1150 GSA No Power

[Big E]

I have just replaced the coil sticks on my 1150GSA twin spark after experiencing some of the symptoms posted on here.

Lack of power when accelerating hard between 3k and 5k rpm and at speeds around 70 to 80 mph. The engine seems to rev but I have no power.

The coils were badly corroded so I assumed that it would be these as the plugs are reasonably new.

New sticks fitted but I still have the same symptoms.

Is my next step replacing the plugs?

 

[Steptoe]

.

The coils were badly corroded so I assumed that it would be these as the plugs are reasonably new.

New sticks fitted but I still have the same symptoms.

The condition of the coil sticks bears no relevence to if they work or not.

Easy enough to test. Just pull off the bottom secondary plug caps and see if the bike runs on just the mains.

 

[trancey]

The condition of the coil sticks bears no relevence to if they work or not.

Easy enough to test. Just pull off the bottom secondary plug caps and see if the bike runs on just the mains.

Top information Steptoe, kit helped me identify a faulty coil pack last night

 

[roddy]

I have just replaced the coil sticks on my 1150GSA twin spark after experiencing some of the symptoms posted on here.

Lack of power when accelerating hard between 3k and 5k rpm and at speeds around 70 to 80 mph. The engine seems to rev but I have no power.

The coils were badly corroded so I assumed that it would be these as the plugs are reasonably new.

New sticks fitted but I still have the same symptoms.

Is my next step replacing the plugs?

going by what you have said, I'd suspect a slipping clutch if it was my bike ?

 

[Big E]

Problem resolved, I think!!

I discovered the left main spark plug was slightly loose when I was checking all the plugs for condition, not so it was falling out loose just not nipped up correctly.

Refitted all the plugs and tightened them all up. Bike seemed to be running fine too and from work today.

What I should have done before forking out for new coils.

1. Check that all the plugs were correctly tightened.
2. Done steptoes coil test procedure.
3. Fit new plugs
4. BUY NEW COILS !! if required.

I hope this helps anyone with the same symptoms I had.

 

[roddy]

A lesson in checking the obvious first if there ever was one

 

[Big E]

Problem Back again !!!

Bike seemed to be running fine until tonight on my way home from work. When accelerating hard mainly in 3rd gear, the bike seems to rev high but fails to pull away, after a couple of seconds the revs come back down and the bike starts pulling away.

The bike however is now running fine at top end speeds.

The problem is not noticeable when accelerating away steadily.

Do I need to be balancing the throttle bodies after fitting new coils? Or is it likely to be something more serious i.e. the clutch slipping.

 

[Womble]

Definitely sounds like clutch slip.

Is there much clutch fluid in the reservoir? If you can't see any air, taking a little out mau help, because the level goes up as the clutch wears and eventually there's too much in the system.

And don't forget the obvious possibility of the lever fouling a handguard.

 

[davegs]

Clutch

Take off the starter motor (takes five mins) look inside the housing with a torch see if you can see any trace of oil.
Dave GS

 

[Nobby]

clutch slip.sounds the same as mine.me clutch was fecked when i did it.

 

[Big E]

Definitely sounds like clutch slip.

Is there much clutch fluid in the reservoir? If you can't see any air, taking a little out mau help, because the level goes up as the clutch wears and eventually there's too much in the system.

And don't forget the obvious possibility of the lever fouling a handguard.

The clutch reservoir was indeed full and so i removed a little as suggested.

The bike now seems to be running ok with no clutch slip at the moment.

Will this give me a few more miles or should I replace the clutch plate sooner rather than later?

 

[davegs]

Clutches

Keep going as long as poss but DON'T just replace the plate the whole assembly needs to be replaced or you'll be back to square one in about 5000 miles.

 

[Big E]

Keep going as long as poss but DON'T just replace the plate the whole assembly needs to be replaced or you'll be back to square one in about 5000 miles.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[Womble]

The clutch reservoir was indeed full and so i removed a little as suggested.

The bike now seems to be running ok with no clutch slip at the moment.

Will this give me a few more miles or should I replace the clutch plate sooner rather than later?

Great news - it's always good when it's a simple fix

It's perfectly normal, so you should be fine for a while, depending on how much fluid you took out. At some point it would be a good idea to pop off the starter motor and check out the thickness of the clutch, so you can get an idea of how long it's going to last, or to get it checked at the next service.

 

[Big E]

Great news - it's always good when it's a simple fix

It's perfectly normal, so you should be fine for a while, depending on how much fluid you took out. At some point it would be a good idea to pop off the starter motor and check out the thickness of the clutch, so you can get an idea of how long it's going to last, or to get it checked at the next service.

Thanks mate