1100 clutch is is knackerd?

  • Thread starter Thread starter harrisn
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harrisn

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just back from a little ride out this morning and my clutch feels like it is slipping, its fine on take off and 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear seem fine even under hard accelaration but once above about 50 in 4th it feels like its slipping.

Am i right? surely it would slip in all gears wouldnt it? could it be something else, heard so many bad stories about gearbox's etc am worried it could be major.

Its a 98/99 1100 with just under 60k on it

Also if it is just the clutch how easy is it to replace it, am a competent mechanic but have never worked on BMW engines before (all old harleys and jap 4's) and anyone know what the price difference would be between DIY and a independent (Steptoe for instance)

Thanks all
 
I can tell you a dealer quoted me £800 :eek:

Mine hasn't shown signs of slipping so I think I've been worrying about nothing Last time the bike was in the dealers they were telling me GS clutches go at 50-60k & mine had just done 54k so I've spent the last 6k miles having a bit of a panic.

Touch wood etc...:augie
 
I think you should have to check the clearance/freeplay at the gearbox end.
 
no free play in the lever or cable at the garbox end or at the bars, have just wound in the adjuster a bit as it seemed a bit to tight, only two or three turns and the cabe is still taught so will see if that makes a difference.

I take it from the above that it doesnt sound like the clutch is going? more of an adjustment thing?
 
hi i had a r1100rt and had to replace the clutch around 25k miles the fault condition was exactly as you describe it lower gears were fine but 4th & 5th showed the problem.i had a dealer quote of £500 but maybe be higher once they stripped bike down depending if the gear box seal needed replacing and if other parts were required.i found a local retired ex-police mechanic he did the job. i asked him if it was a common problem and he said he had replaced dozens of clutches on bmw,s.some lasted 50 k miles some 10k miles.

petea
 
hi i had a r1100rt and had to replace the clutch around 25k miles the fault condition was exactly as you describe it lower gears were fine but 4th & 5th showed the problem.i had a dealer quote of £500 but maybe be higher once they stripped bike down depending if the gear box seal needed replacing and if other parts were required.i found a local retired ex-police mechanic he did the job. i asked him if it was a common problem and he said he had replaced dozens of clutches on bmw,s.some lasted 50 k miles some 10k miles.

petea

its still working fine :thumb
 
I've always set the adjuster at the handle bar so 12mm of thread is exposed. I then, using the srcew behind the gearbox, set the free play at the handlebar to 7mm.
 
thanks all, will try the above mentined adjustments and see how i get on, when you say free play do you mean in the cable or the lever be it clutch end or bar end,

again thaks for the advice much appreciated.

PS think its about time i got myself a service book, anyone recomend one? are the CD ones you can buy on ebay ok? have a 1150 one but obviously there are some differences
 
thanks all, will try the above mentined adjustments and see how i get on, when you say free play do you mean in the cable or the lever be it clutch end or bar end,

again thaks for the advice much appreciated.

PS think its about time i got myself a service book, anyone recomend one? are the CD ones you can buy on ebay ok? have a 1150 one but obviously there are some differences
hi i still have the haynes manual from my 1100rt which covers the gs and a bmw 1100manual on cd if you send me your address i will post them to you.they are no use to me anymore.There must be free play at both adjusters to check if you pull the clutch in gently till it takes up the slack in the cable then measure the gap between the clutch lever blade and its stock(the bit the clutch lever rests against when its not pulled in) it should be about 7mm if not you have to carryout the freeplay adjustment procedure
petea
petea
 
check the clutch fork pivot give it a good doing with wd 40 or the likes at the pivot the pivot catches all the crud from the back wheel and starts to size up when you pull the clutch it dosen't go fully back then starts slipping just like a nackerd clutch had the same fault on my 1100 and thats what it was did 3000 miles in Franse shortly after that still going strong
hope this helps
 
Thanks all for the resonses, played around with it last night and a combination of all of the above advice has sorted it! the lever was indeed coated in crud, cleaned and lubbed, then adjusted the lever at both ends as above and this morning its like riding a different bike!
 


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