Further to my posts above ... in reality I didn't really need to remove the battery, air box and the whole caboodle, it didn't actually make access any better.... I thought it might have done.... but I ended up doing the whole work from 'below' in the end
Side panels off

Bash plate/engine bars off

Radiator bottom mounts off, just enough room then to move it forward a little
Access is knuckle grazing finger wrenching

Probably better off removing all the mounts for the rad, maybe more movement available then

Just be careful... I undid the small screw and nut at the bottom center of the radiator, dunno if you have to, but I did. A small piece of fancy plastic cowling dropped out... took me five minutes to trace where it came from, but soon becomes apparant... just below the fan housing

10mm ring spanner fits the manifold nuts but you only have about 5 degrees of arc to play with

Small 1/4" socket set with fine ratchet required
The studs came out of the head with the nuts firmly seized on ... I left 'em like this, replaced as they came out with copperslip on the threads
Be very careful on assembly you don't get them cross threaded... you're working blind and by feel
Good luck
