1150 GS Wont Start. Possible Fuel Pump

[B4ndit]

Its dead as a door nail at the moment. I suspect a dodgy connection somewhere or possibly a knack-ed pump.

I won't run it long on 12 v I just want to see if it does something then stop immediately.

By the way which coloured wires are the pos and neg for the pump. I could jury rig some wire up to see if its a connections.

I checked the fuse again today. Swapped relays over and they work fine. Gave the under tank connector a quick clean (Will do this better tomorrow).

Then its empty the tank and take it from there.

 

[DrFarkoff]

I "think" it's green with a white stripe for the pump feed (but please check) and the brown is definitely negative

The other 2 are for the RID gauge and the Fuel lamp

Solid brown is normally negative or earth on Beemer original wiring

Do stick a fuse inline young fella! and not where you are gonna be transferring or spraying petrol! There's a good lad

 

[B4ndit]

Young fella. LOL. After today's work experience with some neurotic dames the last thing I am going to be called is young. More like dinosaur. Oh yeh I was called that. Then they had to run off for there kids. One of which is 12!!!!

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Pffft.


Is it fixed yet?

 

[B4ndit]

Right. Had it in bits.

Fuel pump works. Fed 12v straight to it and it whirs away.

I have 12v at fuse. 12v at relay. Relay works.

I have .3v at the tank connector.

So somewhere in between I am losing 11v+

Whats the sign of a faulty side stand switch? I am starting to think this is the culprit.

Bearing in mind the engine turns over freely. Could the side stand switch be giving me these problems.

Also anyone know exactly where the side stand switch connects to the loom? I am going to give that a clean next.

 

[MikeO]

Right. Had it in bits.

Fuel pump works. Fed 12v straight to it and it whirs away.

I have 12v at fuse. 12v at relay. Relay works.

I have .3v at the tank connector.

So somewhere in between I am losing 11v+

Whats the sign of a faulty side stand switch? I am starting to think this is the culprit.

Bearing in mind the engine turns over freely. Could the side stand switch be giving me these problems.

Also anyone know exactly where the side stand switch connects to the loom? I am going to give that a clean next.

How clean or otherwise is the tank connector? What are you using for an earth when you get the 0.3v?

Mike

 

[Blasterwizard]

The stand switch cuts only if the gear is not in neutral.

Are in the relay 12 volts? I mean, to made work the relay.

The symptoms are the same of mine.

Did you check the ignition key plug? The wires from there use to broke for friction.

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

It can't be a sidestand switch problem if the bike is in neutral and I don't thinkthe engine wouldn't turn over if it was at fault.

You need to be really sure of that relay function by checking for 12V at on your fuel injector connectors or the lambda sensor connector.

 

[B4ndit]

Cleaned the tank connector with a small brush on a dremel. Its really shiny now. There is no obvious sign of corrosion in the connector block.

I can pierce the wires just before they go into the connector to see if it is the connector pins. But I don't really want to do that if I can help it.

The reading was taken from both the fuel + and - wires and then different parts of the bike for a negative.

But I will try this area again tomorrow along with any other ideas that come up.

I guess I can take the tank off now as I have eliminated the fuel pump as a problem. This will allow me to inspect the wiring.

 

[B4ndit]

It can't be a sidestand switch problem if the bike is in neutral and I don't thinkthe engine wouldn't turn over if it was at fault.

You need to be really sure of that relay function by checking for 12V at on your fuel injector connectors or the lambda sensor connector.

I have swapped the relay over with the horn relay. The horn works.

It would be nice to get access under the relay to see if that bit is ok. But that is one mofo to get access to.

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

Also, IIRC the 12v on the fuel pump is only permanently on when the engine is running otherwise the system would be just pumping fuel into the TBs when powered up.

 

[B4ndit]

The stand switch cuts only if the gear is not in neutral.

Are in the relay 12 volts? I mean, to made work the relay.

The symptoms are the same of mine.

Did you check the ignition key plug? The wires from there use to broke for friction.

No I haven't checked this area yet. But wouldn't a fault here stop the starter as well?

 

[B4ndit]

You need to be really sure of that relay function by checking for 12V at on your fuel injector connectors or the lambda sensor connector.

Another job for tomorrow night.

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

I have swapped the relay over with the horn relay. The horn works.

It would be nice to get access under the relay to see if that bit is ok. But that is one mofo to get access to.

Okay. Why don't you just try and start the bike with an injector loose, and eveything connected, just to see if the fuel pump actually does pump the fuel. It's reaaly easy and will tell you a lot.

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

Another job for tomorrow night.

I look forward to it.

 

[B4ndit]

Okay. Why don't you just try and start the bike with an injector loose, and eveything connected, just to see if the fuel pump actually does pump the fuel. It's reaaly easy and will tell you a lot.

I will try that before I take the tank off. I guess it will run for a little while as the pump was left primed from the direct 12v feed. Then die.

If there is a problem here what might be the remedy?

 

[DrFarkoff]

I guess I can take the tank off now as I have eliminated the fuel pump as a problem. This will allow me to inspect the wiring.

Okay right did you measure the voltage at the supply side of the plug? Or did you try to measure it with it connected If you tried to do it connected you will get screwy results

the pump may spin but is there pressure???

 

[B4ndit]

Okay right did you measure the voltage at the supply side of the plug? Or did you try to measure it with it connected If you tried to do it connected you will get screwy results

the pump may spin but is there pressure???

Measured at the supply side whilst disconnected.

 

[Blasterwizard]

I have swapped the relay over with the horn relay. The horn works.

It would be nice to get access under the relay to see if that bit is ok. But that is one mofo to get access to.

NOOOOOOO Thats what I did, for nothing! Pull out the relay and make a jumper from contacts 3 & 4. If the fuel pump works, the problem is not in the relay.

 

[Blasterwizard]

Look here: