1150GS Cutting out

GSBloke

Registered user
Joined
Jul 20, 2015
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
UK
Hello everyone,

I'm new to BMW ownership and this is my first post here :beerjug: But unfortunately I'm looking for some help please.. :blast I have a 2003 R1150GS that has developed a fault. If anyone has any troubleshooting ideas or known issues to investigate I would much appreciate the help.

Fault
Engine cuts out/dies. When this happens the dash lights remain on, the engine cuts out cleanly with no misfire or stuttering. Almost as though someone has turned the ignition off. Try to immediately restart and the engine spins over fine and starts. It runs for 3-4 seconds and then dies. If you try and use the throttle, it dies immediately. Leave it for a while (no set time) and the bike will run again. The problem is intermittent insofar as it's not after a specific time or mileage but it is guaranteed the bike will cut out each time it's used and normally within 10-15 minutes. When the bike dies and when trying to restart I can clearly hear the fuel pump working.

Fault finding so far
Replaced fuel filter
Swapped over fuel/horn relays
Cleaned up all multi-pin connectors under the tank. The connections are not great, most had some green copper corrosion.

I'm aware of the Hall Effect Sensor but not convinced it's the issue here. From what I read the 1150 didn't really suffer from it like the old 1100's. I've also managed to get the bike back into my garage while still experiencing the issue. I removed the spark plugs and rotated the rear wheel in 6th gear and could hear the fuel pump on each crank rotation which suggests the HES is working ok. When the bike dies the tacho doesn't jump around either, simply drops to zero.

But I am leaning towards it being an electrical issue and possibly affecting fuel flow. As said the connectors have light corrosion (which I've tried to clean up) and the fuel gauge doesn't work nor does the gear VDO (the fuel gauge stopped a couple of weeks ago and the gear VDO after I had the connector apart to clean up). The VDO only displays gears 1, 3 & 5 now. The loom insulation is poor on the wiring loom too. In a lot of places it has deteriorated and looks to have almost rotted away. I do plan to buy a chemical cleaner (deoxit or similar) and clean up the connectors further. I will also buy some new loop tape and tidy up the looms once the fault has been rectified.

However, is the symptom of the engine cutting out like this a common problem on the 1150GS? Any ideas of what to work through next? Whatever it is it's killing the engine immediately, so it's not like a failing injector or coil pack etc where it drops to one cylinder and misfires. Equally, whatever is failing isn’t failing permanently as the engine will restart after a while. When the bike does run, it's smooth and has full power through the rev range.

I'm not sure switches like the side stand or emergency cut out are the problem either. While in both cases they do kill a bike dead they don't match the symptoms I have. I.e. the bike will immediately restart and run for a few seconds before it cuts out again.

Thanks for reading and would love to hear any suggestions. When it's running I love the bike so am keen to persevere but it's proving to be a challenge so far :)

Ps, any tips for cleaning up the connectors - chemicals/tools?
 
It's a long shot but does it cut out when you turn the bars? The ignition loom from the key where it plugs into the main harness is notorious for breaking down due to being cable tired too tightly. Maybe get it running then fiddle with that length of cable. If you can make it cut out you've found your problem. But it is a long shot as you say it's happy again after cooling down?

Give it a try. An easy one to eliminate



Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
It's not a long shot and I think you may be in the right area. It doesn't happen when I move the bars and I can't get it to fail on demand by wiggling the loom but on one occasion when it was refusing to restart I wiggled the loom that goes up behind the clocks and it sprang into life. I'm not sure if that was coincidence as I wasn't able to repeat that again.. But I've cut all the rotted insulation off that part of the loom and removed all cable ties but can't find any breaks in the individual wire insulation. I guess I need to remove all of the insulation from the ignition switch back into the loom and check there also.

Gotta love electrical faults :D
 
Definitely sounds electrical. Also sounds like the wiring has seen better days... You're gonna have to be patient and trace those wires to find the dodgy one! Maybe just try wiggling them to replicate the fault.

Maybe someone else on here has some tricks to finding am electrical problem. But normally is a slow process of elimination.


Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Its likely Hall Sensors

I Had this start and run and then die and if I'm correct it either dies quicker if throttle touched after running or wont start at all ???
 
I agree that HES sounds like the culprit but was suspicious that the tacho doesn't jump around and the fuel pump operates correctly when turning the rear wheel. I guess I may have to swap it out to be sure. Is there a recommended place to buy the sensors?
 
As the good DrFarkhoff has siad. It sounds like an HES fault.

They can still be faulty and the fuel pump primes, and the tacho jumping around only happens on a few failures, not every single time.
 
Hopefully you don't let her idle too long - this can develop the HES fault, as they overheat and fail.

Unless it starts when you jiggle the loom, DrFarkoff and Steppers are on the money.
 
Ok cheers all will replace the hes. I don't let it idle and don't sit in traffic much either, although I've not had it long so no idea what the previous owner did.

Is it a dealer only part or is there a good aftermarket option?
 
I bought one from this guy in Greece. Works perfectly and a fraction of dealer prices. Depending on where you are you may be able to borrow one to eliminate the HES & save £90 into the bargain.
 
Thanks, really appreciate the pointers. I'll contact Nick the Greek :)
 


Back
Top Bottom