I've had 12v direct to pump with no response.
1150GSA engine just died .......
- Thread starter red1
- Start date
I've had 12v direct to pump with no response.
replaced fuses. Swopped solenoids
" the female receivers become slack and need squeezing back together"
Jesus the lads only trying to get his bike running!
flatdog
Registered user
" the female receivers become slack and need squeezing back together"
Jesus the lads only trying to get his bike running!
Perv.
I call that piston slap..
never touch the sides again
flatdog
Registered user
Check the wires around the headstock are not still cable tied as per factory spec. Do the connector block, and check continuity before and after on all the wires.
If all ok then suspect the pump....which costs @180.00 from dealers, 1/3 the price by using the car substitute.
Don't panic when the access plate 'o' ring won't fit, something magical and mysterious happens and it returns back to normal....ok I forget the process but it can be reused, but it was fekkin years ago when I did mine.
Best to do is search on here as its all been done before.
Just be careful connecting the pipes on as the new pump pipe connector can break easily if too rough. DAMHIK....plus I shot one.
You've done the correct thing. 12v direct on the pump.
Don't bother checking for anything else. If you had other problems, then when you put fuel in the throttle bodies, the bike would not have fired up, as it did.
The pump you indicate, looks like the correct alternative.
I'm curious to know why you are posting, for advice?
Your fault finding is spot on!
Correct identification of probable cause and correct testing to confirm faulty component.
Outstanding!
Your fault finding is spot on!
Correct identification of probable cause and correct testing to confirm faulty component.
Outstanding!
flatdog
Registered user
I'm curious to know why you are posting, for advice?
Your fault finding is spot on!
Correct identification of probable cause and correct testing to confirm faulty component.
Outstanding!
Correct...Mr Hartley. But are his q's based on your experience or his??? . his conclusions may be correct, however his q's are also seeking confirmation rather than your input as to his motive..? This is a machine that costs money and is not just an opinion.....that usually costs someone else money.
Carry on as you are on course, Red1.....as Ian has said.
(yes actually we are all tryig to help)
I'm curious to know why you are posting, for advice?
Your fault finding is spot on!
Correct identification of probable cause and correct testing to confirm faulty component.
Outstanding!
Agreed.
I did wonder why people are recommending all sorts of other 'red herring' things to check - do they not read previous posts
He's had 12v direct to the pump and it didn't run...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sunny Jim
I'd be trying the plastic harness connector near to where the fuel pipes run down the right hand side of the tank (just about where your knee would sit when sat on the bike) Make sure it's clicked into place - once happened to me when I'd had the tank off - riding on a dual carriageway and the bike just died!
I've had 12v direct to pump with no response.
If the harness isn't clipped in properly there'll be no power going to the pump to start with surely???
Originally Posted by Sunny Jim
I'd be trying the plastic harness connector near to where the fuel pipes run down the right hand side of the tank (just about where your knee would sit when sat on the bike) Make sure it's clicked into place - once happened to me when I'd had the tank off - riding on a dual carriageway and the bike just died!
I've had 12v direct to pump with no response.
If the harness isn't clipped in properly there'll be no power going to the pump to start with surely???
Very true, but he has disconnected at that point in order to feed 12v direct to pump. The pump did not run. Therefore it is either the short tank wiring loom from that connector to pump (unlikely) Or pump.
If the pump had run, then yes, it would be worth checking the tank connector and other things, but that is not the case.
OK, now I'm totally baffled 
Tank off and drained (25 ltrs !!!) pump assembly removed from tank, pump removed from mounting and just because I had to do it ...... I stuck 12v across the pump terminals and .... yes it spat fuel out and ran smooth as a babies bum
Put it back in mounting and 12v into green and brown on block connector that connects on frame .... and it ran
Plugged connector into bike harness and turned on ignition and it ran
Boxing it back up and see what happens ......
Any brilliant suggestions as to what or why?
Tank off and drained (25 ltrs !!!) pump assembly removed from tank, pump removed from mounting and just because I had to do it ...... I stuck 12v across the pump terminals and .... yes it spat fuel out and ran smooth as a babies bum
Put it back in mounting and 12v into green and brown on block connector that connects on frame .... and it ran
Plugged connector into bike harness and turned on ignition and it ran
Boxing it back up and see what happens ......
Any brilliant suggestions as to what or why?
The pump might have picked up some debris and jammed. You cleared the stoppage in your fault finding.
The pump could be worn and jamming on it's own.
What do the wiring and contacts look like on the tank side of the connector. Are they corroded, might be giving you intermittent contact.
If you don't want to replace the pump, then you could put it all back together and just run the pump for a while with your direct 12v to see if it jammed and or stops again.
Good luck, intermittent faults can be a nightmare to find unless you replace components.
The pump could be worn and jamming on it's own.
What do the wiring and contacts look like on the tank side of the connector. Are they corroded, might be giving you intermittent contact.
If you don't want to replace the pump, then you could put it all back together and just run the pump for a while with your direct 12v to see if it jammed and or stops again.
Good luck, intermittent faults can be a nightmare to find unless you replace components.
I've ordered a new tank seal so won't be able to get it together until that arrives, probably saturday if I'm lucky and Motorworks got in post tonight.
All the blocks look good for a 10 yr old bike. No visible corrosion. Is there anything to use to clean/protect connector blocks?
Someone mentioned wiring around headstock? What's the score? Just simply cut the tie?
All the blocks look good for a 10 yr old bike. No visible corrosion. Is there anything to use to clean/protect connector blocks?
Someone mentioned wiring around headstock? What's the score? Just simply cut the tie?
If your original seal isn't damaged you could reuse it. Just let it dry out to shrink back to normal size.
People use all sorts of stuff. ACF50, WD40, Silicon Grease spray, I use a military grade contact cleaner, or silicon spray.
The wiring around the head stock is the wiring loom to the ignition switch. Originally the harness to the switch had cable ties too close to the switch, so that turning the handlebars would stress the loom causing the wires to break. If you have any cut them off and turn the handlebars and observe the loom, it should flex easily.
Great result Red1 - my last bit of advice...when you go to tighten the nuts down onto the fuel pump assembly and tank be extremely careful - too much pressure and you'll shear a bolt. (Book says 5nm if I'm correct - ignore that and go by feel - the rubber seal will do its job)
Not sure it's a great result.
Now the possibilities of where to find the malfunction are endless!
Hopefully it starts when I get it back together and then I just have to worry about if or when it's going to happen again.
Would have preferred the pump to be u/s. At least then it would be sorted.
Everything you did, pointed to the pump as the problem. I think it still is the problem.
If it was me I would replace it, with one of those alternative. They are loads cheaper than original at about £30. At least you would have replaced something.
If the fault occurs again, at least you would know it's not the pump, and you could refit the original, or keep as a spare, and know you have eliminate one probably cause.
If the fault doesn't re-occur, then you've fixed it.
Got the bits this am and it's back together and I've been out for an hour and it's running fine.
