1150 Firing on one cylinder!

Are the valves opening?
Would hate you to find this:
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swap round the plug coil packs Mike......see if the problem changes sides :)
Next step Bill. :thumb2 (Ocean have a coil for me to borrow to save actually swapping. Good place that).

Bike is at my place of work so it will have to wait a few days, plus I'm halfway through the loom swap on my mates 1100GS.
 
Right having spent the intervening period fitting a replacement loom to my mates 1100GS in time for him to set off to Paris tomorrow for the game, I have returned to trying to solve the problem on my own bike.

I have swapped the coils.

I have replaced the plugs.

I have had both injectors out and checked that they are squirting fuel.

I have checked that plugs are sparking.

Throttle cable runs are smooth and no kinks.

I have checked, re-checked and checked again anything that might remotely be a loose connection or fuel line.

All are fine.


The question in my mind now is the fuel pump.

It primes and sounds right when the ignition is switched on.

I have not been able to check the pump pressure as per the repair manual.

Is it possible that the pump pressure is too low?


I've been in to Ocean (Plymouth) and as usual they are extremely helpful but before I uplift the bike and deliver it to them, is there anything anyone can think of?

Could the single (always the left/nearside) cylinder firing be due to that one being served by the fuel distributor first or nearer and the pressure isn't enough to reach the offside one under demand?
 
Could the single (always the left/nearside) cylinder firing be due to that one being served by the fuel distributor first or nearer and the pressure isn't enough to reach the offside one under demand?


Quick test for establishing fuel pressure. Clamp/restrict the rubber fuel RETURN pipe ( obviously not the hard plastic pipe, it'll break) to the tank. DON'T clamp it fully closed, hard to explain, i know by experience , but you'll soon see what i mean.

By doing this, you'll be manually creating fuel pressure, rather than depending on the fuel pressure regulator. See if it improves how the injectors "squirt".

Also swop the injectors over and see if the problem moves with the injectors.

All these type of things i was going to do in my " On the road breakdown and fix workshop" last year. Never mind.
 
Also check that the injectors are getting a regular electrical pulse.

Disconnect the injector electrical plug, and attach a test bulb across the two terminals supplying the injector (you can get a test bulb specifically for doing this job, called a test noide, from most good car spare shops).

Turn the engine over on the starter and see if it flashes ( similar to a plug sparking).
 
Right, an update.

Did as Neil suggested, I even swapped the injectors from side to side.

Yesterday I fitted a section of clear hose in the fuel lines using spare QD connectors to physically watch the fuel being pumped through!

I got home all depressed and rang in to work to arrange to borrow the Spec-lift truck, admitting defeat and prepared to take the bike to Ocean.

Now the spooky bit.

I woke-up this morning at 4.00 having been dreaming about the throttle-cable run and specifically the cable on the offside.

I dreamt that I found that the cable wasn't seated properly just like Neil and others had suggested.

It was the first thing that I checked when the problem occurred (after replacing the fuel-line clips) and I have checked and rechecked both sides. God alone knows how many times I have checked that they were seated in the bodies correctly.

This morning I resisted the urge to go straight over to where the bike is and jumped on my 75, nipped in to work and drove away in the Spec-lift.

Before getting the bike out I thought I'd have another look at the cables.

The nearside one was okay and sat fully in the body.

So was the offside one.

For some reason I peered at the end that disappears into the splitter-box under the battery tray. It looked fine.

Then I looked again and saw what I can only describe as a dark and thin crescent beside the black cable sheath where it goes into the splitter-box.

Getting some long pliers I pushed the cable over and about an inch of the sleeve shot into the splitter-box! :blast

Even without trying the starter I knew that was the problem solved.

Sure enough, it fired-up and ran on both cylinders! :rolleyes:

I hadn't at any stage considered that the cable sleeve had or even could have pulled out from the splitter.:blast:blast:blast

What an absolute pillock! :o:o:o

I took the Spec back, big daft grin on my face and decided that I'm so happy to have the thing running again that I'd accept the piss-taking here and give everyone the opportunity to say "told you so."

I spent a happy few hours adjusting the valves, the TB's and generally just fettling things.

Right, I've braced myself for the comments, so let's get it over!

Oh. Just one thing, I will be putting a note book and pen beside my bed for the next few nights, just in case I dream of the winning Lottery numbers! ;)
 
Its a good bloke that will post his findings :thumb2 :clap
so that all us numpties who read these threads will say to ourselves " I must remember that one as well "
Everything seems so obvious, just after you find it !!!!
 
Nicely done, Mike! Gives me hope for my sudden poor cold idle problem!

...blast it being dark already, can't go to see about that cable...

Bohdan
 
I love the old sleep on it fault finding.

I guess we must subconciously work through all the options.

all I have to do now is to convince my boss that I am not in the land of nod

but actually trying to work out the reverse osmosis unit
 
it's because the L/H throttle controls the amount of fuel injected. The R/H is a slave.

Try pulling each throttle cable seperatly by hand. The L/H will rev the engine, the R/H will stall it.

I'VE BEEN SEARCHING FOR THAT INFO AND THIS THREAD FOR AGES. THANKS
 
Sounds like I've done exactly the same thing.

I had the tank propped up when fitting an autocom the other day. When i started it up today it was only unning on the lh pot. :blast
The autocom works ok though:rolleyes:

At least I hope this is what I've done.......

I'll find out tomorrow no doubt.:eek

Chris
 
Thank You Thank You Thank You

:thumb:thumb:thumb:thumb:thumb:thumb:thumb:bow:bow:bow:bow:bow:bowJust done exactly the same! Tank off fitted Tom Tom some QD hose thingies. Then aargh :blast:blast runs like like a bag of sh****. 3 days of head scratching and then 20mins on the site and 2 minutes in the garage.
I am a happy man again.

So as the title says thank you thank thank you.:thumb2:thumb2:thumb2:thumb2:thumb
 
Thank you Mike

Yes I know its an old thread - but this is the most worthwhile subscription I have. There is no way I would have found this without the forum and MikeP's re post with his solution - can we add this fix to the post entitled Why's My Bike Running Rough? A Common Fault in the info and tips locked post - Mods can you help please? Thank you Mike.
 
MikeP's re post with his solution - can we add this fix to the post entitled Why's My Bike Running Rough? A Common Fault in the info and tips locked post - Mods can you help please? Thank you Mike.

Why ? the "Why's my bike running rough" has all the info you need in the very first post.
Adding MikeP's post or any other post stating the very same would be just added on drivel ( no offence to MikeP's post, i'd say the same if it were my own post).
 
I could not see it Neil - there lots about the RHS throttle body but my cable sleeve had been dislodged under the battery tray behind the tank and fuel pump electrical connection block - it only took me a few mins to disconnect the fuel quick release and remove the connector and then nurse the cable sleeve back into the splitter- a superficial look at the bike and the RHS throttle body cable was well seated. For a novice like me knowing that it can get dislodged at the other end and this can give to the same symptoms was worthwhile.
 


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