1150GSA engine just died .......

red1

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Riding home this afternoon on my newly acquired GSA at a casual 60-65 when the engine just died.
No banging, clattering or other noises.

Almost 100% certain its a fuel problem as when neat fuel poured down throttle body it fired and died.
Checked fuse/relay with no success. So where do I start? What's the favourite fault to look for?

Nearly a full tank of fuel.
 
Check the short wiring loom from the ignition to under the tank.

Sit on the bike and start it (if it starts that is). Then turn the bars left and right and see if it cuts out.

If it doesn't start put the ignition on and turn the bars left and right and see if the fuel pump primes.

The short wiring loom has a tendency to break as it is cable tied to the frame.

Or it could be the Hall Sensor.
 
Check the short wiring loom from the ignition to under the tank.

Sit on the bike and start it (if it starts that is). Then turn the bars left and right and see if it cuts out.

If it doesn't start put the ignition on and turn the bars left and right and see if the fuel pump primes.

The short wiring loom has a tendency to break as it is cable tied to the frame.

Or it could be the Hall Sensor.

As I said in OP, if I pour fuel into TB it fires so don't think it's electrical. But will check. Thanks for tip.
 
Yep, definitely check the fuel pump is priming first. The do the bar wiggling to check the ignition circuit.

I've had my gsa just cut out and stop twice. Once the connection to the coil had broken inside the plastic connector (still got fuel though) the other time the side switch had itself the side stand had come down (and cut the fuel)
 
Not sure. It's servo brake job and there is some sort of noise but not sure what. Only had it a day! Hope it's not a repeat of the last one!

I thought you were still on SiRich's:blast

You should have bought mine, that'll teach you:D
 
I thought you were still on SiRich's:blast

You should have bought mine, that'll teach you:D

That bag of crap should have taught me a lesson! But I fell for it again. Stop sending me those rose tinted specs!!
 
Not sure. It's servo brake job and there is some sort of noise but not sure what. Only had it a day! Hope it's not a repeat of the last one!

the fuel pump and brake servos have 2 different tones.

If I remember correctly, put the engine cut off to off, switch the bike on and you hear the brake servo being tested once thats stopped, don't touch any brake lever then turn the engine cut off to on and you should hear a short whine as the fuel pump primes
 
the fuel pump and brake servos have 2 different tones.

If I remember correctly, put the engine cut off to off, switch the bike on and you hear the brake servo being tested once thats stopped, don't touch any brake lever then turn the engine cut off to on and you should hear a short whine as the fuel pump primes

Cheers roddy
 
The "Bitch" is back!

Fuel pump seems favourite so before I try and get 30 litres out of the tank is there a method of testing that the pump has failed?
Such as, which of the wires going to the pump are live and neutral so I can put 12v direct to see if theres life?
Any other checks?
If it is the pump it's only common sense to sort out the rest whilst it's stripped so apart from fuel filter which bits inside should you change?
 
Does this look like the right pump? Connections etc?
Off Audi 80, 100, 200, Cabriolet, Coupe, A6.
 

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I'd be trying the plastic harness connector near to where the fuel pipes run down the right hand side of the tank (just about where your knee would sit when sat on the bike) Make sure it's clicked into place - once happened to me when I'd had the tank off - riding on a dual carriageway and the bike just died!
 
Does this look like the right pump? Connections etc?
Off Audi 80, 100, 200, Cabriolet, Coupe, A6.

Yes, that looks the same, Do a search on here for alernative 1150 pumps and I'm sure you will have the answer and correct part number. @60.00 gbp.

Pekka will probably be along to help, as he did me.

Have you tried checking if the fuel pump solenoid is clicking when ignition turned on, also test fuses - don't just visually check. Earlier post on wiring breaking by the headstock should be investigated as well as the connecting plug RHS of fuel tank, the one you disconnect to remove the tank, the female recievers become 'slack' and need squeezing back together if the connector is roughly opened - easy to do. Start with the cheapest stuff first.
 


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