1150GS Pre-rebuild jobs/upgrades advice please!

[Hay Ewe]

Thanks Ewe. The loom sheath completely disintegrated in places during the disassembly. I had black confetti all over the bench as I took the bike apart! It’s certainly getting repaired…..

I know the exact spot you mean on the left. Oddly, it actually seems ok there, but I’ll inspect it closely when I get to it!

I dont have a picture of that area and what I did to mine.
I got some clear flexable hose, large size and made a sleeve.
has some large size spiral wrap on it as well.

(am looking forward to gettting mine out of storage and tinkering and getting back up to speed - living a bit through your project at the moment!)

 

[Hay Ewe]

MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts & Technical Diagrams - R1150GS (R21)

BMW Parts for your R1150GS (R21) Production: 09/98-11/03 USA

shop.maxbmw.com

Thats the page for the throttle cable set up and p/n

 

[Bikermike1411]

I’ve two options for the sheathing. For the narrow wires I can use heat shrink wrap, but for sections with big plugs on I’ll use wrap - either electrical tape or other proprietary sheath wrapping tape. I don’t like the ‘fabric’ style stuff though!

 

[Bikermike1411]

But yeah, that tight spot will need looking at!

 

[Steptoe]

However, i’m 99.9% sure it’s crystallised grease.

It’s crystallised brake/clutch fluid .,

 

[Nin]

Replace or refurbish the exhaust studs on the cylinder heads.

 

[Nin]

View attachment 458097

Thanks all. Any thoughts on the condition of the pushrod? It came out easily, straight out. However, there’s a little bit of scoring at each end - it’s been gripped hard with pliers and twisted to remove it - I can see some marking at the slave-end and some scoring at the internal/clutch end. Will this interfere with the seal at all?

The condition looks ok besides this. I can’t tell if it’s got a Teflon-esque coating which might have worn in places.

View attachment 458098

View attachment 458099

Roll it on a sheet of glass to see if it’s straight.

 

[Nin]

I’ve two options for the sheathing. For the narrow wires I can use heat shrink wrap, but for sections with big plugs on I’ll use wrap - either electrical tape or other proprietary sheath wrapping tape. I don’t like the ‘fabric’ style stuff though!

Use silicon spiral wrap

RS PRO Spiral Wrap, I.D 9mm, 32mm Polyethylene | RS

uk.rs-online.com

 

[Bikermike1411]

That looks like handy stuff Nin, thanks!

I’m strongly considering having the exhaust studs removed - I’ll never extract them myself, so probably better to take the heads straight to an engineering firm and have them do the job.

The pushrod is straight - I was concerned about the state of the coating and whether the marks might interfere with the new seal.

 

[Nin]

Nae worries - definitely get the studs done if you’re ever considering taking the exhausts off in future.

The pushrod should be fine as long as it’s straight.

 

[Bikermike1411]

It’s crystallised brake/clutch fluid .,

Thanks steptoe. It smelled more like general-purpose grease and was waxy/greasy when I compressed it.

I’m going to replace the slave cylinder and seal regardless. If it is fluid, do I need to look at the clutch proper beyond the seal for any signs of penetration past it?

 

[Demongroover]

I'd replace the swing arm pivot tapered needle bearings with a set of bushes, you can get them from Motorworks.

 

[Steptoe]

[QUOTE="Bikermike1411, post: 5980266, member: 24178]
If it is fluid, do I need to look at the clutch proper beyond the seal for any signs of penetration past it?
[/QUOTE]

No need to look, unless gearbox oil run out when you removed the slave cylinder ., if the gearbox seal leaks the recess fills up with gearbox oil and runs down the push rod tunnel.

 

[Bikermike1411]

Thanks Steptoe - that’s a relief! There was nothing in there bar that crud. So just change the seal and slave and it should be all good?

 

[Bikermike1411]

I'd replace the swing arm pivot tapered needle bearings with a set of bushes, you can get them from Motorworks.

Cheers, I’ll add that to the list for phase 2 when I take the rear end out for refurb!

 

[Bikermike1411]

Nae worries - definitely get the studs done if you’re ever considering taking the exhausts off in future.

The pushrod should be fine as long as it’s straight.

Cheers Nin. I was hoping never to take the down pipes off again! The idea being that if they go back on, then great. If not, and one lets go, it’s not a huge job at that point to take the heads off. One of the perks of a boxer engine I guess!

I’m going to find a local engineering firm to see what they’d charge to remove them anyway