1150gsa struggles to start

[zdaveuk]

took the hall sensor off give it a clean, and put it back on, turned the bike over on starter and theres a spark, so now going to charge the battery up and see if it starts.


when it is running it runs great smooth , no surging its just getting it to the point where it will run, maybe I`ll get it started and just leave it running 24/7 that would solve it lol

 

[MattW]

took the hall sensor off give it a clean, and put it back on, turned the bike over on starter and theres a spark, so now going to charge the battery up and see if it starts.


when it is running it runs great smooth , no surging its just getting it to the point where it will run, maybe I`ll get it started and just leave it running 24/7 that would solve it lol

If / when you get it running check the rev counter for weirdness (one of the common indicators of HES failure).

As HES sensors usually fail due to the heat related breakdown of wiring insulation on the plate (feeding the actual sensors), your removal and clean may have disturbed the wiring enough for it to work (possibly only briefly).

 

[zdaveuk]

If / when you get it running check the rev counter for weirdness (one of the common indicators of HES failure).

As HES sensors usually fail due to the heat related breakdown of wiring insulation on the plate (feeding the actual sensors), your removal and clean may have disturbed the wiring enough for it to work (possibly only briefly).

so a new HES is inevitable?

 

[MattW]

so a new HES is inevitable?

Not necessarily - it might be something entirely unconnected with the HES, however the symptoms you describe have been linked with HES failure

If I was you, I'd get it started and see what happens. If it starts playing up again, I'd probably either get it checked by an independent who could try a simple substitution of a sensor to test it, or stump up and buy one.

Alternatively if you've got nimble fingers and a soldering iron, you can actually buy the individual sensors and change them on the plate but th eonly place I know that stocks them in the UK are out of stock at the moment:

http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1470597

 

[zdaveuk]

fitted a new HES this morning and bike still would nt start.
so can rule out HES

tried something took side stand switch off and when i turned switch I could hear relay clicking
but this was outside normal position
when side stand is down switch pin is at 7 oclock position and when side stand is up its in 5 oclock position
I get relay clicking between 11 oclock position and 1 oclock position

so turned bike over with spark plug out and when turn switch I was getting a spark

so ordered a new side stand switch

 

[Stewart H]

Your new sidestand switch will come with some wire attached, go on cut the wires and join them together, put us out of our misery

Stewart

 

[dancata]

fitted a new HES this morning and bike still would nt start.
so can rule out HES

tried something took side stand switch off and when i turned switch I could hear relay clicking
but this was outside normal position
when side stand is down switch pin is at 7 oclock position and when side stand is up its in 5 oclock position
I get relay clicking between 11 oclock position and 1 oclock position

so turned bike over with spark plug out and when turn switch I was getting a spark

so ordered a new side stand switch

no neew to order, follow this

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/SSIBD.pdf

 

[zdaveuk]

no neew to order, follow this

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/SSIBD.pdf

Thanks I followed that , battery on , by passed switch, pushed starter
NOTHING

took started off, stripped it down to find one of the 4 magnets has parted from casing

oh god I hate this bike

 

[dancata]

Thanks I followed that , battery on , by passed switch, pushed starter
NOTHING

took started off, stripped it down to find one of the 4 magnets has parted from casing

oh god I hate this bike

could it be because you forgot the engine locked while trying to start it?

make sure you remove the locking engine pin NOW, before you destroy another starter!

the click was coming from the starter trying to spin the flywhell wich was blocked by the pin.

 

[zdaveuk]

no did nt have a locking pin in

 

[Steptoe]

could it be because you forgot the engine locked while trying to start it?

make sure you remove the locking engine pin NOW, before you destroy another starter!

the click was coming from the starter trying to spin the flywhell wich was blocked by the pin.

What are you talking about. Your making no sense at all just confusing the matter.

I'd stop reading everything possible on the internet and reposting it as your advice.

Best only post about things you've actually done yourself.

 

[dancata]

What are you talking about. Your making no sense at all just confusing the matter.

I'd stop reading everything possible on the internet and reposting it as your advice.

Best only post about things you've actually done yourself.

happened to a friend with a 1100RT; had the locking pin inside when trying to start; we only heard a click, it was the flywheel hitting the pin;

when he removed the pin, the starter motor didn't do nothing, and 1 magnet was broken in half; that's how i now that you can fit magnets from opel 1.6 but with reversed polarity.

so, it happened to me, that's why i suggested the pin locking the engine.

thanks.

 

[Steptoe]

happened to a friend with a 1100RT; had the locking pin inside when trying to start; we only heard a click, it was the flywheel hitting the pin;

when he removed the pin, the starter motor didn't do nothing, and 1 magnet was broken in half; that's how i now that you can fit magnets from opel 1.6 but with reversed polarity.

so, it happened to me, that's why i suggested the pin locking the engine.

thanks.

Why would he have locked the flywheel to change a hall sensor ???????

I've never locked an engine in that way for 25 years

 

[dancata]

Why would he have locked the flywheel to change a hall sensor ???????

I've never locked an engine in that way for 25 years

because it was first time for my friend and 2nd time for me, we followed this article
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf

step 7 page 6.

otherwise, the engine will spin and the lower pulley screw does not come off.

thanks.

 

[Steptoe]

because it was first time for my friend and 2nd time for me, we followed this article
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/oilhead_hall_sensors.pdf

step 7 page 6.

otherwise, the engine will spin and the lower pulley screw does not come off.

thanks.

I like it "Step 7, Page 6" - Your big mistake is applying 15 page american logic and internet articles in the real world.

To undo the lower pulley nut, put a 16mm spanner socket or whatever onto the nut, hold the end of the socket/spanner, turn on the ignition and press the starter button for a nano second - Lo and behold the nut is undone without any force being felt in your hand.
To do it up put it in gear hold the rear brake and tighten.

I know it's not so impressive as an 10 page thesis with diagrams and intricate bullshite but i just like to get the job done simply with the minimum of fuss.

You have a nice day now.

 

[dancata]

I like it "Step 7, Page 6" - Your big mistake is applying 15 page american logic and internet articles in the real world.

To undo the lower pulley nut, put a 16mm spanner socket or whatever onto the nut, hold the end of the socket/spanner, turn on the ignition and press the starter button for a nano second - Lo and behold the nut is undone without any force being felt in your hand.
To do it up put it in gear hold the rear brake and tighten.

I know it's not so impressive as an 10 page thesis with diagrams and intricate bullshite but i just like to get the job done simply with the minimum of fuss.

You have a nice day now.

will keep this in mind for future HES jobs.

Thanks!