1100 head skim?

Matt - that's exactly the area where the problem area was on my cylinder head. It's surprising how little the distortion needs to be to cause a weep.
 
Matt - that's exactly the area where the problem area was on my cylinder head. It's surprising how little the distortion needs to be to cause a weep.

:thumb2 I found your thread about your cylinder head issue - I can only think mine must have run hot at some point (when I bought it a couple of months ago, I discovered a missing vac point bung on the left hand throttle body - possibly ran lean and hot :nenau )

cheers
M
 
Mmm, shiny:

3195988085_fd52d9b2a6_o.jpg


just got my freshly skimmed head back from the engineers, so that'l be me in the garage tonight ;)

Only thing is they had to remove the inlet valves to skim it, (worried about touching them with the tool) which entailed removing the cam carrier / rocker assembly. When they bolted it back together, the cam was no longer at TDC (exhaust valves slightly open), so the sprocket key won't line up with the camshaft slot.

Anyone (Steptoe?) know how I can turn the camshaft to return it to the correct position?

Edit:
I think I've worked it out for myself :rolleyes: :

Unbolt the cam carrier
Do the rubber band thing around the rockers
Spin the cam to the correct position
Refit cam carrier
Refit head

Before I jump in with spanners, is that right?

ta
Matt
 
Anyone (Steptoe?) know how I can turn the camshaft to return it to the correct position?

Edit:
I think I've worked it out for myself :rolleyes: :

Unbolt the cam carrier
Do the rubber band thing around the rockers
Spin the cam to the correct position
Refit cam carrier
Refit head

The above worked (apart from the feckin' Clymer manual being wrong about which bolts fasten the cam carrier to the head - misses two out).

Head back on and torqued, just need to do the valve clearances and torque up the camshaft bolt when SWMBO is home to stand on the brake pedal.
 
Always nice when it starts and runs with no horrid noises :rolleyes:

Test ride as soon as I can get out on it when it's dry and daylight. If it still leaks, expect to see an 1100 shaped fire in Warrington (just filled up too, should burn quite nicely...)
 
Always nice when it starts and runs with no horrid noises :rolleyes:

Test ride as soon as I can get out on it when it's dry and daylight. If it still leaks, expect to see an 1100 shaped fire in Warrington (just filled up too, should burn quite nicely...)

P.M.A.....
 
Positive mental attitude, is a psychological term which describes a mental phenomenon in which the central idea is that one can increase achievement through optimistic thought processes.
 
Gotcha :)

I have a positive attitude to this, just getting slightly bored of removing and refitting the head :D I've run out of gaskets now, if I've got to do it again I'll be making Mr Motorworks a bit richer.

Still, on the plus side I'm learning plenty about how our old tractors are put together...
 
Matt,

Hope it goes ok for you this time. Before Xmas I did the head gaskets on my 1100. A 20 mile test ride showed up no more leaks. Were your leaks immediately apparent when testing it after you first fixed it, or did they appear later on? (I just wonder if mine will start leaking again when I use it a bit more).

Also, about a year ago I did the rocker shaft clearance adjustment. In doing this I loosened the relevant allen bolts and one of the four main head bolts. I do wonder if this is what can cause the head to distort, hence the leak.

Does anyone knowledgeable care to comment on this? Steptoe?
 
Matt,

Hope it goes ok for you this time. Before Xmas I did the head gaskets on my 1100. A 20 mile test ride showed up no more leaks. Were your leaks immediately apparent when testing it after you first fixed it, or did they appear later on? (I just wonder if mine will start leaking again when I use it a bit more).

Also, about a year ago I did the rocker shaft clearance adjustment. In doing this I loosened the relevant allen bolts and one of the four main head bolts. I do wonder if this is what can cause the head to distort, hence the leak.

Does anyone knowledgeable care to comment on this? Steptoe?

Hi Trullion,

My leak showed up immediately - same leak, same location.
I'm hoping that having found a slightly warped head (subsequently confirmed by the engineers who surface ground it), I'll have cured it. I wish I'd thought to check the head for flatness when I changed the gasket first time round - it'd have saved a fair bit of time and expense, however I was seduced by the 'well known' problem with the original pattern head gaskets :rolleyes: - live and learn :D
Seeing the new triple layer metal gasket, I'm not surprised that a very minor warp could cause a leak - there's very little 'compliance' in the gasket.

With your heads, I'd be very surprised if yours started to leak at a later date given that it tested ok after your gasket change. Were your original gaskets the old 'fibre' type?

As far as the rocker shaft endplay procedure causing a subsequent leak - I guess it's a possibility given documented weakness of the old pattern gasket (I wouldn't have thought it'd distort the head though - more likely it locally 'unsticks' the gasket?). I believe it's usually overheating which causes head distortion?
 
he he...sounding good matt

gone from 'how do i' to 'this is how you.....'

it's a painfull expensive experience m8

but knowldge aint cheap

it cleaned me out a life time ago and i still know fek all :blast

You should start a forum section called 'What i learned today' so you can save others the misforune of getting it wrong before they get it right

My first ( of many )contribution would go something like

' Never plan to get up early and bleed your brakes or change pads before going for a ride out, do it the day before, it will take less than an hour.
If you do it on the morning of the ride there will be no ride'

Good luck with the test run dude,

clear skies:thumb2
 
Just been for a quick spin...

NO BLEEDIN' LEAK! :hapybnce:

Thanks everyone for all the guidance, advice and counselling :rolleyes:

Matt
 
Excellent news Matt; glad you've sorted it. The gaskets I got for my 1100 were multi-layer ones (black); the ones I replaced looked like single layer aluminium. My bike (a 96) has done about 24,500 miles. I got a load of old mots, service bills etc with it. The latter don't include anything about head gasket replacement, so my guess is that they are original (both former owners had it dealer serviced).

Fingers crossed that they won't now leak. By the way, do you need to re-torque the head bolts after 500 miles?

Cheers.
 
By the way, do you need to re-torque the head bolts after 500 miles?

I think the 600 mile retorque is to take care of stretch in new studs and as I didn't change the studs I probably won't bother. Of course I might be barking up completely the wrong tree!
 
Yeah, that's my thinking too. I bet if I re-torque them the head gasket will probably start leaking..................
 


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