1150 GS Final Drive

[B4ndit]

Just had a good day out on the 1150 but noticed the handling wasn't a 100%. But it seemed acceptable for such a big brute at motorway speeds.

Anyway checked the rear wheel and it definately moves from side to side with a little bit of clunking. Straight away I thought final drive bearing but after checking and checking (As you do with these things) I now think there is a little bit of movement between the final drive and the swing arm.

My question is that there appears to be two big pivot pins at this point and nothing else. Are thsee prone to allow some movement and if so can they be adjusted or replaced?

Is it part 2 on the diagram that is adjustable. Or do I need some major new parts? Hope not.

 

[(RIP) Bobble]

Yep, that's the pivot bearing, they're not very expensive, if you do a search there is a photo thread on how to change them. You might be able to tighten them a little unless thy've been done before!

 

[B4ndit]

Thanks for the reply.

So is part 2 susceptable to some wear and tear. I take it is sacrificial?

 

[DrFarkoff]

Needle rollers but be careful They are usually loctited

Use heat to get it moving

Search "replace adjust paralever bearings"

 

[B4ndit]

I take it part 1 and 2 should be replaced as a pair?

Just trying to work out what parts I need to order from BMW so I can get the job done before the weekend.

Not sure where I will get a 160NM torque wrench though or the muscles to get up to that torque.

 

[(RIP) Bobble]

This shows the bearing, two required, part No:33172311091

 

[motobiker]

Forgive me if I'm wrong.. but, I thought the usual procedure was to adjust to get rid of the play.. and see if it returns. If it does... replace them.

That is exactly how my bike was dealt with over this past year.. one service. slight play. so adjusted. next service.. play had returned and so the bearings were replaced. Obviously.. if the play hadn't come back then replacement would have been unnecessary.

Oh.. and, this was a couple of months ago. Motorworks had none in stock.. and a rather large waiting list. (they said). I rang Sherlocks.. they had some.. they also knew that BMW were having supply problems. But.. hopefully thats all sorted now.

 

[MattW]

As others have said, it is possible to adjust the bearings but because they're loctited, it can be hard to adjust them without stripping and cleaning the old loctite off. Once you've done this you might as well replace them Of course after you've replaced them, if you don't use loctite (as those who know recommend), then you can adjust them in the future.

I took mine to bits because I needed to replace the gearbox output shaft seal. When I took them to bits they looked like this:

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/1rjP6tMR5i4g61VebiT1qg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-g3fxb7JCpfU/ScdTzP5inRI/AAAAAAAABZI/RDAgtJKshKw/s800/IMG_4349.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a>

And one of the pivots looked like this:

<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QYGeApJd4sZr46UMKRiHIg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-o7IphDpMLwg/ScfFUaRrf7I/AAAAAAAABhM/F8RXGshEY50/s800/IMG_4351.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a>

For obvious reasons, I replaced the bearings on both sides and the damaged pivot. My pivot was damaged because the bearing had locked and was rotating on the pivot (probably because an already knackered bearing had been adjusted tighter). You'll be unlucky if this has happened to yours.

Have a search on here on paralever pinions - lots of information. One thing I would say is that it's essential to remove the old loctite, which is a faff but there are no shortcuts - acetone and time.

 

[B4ndit]

This shows the bearing, two required, part No:33172311091

None of my diagrams show part no 2 in your pic. It would make sense to have that bit.

My rear drive is slightly different to yours. Is that a 1100 picture mate?

Plus do you need any special; tools to get the bearings out?

At the moment it looks like I need to buy two pivoyt pins and two roler bearings is that correct?

 

[steve'o]

Chances are that you will only need the needle roller bearings as the pins don't normally get damaged. BMW do a special tool for holding pin 2 whilst doing the locknut up tight but it is possible to make for an old 30mm socket and 12mm allen key.

 

[(RIP) Bobble]

None of my diagrams show part no 2 in your pic. It would make sense to have that bit.

My rear drive is slightly different to yours. Is that a 1100 picture mate?

Plus do you need any special; tools to get the bearings out?

At the moment it looks like I need to buy two pivoyt pins and two roler bearings is that correct?

They are the ones, just not drawn the same, they should be needle but the diagram makes them look 'ball' the diagram is an 1150, see here: Click on 'rear axle and suspension' or just scroll down the page

 

[MattW]

Chances are that you will only need the needle roller bearings as the pins don't normally get damaged. BMW do a special tool for holding pin 2 whilst doing the locknut up tight but it is possible to make for an old 30mm socket and 12mm allen key.

Even a 30mm ring spanner and a 12mm hex key works. Once you've nipped up the locknut with the ring spanner, you can change to a socket to fully tighten it - use witness marks on the adjustable pivot to make sure it doesn't move while you're tightening the locknut.

Or buy one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Swinging-Arm-Bearing-Tool-BMW-Motorbike-2-Piece-Set-/360352464286

As above, it's very unlikely you'll need to change the pivot pinions (and they're expensive enough to not buy 'just in case' - one of them is titanium) - you can make that decision when you're removed them.

 

[Uncle Crumpet]

so what is the recomended service interval on these, when there is play in the wheel only?I have done 30000kms on mine and still no play, do you just keep checking for play and adjust when there is some?

 

[MikeP]

so what is the recomended service interval on these, when there is play in the wheel only?I have done 30000kms on mine and still no play, do you just keep checking for play and adjust when there is some?

Checking for play is just part of basic good-housekeeping during a service. Personally I check mine whenever I wash the bike, it takes a second or two. Regular checks have the advantage of making adjustment (if required) more successful because if left too long, adjustment will only be a very short-term fix owing to wear/damage.

 

[MikeP]

BMW do a special tool for holding pin 2 whilst doing the locknut up tight but it is possible to make for an old 30mm socket and 12mm allen key.

 

[Steptoe]

Forgive me if I'm wrong.. but, I thought the usual procedure was to adjust to get rid of the play.. and see if it returns. If it does... replace them.

.

That's the way to do it. 2 minute job and you don't even have to remove the wheel. I use an extention through the spokes

 

[B4ndit]

Okay ordered the bearings. Haven't bothered with the pivot pins due to the fact the costs were racking up quick. Will I regeret this?

Anyway I ill remove the rear drive tonight.

How do I remove the old bearings and fit the new ones?

It says not to tilt the final drive as it is still full of oil and oil might spill.

 

[MattW]

Will I regeret this?

As I wrote (several times) above, no it's highly unlikely you'll regret it - buy them if you need them

How do I remove the old bearings and fit the new ones?

Stop shouting

Read the haynes / clymer manual that I assume you have.

Do a search on here - several people (including me) have written about it. Either make a drift from stuff you've got available (sockets / extensions etc), or make a press from stuff (bolts, washers, sockets etc, or use a proper internal bearing puller.

The inner races and needle cage will come away, leaving the outer race in the swingarm - this is the bit that'll need the press / drift for.

My turn to shout:

Use plenty of heat when you remove the pivot pins - you must soften the loctite properly before trying to unscrew them.

 

[B4ndit]

Roger with the heat. Heat gun at the ready.

Just sourcing all the tools. I was hoping that somebody could point me in the way of a bearing puller that was suitable. Not having used a puller before I didn't want to buy the wrong thing.

I did see your handy home made puller and that may be the way to go with various sockets if I can get them in.

 

[MattW]

Roger with the heat. Heat gun at the ready.

Just sourcing all the tools. I was hoping that somebody could point me in the way of a bearing puller that was suitable. Not having used a puller before I didn't want to buy the wrong thing.

I did see your handy home made puller and that may be the way to go with various sockets if I can get them in.

The first ones I did, I just made a drift out of a socket of the right diameter and extension. Assemble the extension onto the socket inside the swingarm.

A bit of heat can help persuade the outer bearing races out of the swingarm (and can save having to beat on the swingarm too hard if you are going to drift them out).