► Maintenance, servicing, tools, torque settings

[everywherevirtually]

12000 mile service for the F800

I'm coming up to 11000 miles and I'm about to embark on a 5000 mile trip. I've looked at other threads related to servicing costs and some people were quoting £500. That's silly money and I can't afford anywhere near that so close to the trip so I wondered if any of you tossers have any advice.

I think the F800GS is too new for a haynes manual but I essentially need to change the brake pads, TKC's I'll be putting on at the weekend. Oil will need to be changed and oil filter and that just leaves brake fluid and perhaps a check of the ABS fluid? It's the critical fluid changes that I want to get right first time.

I'm sure its dead easy once you've done it but you know how it is first time round.

thanks in advance

Jon

 

[Mr. Pete]

If it were me I would change the oil/filter...check air filter....make sure it is clean...and drive it. The rotax motor is bullet proof. Make sure that you have VERY good tires. Have a nice trip.

 

[John Armstrong]

Thought about one of the independant servicing people. One name I can think of is RGM, he seems to have the kit to do the oil and hex head GS's and I can't see the 800 being that different.

One other thought, have you had a look to see if there's any info on the 800 ST as apart from some obvious changes, it must have a number of similarities

 

[sijohnston]

I'm coming up to 11000 miles and I'm about to embark on a 5000 mile trip. I've looked at other threads related to servicing costs and some people were quoting £500. That's silly money and I can't afford anywhere near that so close to the trip so I wondered if any of you tossers have any advice.

I think the F800GS is too new for a haynes manual but I essentially need to change the brake pads, TKC's I'll be putting on at the weekend. Oil will need to be changed and oil filter and that just leaves brake fluid and perhaps a check of the ABS fluid? It's the critical fluid changes that I want to get right first time.

I'm sure its dead easy once you've done it but you know how it is first time round.

thanks in advance

Jon

had my 12000 done several weeks ago: £140 all in. It's no difference in price to the 6k service according to Hurst's. I'd go and get it done at a dealer as you're heading off on a big trip.
Enjoy

 

[everywherevirtually]

had my 12000 done several weeks ago: £140 all in. It's no difference in price to the 6k service according to Hurst's. I'd go and get it done at a dealer as you're heading off on a big trip.
Enjoy

Now that doesn't sound so bad. By the time I've bought the tools, the parts and my time I'm not far off that price.

 

[Wookie]

I'm about to embark on a 5000 mile trip

Damn jealous of you, could really do with a nice long trip atm .... Where are you off to ? Somewhere hot and sunny or keeping to the frozen areas?

 

[everywherevirtually]

Damn jealous of you, could really do with a nice long trip atm .... Where are you off to ? Somewhere hot and sunny or keeping to the frozen areas?

from Cheshire to the Touratech Travel Event. Then on down to the Alps and Italy. Across to Croatia, Montenegro, Macedonia, Albania, Greece, Bulgaria, Kosovo, Serbia, Romania, Moldova, Hungary, Slovakia, Poland, Czech Republic, Germany and if time and money stretch Denmark and Sweden. Got family in Austria and Sweden and friends in Slovakia so have a few pit stops along the way.

Incidentally. My local dealer quoted me £195 all in for parts and labour.

 

[Whele]

Whilst servicing your bike, remove the steel band from the front fork leg (secures the brake lines) and check for corrosion under the band, maybe adding some copperslip grease when replacing the band to reduce the steel / aliminium / salt water corrosion effects.

I changed Catherines brake lines on Saturday and when removing the steel band the fork leg is very badly corroded underneath. I beleive she has spoken to NOG about replacing the leg as the band is no longer required for the new lines.

 

[everywherevirtually]

Whilst servicing your bike, remove the steel band from the front fork leg (secures the brake lines) and check for corrosion under the band, maybe adding some copperslip grease when replacing the band to reduce the steel / aliminium / salt water corrosion effects.

I changed Catherines brake lines on Saturday and when removing the steel band the fork leg is very badly corroded underneath. I beleive she has spoken to NOG about replacing the leg as the band is no longer required for the new lines.

Yeah I removed mine recently when adding my fork seals from Kriega. Just wanted to clean the area. Managed to arrest the corrosion in time and liberally sprayed it with ACF-50

 

[John Armstrong]

My local dealer quoted me £195 all in for parts and labour.

Out of interest, how much was the 6k service?

 

[Marty Hill]

Maintenance sked for 800GS?

Has BMW posted the maintenance sked pages for the 800GS? The pages that list what the BMW shop checks/performs at first and later services.

Thank you,

 

[Aretsukusu]

Out of interest, how much was the 6k service?

Just done mine at Bahnstormer, £128.00 + the recall on the tophose at the same time.

 

[John Armstrong]

Just done mine at Bahnstormer, £128.00 + the recall on the tophose at the same time.

Thanks, both seem cheaper than the boxer, which is puzzling me

 

[mark2jag]

Oil confusion........

Long boring story which I will spare you for fear of you falling asleep but had a conversation with BMW today regards oil in a 800GS. Bmw assert that I need 10w40 FULLY synthetic Oil. Vines assert that this isnt correct and I need PART synthetic 10w40!!. Whos correct, whos not been paying attention and is the missing link, goodbye,lol. Also somewhat surprised that I have gone from full oil level to on the point of being just under the LOW mark on the dipstick in 250 miles.
Also am I checking this with the dipstick tube screwed all the way back in or resting on the top of the filler hole.
First person to admit I'm not what you might call the sharpest tool in the box, but if anyone knows I'd really apprecaite their input. Also noticed its tapping at low engine speed, but I sort of think that may be as a direct result of low oil, anyone care to enlighten me or comment?????

Over to you, all then..........

 

[fishburger]

Hi
I have used the Castrol gps 10-40 Semi Synt,on my bikes both the f800 and the f800gs,thats what Bmw recommend in Norway.
I have also used the Castrol Full synt ,the R1 for 5000km once,the reason I went back to semy synt is the prize of the full synt oil,more expencive than a bottle of vodka in Norway,and it is "over the top" when it comes to normal riding.
My bikes have never used any oil between changes (5000-6000km) when using the 10-40 gps semi synt.
Check the level on the dip stick 5-10minutes after you have stopped the engine
the oil takes some minutes to return to the sump resevoir.
fishburger

 

[John Armstrong]

IIRC dipstick is unscrewed, cleaned and then placed onto the hole. That is, don't screw it in.

Page 130 of my 650 manual:

Engine oil, 10W-40

Oil grades Mineral oils of API classification SF through SH.
BMW Motorrad recommends not using oil additives,
because they can have a detrimental effect
on clutch operation. Please do not hesitate to
contact your authorised BMW Motorrad dealer
if you have any questions relating the choice of a
suitable engine oil for your motorcycle.

 

[Tengiz99]

When I asked for oil at my dealers he handed me a bottle of the castrol 4T 20W-50. Not used any yet mind you.

 

[Wookie]

Best rule of thumb is
- SEMI Syn for the road/off road
- FULL Syn for the race track.

There is no need for using fully synthetic on the road, it was designed for track use only.

 

[Emmbeedee]

Best rule of thumb is
- SEMI Syn for the road/off road
- FULL Syn for the race track.

There is no need for using fully synthetic on the road, it was designed for track use only.

Except for modern Ducatis - full synthetic is required according to the owners handbook. Those Desmo cams need all the lube they can get.

 

[nikp]

Oil confusion

I'm glad someone has started this one as I've been pondering over choice of oil for a couple of weeks now.

My question is, if for example the dealer has used a fully synthertic and I top up with semi synthetic, then is this bad, good or indifferent?