blow by blow account on what to do at the station once the clutch arrives, I'd be grateful. Or do I pay the horrendous Moscow prices for a mechanic?
Thanks in anticipation,
S
As some of you may know, I'm on a bit of a jaunt at the moment (see the link at the bottom) and have just arrived in Moscow on the trans-siberian as my clutch went when I was 70 miles out of Irkutsk on the way to Moscow. I had a new one shipped from Hursts Motorrad in NI 5 days ago and it still hasn't arrived at the address I've arranged for it to be posted to (Parcelforce world priority is allegedly 2 days, but Russian customs are not a fun place for parts). Anyway, I've heard that the clutch on an 800 is easy to get at...does this mean that it's easy to replace too? I'm not the most mechanically orientated, but I've got a tool kit with me which should cope with it. If anyone cares to give me a blow by blow account on what to do at the station once the clutch arrives, I'd be grateful. Or do I pay the horrendous Moscow prices for a mechanic?
Thanks in anticipation,
S
zippygser
Registered user
Hi there Si, please do not pay the overpriced charges, this is definately a job you could do yourself.
The clutch is easy to get to yes, and easy to remove and replace, you could even reuse the gasket if not broken or make your own one using a kellogs cereal box. see the attached pdf's below
View attachment f800gs_replace_disks 1.pdf
View attachment f800gs_replace_disks 2.pdf
View attachment f800gs_replace_disks 3.pdf
View attachment f800gs_replace_disks 4.pdf
Dont forget to soak the new clutches in engine oil
We leave on our trip to SA in 2 weeks and i will also be replacing my clutch before then
By the way, just for interest, using your clutch offroad really shortens its life as you may well guess.
The BMW offroad school change clutches on their F800GS every 2 months as they never see past 2nd gear
The easy way to check if your clutch is nearly finished is check how much thread is still left on the clutch cable, see pic below.
The clutch is easy to get to yes, and easy to remove and replace, you could even reuse the gasket if not broken or make your own one using a kellogs cereal box. see the attached pdf's below
View attachment f800gs_replace_disks 1.pdf
View attachment f800gs_replace_disks 2.pdf
View attachment f800gs_replace_disks 3.pdf
View attachment f800gs_replace_disks 4.pdf
Dont forget to soak the new clutches in engine oil
We leave on our trip to SA in 2 weeks and i will also be replacing my clutch before then
By the way, just for interest, using your clutch offroad really shortens its life as you may well guess.
The BMW offroad school change clutches on their F800GS every 2 months as they never see past 2nd gear
The easy way to check if your clutch is nearly finished is check how much thread is still left on the clutch cable, see pic below.
this may or may not help;
it's a link to a generic 'one size fits all' maintenance page, should give you some idea of what's involved.
http://www.dansmc.com/clutches.htm
should be a straightforward job.
fiddly, maybe, but not rocket science.
basically out with the old / in with the new.
certainly a lot easier than a 'dry' clutch.
Good Luck.
it's a link to a generic 'one size fits all' maintenance page, should give you some idea of what's involved.
http://www.dansmc.com/clutches.htm
should be a straightforward job.
fiddly, maybe, but not rocket science.
basically out with the old / in with the new.
certainly a lot easier than a 'dry' clutch.
Good Luck.
Also very good youtube video:
Just be aware that the F800GS clutch is not exactly as in the video above, but it gives you a good idea how easy it can be. The BMW clutch starts with a steel, instead of a friction plate, the first and last friction plates are also 1mm thinner than the inner plates. I guess if you just check exactly how the old ones come out, then put the new ones in the same order.
<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/br63PLcq3sU?fs=1&hl=en_GB"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/br63PLcq3sU?fs=1&hl=en_GB" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>
Just be aware that the F800GS clutch is not exactly as in the video above, but it gives you a good idea how easy it can be. The BMW clutch starts with a steel, instead of a friction plate, the first and last friction plates are also 1mm thinner than the inner plates. I guess if you just check exactly how the old ones come out, then put the new ones in the same order.
GS Ted
Guest
Ok thanks sooty, will set the clutch up as you say, it sounds good to me . I have it set with a little too much slack at the moment and like you say the feel is poor. I will just keep my eye on the adjustment as it seems quite critical. I will try for minimum slack ensuring clutch is engaging fully and not slipping because the cable is tight and checking the clutch fully disengages by checking it with the bike on centre stand, in gear and whether the back wheel rotates with the clutch lever pulled in.
Cheers Ted.
. I have it set with a little too much slack at the moment and like you say the feel is poor. I will just keep my eye on the adjustment as it seems quite critical. I will try for minimum slack ensuring clutch is engaging fully and not slipping because the cable is tight and checking the clutch fully disengages by checking it with the bike on centre stand, in gear and whether the back wheel rotates with the clutch lever pulled in.Cheers Ted.
zippygser
Registered user
also ensure you set you clutch cable when at full lock to the left, ie where the bikes steering lock engages, as this takes up most of the slack.
Dean
Registered user
Sorry to hear about your clutch Si, hope your on your way again soon
Your link is a great read
http://www.awayfromhere.org no adventure without Drama
GS Ted
Guest
Good point zippygser. Will do
sijohnston
Registered user
thanks!
thanks for your help guys. in preparation for the new clutch arriving, i stripped everything down and found that the main nut behind the clutch plates had come off. I took the clutch apart and checked if it had been burned up. Certainly there were signs of heat, but after 35,000kms with a significant amount of that in heavy off-road low gear conditions, it's still in very good order. i think my new clutch will arrive tomorrow, but if not, i'm still going to hit the road and will pick up the clutch next time i'm in Moscow, or have it posted back.
thought i'd keep you posted.
cheers,
s
thanks for your help guys. in preparation for the new clutch arriving, i stripped everything down and found that the main nut behind the clutch plates had come off. I took the clutch apart and checked if it had been burned up. Certainly there were signs of heat, but after 35,000kms with a significant amount of that in heavy off-road low gear conditions, it's still in very good order. i think my new clutch will arrive tomorrow, but if not, i'm still going to hit the road and will pick up the clutch next time i'm in Moscow, or have it posted back.
thought i'd keep you posted.
cheers,
s
Dave Ett
Registered user
Interesting, as mine had a similar (if not the same) problem a couple of months back. The nut had fallen into the gearbox and trashed a few other things in there.
Symptoms were the clutch not re-engaging when the clutch lever was released.
Just had it in again now as the shift lever was sticking, and they've replaced the shift fork.
Not hugely confident it's going to be ok from now on, though I admit it's had a hard life up to now (16,000 miles)
F800 clutch worn 
Noticed whilst riding home last night that rapid acceleration at about 5,500rpm would cause the clutch to slip. Went to adjust it today and discovered that the cable was already at the end of it's adjustment and there was no free play left at the lever
Called NOG and they agreed it was most likely a worn clutch and are going to come and pick it up for replacement. It's an '09 bike and it's done 14,000 miles.
Searching the forum it looks like a couple of others have seen the same issue, so at least I'm not alone.
Can't think of anything else it would be, but to save embarrassment is there anything else I could check?
David.
Noticed whilst riding home last night that rapid acceleration at about 5,500rpm would cause the clutch to slip. Went to adjust it today and discovered that the cable was already at the end of it's adjustment and there was no free play left at the lever
Called NOG and they agreed it was most likely a worn clutch and are going to come and pick it up for replacement. It's an '09 bike and it's done 14,000 miles.
Searching the forum it looks like a couple of others have seen the same issue, so at least I'm not alone.
Can't think of anything else it would be, but to save embarrassment is there anything else I could check?
David.
Greggers
Registered user
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2008
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Try the adjuster down on the LHS of the engine block, by the actuating lever.
IIRC there was an issue with BMW not leaving enough slack there. In any event it's worth a try, just be sure to have at least 5mm slack lever travel when you're done...
Cheers
Greg
IIRC there was an issue with BMW not leaving enough slack there. In any event it's worth a try, just be sure to have at least 5mm slack lever travel when you're done...
Cheers
Greg
Cheers Greg,
That adjuster, as far as I know, is the only one there is on the F800. The adjuster at the lever is just for the lever position. In any case - the LHS one is the one that's set at it's max slack and is still too tight with no free play.
Malcolm Leick
Registered user
Presumably they will do the work under the warranty? My clutch went at about 23K and I had to pay for it.
After they fitted the new clutch I didn't notice there was zero adjustment left on the cable and set off the day next on a 7000 mile three week trip. By the time I got back I was struggling to find neutral and the gear change was awful. They took a look and said that there was a particular washer or nut or something which they had left out when they fitted the clutch because the instructions told them it wasn't required on the 650 twin. (Greggers - can you throw any light on my mechanical ignorance here?)
They reopened the clutch, inserted the missing bit, and it has been dead smooth since then with plenty of adjustment on the cable. They didn't charge for this but I'm worried that the 7000 miles without this bit may have worn the new clutch plate. I didn't have any slipping at the time, and it seems ok at the mo. I'll see how long it lasts.
I didn't make an issue of it because I used an extended clutch cable when I fitted 2" risers on the bars. I assumed that the non-standard cable may have thrown them when they fitted the clutch. It's odd that they didn't mention there was no adjustment left before I set off.
They recently fitted new head bearings and managed to screw that one up too. I took it back three times complaining of movement in the steering column. Eventually they spotted that the edge of the wire cable guide on the steering head had got caught up when they tightened up the system. They reckoned it was on upside down, possibly since it left the factory. Why didn't they notice this when they first replaced the bearings??? They assured me that they had taken out the new bearings and checked for damage before putting things back together again correctly. All fine now.
I'm starting to lose faith here and might take the bike up to Rainbow in Rotherham. It's an hour away, so I'm annoyed I can't rely on my local dealer. Am I being too picky??
After they fitted the new clutch I didn't notice there was zero adjustment left on the cable and set off the day next on a 7000 mile three week trip. By the time I got back I was struggling to find neutral and the gear change was awful. They took a look and said that there was a particular washer or nut or something which they had left out when they fitted the clutch because the instructions told them it wasn't required on the 650 twin. (Greggers - can you throw any light on my mechanical ignorance here?)
They reopened the clutch, inserted the missing bit, and it has been dead smooth since then with plenty of adjustment on the cable. They didn't charge for this but I'm worried that the 7000 miles without this bit may have worn the new clutch plate. I didn't have any slipping at the time, and it seems ok at the mo. I'll see how long it lasts.
I didn't make an issue of it because I used an extended clutch cable when I fitted 2" risers on the bars. I assumed that the non-standard cable may have thrown them when they fitted the clutch. It's odd that they didn't mention there was no adjustment left before I set off.
They recently fitted new head bearings and managed to screw that one up too. I took it back three times complaining of movement in the steering column. Eventually they spotted that the edge of the wire cable guide on the steering head had got caught up when they tightened up the system. They reckoned it was on upside down, possibly since it left the factory. Why didn't they notice this when they first replaced the bearings??? They assured me that they had taken out the new bearings and checked for damage before putting things back together again correctly. All fine now.
I'm starting to lose faith here and might take the bike up to Rainbow in Rotherham. It's an hour away, so I'm annoyed I can't rely on my local dealer. Am I being too picky??
Greggers
Registered user
- Joined
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Well, I've not had the clutch apart on mine .... yet!
No problems either.
I've just looked at my adjuster (having imagined the 'secondary' lever adjustment
) and mine's right in the middle, roughly the same number of threads showing top and bottom. The bike's done 15k, 13 of which are mine. I'm not gentle with it and have ridden it how it was designed to be - the adjustment's never changed!
I can't access my manual just at the moment but will have a look at it when I can to see if anything springs to mind - I recall a thread a while back which went into the details of the actuating mechanism, it might be worth a look...
G
No problems either.
I've just looked at my adjuster (having imagined the 'secondary' lever adjustment
) and mine's right in the middle, roughly the same number of threads showing top and bottom. The bike's done 15k, 13 of which are mine. I'm not gentle with it and have ridden it how it was designed to be - the adjustment's never changed!I can't access my manual just at the moment but will have a look at it when I can to see if anything springs to mind - I recall a thread a while back which went into the details of the actuating mechanism, it might be worth a look...
G
David
What oil are you using? (serious question!)
Greg
What oil are you using? (serious question!)
Greg
