► Lights, indicators, electrics and alarm

Hi guys,

I want to fit some aux lighting to my 650 gs but want want to do it on the cheap. Im talking B and Q brackets kinda job but what lights would people suggest?

Also what set up would people suggest? One wired into the dip beam and one weird to the main?

Cheers, :beerjug:
 
Sounds like my setup!

Two spotlights from Halfords, two brackets from B&Q.

Lamps screwed to brackets screwed to headlamp bolts.

Wiring through a relay and an extra switch on the left bar. I have them set up to work like dipped beam lights, so that when you go to full beam you can actually see up the road. They fill in the gap the dipped beam leaves when the headlamp unit is aimed to give decent full beam coverage.
 
Not sure the accessory socket would be up to it. Best way is via a relay, using something like the existing sidelight power to switch them on and off.
 
That was my prefered option, it just getting to the sidelight wiring?

Excuse my stupidity, I take it a relay allows you to be able to switch it off?

First time playing with the electrics!

Cheers, :beerjug:
 
The relay means you draw almost no extra power from the 'source' meaning you're not trying to get another 15 amps down a wire not designed to handle it. Fires usually ensue if you try that!

You can add a separate switch to the earth wire of the relay, meaning that the aux lights would need two things to happen before they come on: The power from the sidelight AND the earth line back to chassis. This means you can turn them on and off independently, but they will always go off with the ignition.
 
Power issue

Hi all,

I know this thread is mostly about aux lights, but my issue is somewhat related.

Yesterday morning when I try to start the bike, there was nothing in the battery . Jump started it and all was fine. Starting it up after work was no issue either.

Now I have the following bits which draws current:

1) autocom.
2) autocom bluetooth dongle.

Both are connected to the same wire that goes to the aux input at the top - so it cuts out after a min or so when switching off the ignition.

I have been running this setup for about two weeks or so now, with no issues. The problem I think came when I use the heated grips as well.

So I guess I have 2 questions here:
1) Does the bike generate enough power to support all my stuff?
2) Is it ok for it to be connected straight off the aux input?
 
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free fitting
cheers adventurebikewarehouse
 
Hi all,

I know this thread is mostly about aux lights, but my issue is somewhat related.

Yesterday morning when I try to start the bike, there was nothing in the battery . Jump started it and all was fine. Starting it up after work was no issue either.

Now I have the following bits which draws current:

1) autocom.
2) autocom bluetooth dongle.

Both are connected to the same wire that goes to the aux input at the top - so it cuts out after a min or so when switching off the ignition.

I have been running this setup for about two weeks or so now, with no issues. The problem I think came when I use the heated grips as well.

So I guess I have 2 questions here:
1) Does the bike generate enough power to support all my stuff?
2) Is it ok for it to be connected straight off the aux input?

It definitely makes enough power, I run the heated grips, heated jacket, spotlights, GPS and autocom on mine with no problems.

I suspect your problem will be the autocom. It is meant to switch off when you disconnect the rider headset, but I find it doesn't, and will drain the battery.

I know the aux socket is meant to switch off after a few minutes, but it will stay on under certain conditions - like having the BMW charger plugged in. It may be that the autocom is fooling the system into leaving the socket on.

Best answer is to fit a seperate switch into the powerline...
 
It definitely makes enough power, I run the heated grips, heated jacket, spotlights, GPS and autocom on mine with no problems.

I suspect your problem will be the autocom. It is meant to switch off when you disconnect the rider headset, but I find it doesn't, and will drain the battery.

I know the aux socket is meant to switch off after a few minutes, but it will stay on under certain conditions - like having the BMW charger plugged in. It may be that the autocom is fooling the system into leaving the socket on.

Best answer is to fit a seperate switch into the powerline...

Thanks - I'll check that out.
 
Awesome pics! Cheers!:) How did you wire them in?

With a couple of relays! I have a 'hidden' switch which powers a busbar through a relay, from which I run the spotlights, GPS, autocom etc. The lights themselves have a small switch on the left bar - I used silicon sealant to stick it to the side of the switch housing, and it's lasted a few thousand miles so far.

As for the actual wiring, take the positive from the busbar (battery) to the relay and on to the lights. I have fitted the switch into the earth line so that it only needs a wire to the switch, then earth, not all the way back to the battery.
 
Dimmable LEDs

Noone been farckling since 2010?

Have recently completed the addition of some LED flood lights with a dimmer. The aim was to add only one set of auxilliary lights for dipped and main beam with these four objectives:
1) improve nighttime vision over stock main beam which is pathetic on the F800 (2011)
2) improve the night time vision over stock dipped beam
3) improve daytime conspicuity
4) avoid having banks of monster lamps for different tasks

Clearwater in the US have a nice system using dimmable LEDs but very expensive ($600). LEDs can have their brightness altered by phase modulation - they flash at a rate that is not perceptible to the human eye, and the modulator increases/reduces the time interval between the flashes which creates the dimming effect.

I came across a supplier on ebay offering cheap powerful LEDs (3000 lumen each) with an optional remote controlled dimmer. http://2allbuyer.auctivacommerce.com/3000LM-Led-Light-x2-P3121582.aspx

There seem to be numerous suppliers of LEDs bit it is difficult comparing them and knowing for sure how bright and what sort of light pattern you will actually get. I went for cheap to experiment with - (£120 for lamps and dimmer).

The lamps arrived very quickly from HK, and a bench test showed they worked just as planned - switch between a user set dimmed level and full brightness. The problem was that I did not like the remote control, and the dimmer is a bit bulky and uses spring terminals. So I ditched them in favour of a switch controlled dimmer from Abel Electronics which is also smaller in size and uses screw terminals (£40).

This is what the lamps look like mounted on the rugged roads light bar.

a_lamp_zps71c2b170.jpg


There is a lot of wiring involved - I draw feeds from both dipped and main beam wires by tapping into the loom just behind the headlight socket. I used 0.5mm2 thin walled wire which is rated at 11amp - lamps are rated at 2.6 amp each. I have two waterproof connectors which allow the lamps to be removed, these are tied either side of the central cockpit subframe:

a_wiring2_zpsa94d1ade.jpg


I have two switches mounted on a bracket on the handlebars: master on/off and a momentary on/off/on switch to control the dimmer and an led tell tale light. The bracket is aluminium off a plasterers hawk and a maplins plastic project box:

a_switch_zps4b86949b.jpg


a_box_zps02987cdb.jpg


The dimmer and two relays and fuse are mounted under the battery cover, I have a mounting plate attached to the battery top holder. I have sculpted the holder to accommodate the mounting bolts and allow easy removal without having to disconnect the earth lead - to get at the air filter I have to take off the batter holder with the electronics attached:

a_controls4_zps26b77433.jpg


a_controls_zpsba113de8.jpg


The end results (all photos shot using identical exposure settings)

Stock dipped beam:

a_dip_zpsefe4ff67.jpg


Stock dipped beam + LEDs set to lowest dim setting (above this and oncoming vehicles tend to flash you. The photo suggests more light from the LEDs than the eye sees. Not sure why the photo gives a slightly orange tint:

a_dip_zpsa73a416e.jpg


Stock dipped and main beam:

a_main_zpsab6c2e1c.jpg


Stock dipped and main beam with LEDs on full brightness - impressive for pair of little lights and inspire confidence when night riding.

a_main_zps9f508dfd.jpg


Just to give you an idea of the relative brightness of the lamps from the front. Not the actual brightness as seen by the eye - note streetlamp - everything is actually much brighter. The left hand lamp is pointed to the left so not as bright from the front as the right hand one:

a_front_dip_zps45b45799.jpg

a_front_main_zps6884e2a1.jpg


Conclusion:

Objectives achieved except not any significant improvement to dipped beam without blinding oncoming vehicles. I am very happy with the results though.

There is little reason for having an infinitely variable dimming capability but you do need to be able to set your own level to match the way you mount the lamps and avoid dazzling.

These lights are not AP rated, have glass lens, and have insubstantial mounting hardware. They probably wont last long, that being said, met a guy at HUBB who had a pair mounted on a trip from Alaska to Ushuaia - only one cracked lens and he had to modify mounts.

Zen Overland sell a neat dimming device with 2-3 preset levels (not sure whether these are user defined or factory set). It is also has a very small footprint. Komy Kwan from HK says the next version of his LEDs will come with a dimmer incorporated in the lamps. But you still need relays with this level of power.

The technology and price/performance is changing fast for these components.
 
Think I'll fit a pair from the guy in HK to the Hede engine bars on my F650GS but go for the 1600LM ones (http://2allbuyer.auctivacommerce.com/1600LM-Cree-Led-Light-x2-P3121417.aspx. The whole kit, inc post to UK, works out at around £95 and there's lot's of useful info on the site for fitting it. I'll also take the time to add in a fuseblock with ignition/relay plus direct-from-battery channels to tidy up the GPS and under-seat power supplies.

Just for comparison I totalled putting together a similar kit sourced from Amazon/Ebay and it came in at £85 (£55 for lights, £30 for parts).
 


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