We can't be far away from hearing some good news.
LOL.
Well tried running a ground from the pump to earth and nothing happened. Removed the ECU connector and checked inside. All looks good. No change in inability for pump to prime.
1150 GS Wont Start. Possible Fuel Pump
- Thread starter B4ndit
- Start date
LOL.
Well tried running a ground from the pump to earth and nothing happened. Removed the ECU connector and checked inside. All looks good. No change in inability for pump to prime.
To save me reading all this again will you confirm that you have actually wedged the leads of your multimeter into the 4-pin connector which feeds the pump assy and watched what happens when you turn the bike on and when you try to start it.
There should be momentary 12Vdc upon power-up and a continous 12Vdc when trying to start. If there's a voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V then that will also tell you something about the condition of your wiring or the inline components.
You also need to veryify your resistance between the Motronic connector and another of those green/white wires.
Sorry for me being lazy when it's you doing the job.
That is correct. The pin on the Motronic is said to "go low" when using electronics terminology.
My GSA will run perfectly well without refitting the tank completely and the Geezers should do so as well. His ground connection should be through the wiring.
We can't be far away from hearing some good news.
That's the point. Yours is working.
His should as well. Is it though? Anyway, just trying to help.
To save me reading all this again will you confirm that you have actually wedged the leads of your multimeter into the 4-pin connector which feeds the pump assy and watched what happens when you turn the bike on and when you try to start it.
There should be momentary 12Vdc upon power-up and a continous 12Vdc when trying to start. If there's a voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V then that will also tell you something about the condition of your wiring or the inline components.
You also need to veryify your resistance between the Motronic connector and another of those green/white wires.
Sorry for me being lazy when it's you doing the job.
I'll get back to you tomorrow. I am going to strip the starter button down as well.
Hang on. Was that working when you wired the power supply directly to the fuel pump connector? If so don't waste your time on that and concentrate on establishing the power to the pump via its normal path.
+1
Your focus is drifting. If the starter turns forget the start button. If the motronic works forget the kill switch.
Bandit did you change the fuse for a new one then test to see if it'll start
If not swap the relays over and try again?????
If not swap the relays over and try again?????
Do you know what you're doing... Do you understand diagnosing problems or do you enjoy adding to your confusion 
Seems so.
Well the bike is well and truly in bits now.
Now time to try and explain what I have done. Checked all Relays, renewed all fuses. And then got stuck into diagnostics. The fuel pump relay is getting 12V constant on the magneto side. The switch closes for a second or so then reopens again. This is being caused by the ECU on pin16 going to ground. Why I don't know. Faulty transistor? There is no break in the wiring loom between the relay and pin 16.
I can confirm that the Motronic is getting power on pin 23.
Whilst digging around I did find that the Data tool Veto Evo alarm is spliced into the fuel pump power. What are the symptoms of an alarm going bad. More research required here I think.
Has any kind soul got a 1150 GS single spark in the Basingstoke area they would allow me to plug my motronic unit into to see if its the motronic.
The motronic is doing what it's supposed to. I'm wandering if you are reading any of the posts here. The fact you can get your bike to run. Must tell you that the motronic is working fine.
You were asked by MikeO if you had an alarm. If it is an imobilizer, then most probably they have chopped your power line to the pump and installed a relay inside the alarm. If that relay has failed that will be your problem find where the break is and reconnect the two halfs of your wiring and you should have it fixed.
I've had a starting problem on another bike with an alarm (different manufacturer) and had to have it removed. Be warned that you may have to call in a mobile Geezer to come to your gaff and remove said device from the circuit to see what happens.
Also, as Ian says the Motronic is probably. I once had it from a good source that they never fail. How true this is I don't know but what is certain is that you don't see threads on here about failed ECUs. Further to this, the action you are observing when powering up the bike is HOW IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE. I mentioned this ages ago, and others have confirmed this, and what you need to verify is what is happening when you try to start the bike. Sorry, but I'm not reading all of this again, as said earlier, and it would be a good idea if you sat down for a while and made a few notes, for your own benefit, and then relay any relevent information here if you think it is necessary.
Now, have you wedged your multimeter leads into the 4 pin connector and meassured the voltage when you try to start the bike and checked the resistances of the wiring throughout the circuit? These are the easy jobs and if you take small steps you will be able to piece together all of the elements of the circuit and see what wrong.
Good Luck.
Follow the advice of Ditchwater. What you should see is a momentary pulse of 12volts whilst the motronic powers up. Then when you press the start button and the engine rotates, a solid 12v. (1)
You should see exactly the same at the green/white of the left (2) and right (3) injectors, if you can locate the timing valve connector (4) located on the right hand side of the frame near the clutch bleed nipple. (that spare connecter everyone asks about) The green/white od this connector should show the exact same. All these points are directly connected to one another and to the output from the fuel pump relay (5).
You can carry out continuity checks between all 5 points and they should all show continuity.
You should see exactly the same at the green/white of the left (2) and right (3) injectors, if you can locate the timing valve connector (4) located on the right hand side of the frame near the clutch bleed nipple. (that spare connecter everyone asks about) The green/white od this connector should show the exact same. All these points are directly connected to one another and to the output from the fuel pump relay (5).
You can carry out continuity checks between all 5 points and they should all show continuity.
Cut the wires to the alarm that. Interrupt the fuel pump wires
Rejoin Only the pump wires and test
It WILL run datatool are. Pure schite
All an alarm does is inconvenience honest people
Why the heck didn't you mention that alarm before??????????
Rejoin Only the pump wires and test
It WILL run datatool are. Pure schite
All an alarm does is inconvenience honest people
Why the heck didn't you mention that alarm before??????????
Thats my next plan of attack.
Never liked the bloody alarm anyway. It will be in the bin this time tomorrow.
The Grey One
Registered user
If anyone,who actually knows what he is talking about, knows how to remove the Datatool Alarm I would be interested. Not because it is "shite" (or even just called that by someone who needs processional help) but because out here there is no need for an alarm. There is nobody around who would steal it anyway.
John
John
Feedback will be forthcoming Sunday. It will be removed late Sunday. A little research has shown that the whole thing can be removed in 30 minutes. I am not sure what state that will leave the bike in but I will report back.
Electrical problems are a nightmare. Not even the most experienced bike repairers have a quick fix for such things. Thats probably why auto electrician is a separate trade to mechanic or technician.
What always would help and your average joe doesn't have is a lot of spare parts to swap over as you carry out systematic checks just to eliminate things.
Good job I have a car (cage as backup or just to rely on)
There are still a few safe bits of England in the twentieth century.
Where I live and work an alarm is just a waste of money. Therefore scrap it shall soon be.
When I am out on the bike I never let it out of my sight.
They aren't a nightmare if you use common sense. And auto elecricians aren't needed for an 1150 GS, they're needed on vehicles like range rovers etc
As an example - You mentioned you were going to start dismantling the starter button, but it must work as you started the bike when you fed power direct to the pump.
You mention your motronic may be the problem, but it worked when you started the bike.
Removing the alarm should take 10 minutes, and a few mintues re-soldering the fuel pump wire and indicator wires.
All the alarm wires are black, but don't worry, the bike wires they join to will be colour correct. So just re-join them once you cut out thr alarm wires.
But bare in mind that you may have now introduced another potential problem if the alarm wasn't the original problem.
Getting "stuck into the diagnostics" is the first thing you do.
I told you what the problem was likely to be way back i the thread (before i heard there was an alarm fitted ).
I'm out of this zoo.
richierex
Registered user
Feedback will be forthcoming Sunday. It will be removed late Sunday. A little research has shown that the whole thing can be removed in 30 minutes. I am not sure what state that will leave the bike in but I will report back.
Electrical problems are a nightmare. Not even the most experienced bike repairers have a quick fix for such things. Thats probably why auto electrician is a separate trade to mechanic or technician.
What always would help and your average joe doesn't have is a lot of spare parts to swap over as you carry out systematic checks just to eliminate things.
Good job I have a car (cage as backup or just to rely on)
I think a lot of the problem here is no logical approach to the problem, you seem to be leaping in here and there with the help of a few on here.
Similar threads
