1200 lc oil level.

madmartin

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My gear shifting was pretty good i thought but not quite as good as my last boxer, hp2 sport. Anyway after reading shit loads of threads where owners have had trouble with there gearboxes i thought id apply some of the so called fixes to my 2013 lc. First fix was to lower the clutch fluid at the master cylinder,sorted. Next the engine oil level.... well well. Drained at least a pint and still the oil level a little above the red circle when the bike stood for 5mins after ragging it. Bike seems to shift well and no probs selecting neutral. Usual clack selecting first and first to second gear overly clunky but after that the box is magic. CHECK YOUR OIL LEVEL...
 
Good point madmartin. I think keeping those two levels in check will be something wethead owners will just need to do. The clutch level especially early on as it wears in, probably less so later maybe once a year.
 
2/3 of the way up the red circle seems about right.
 
Yes engineer. Im gonna drain a little more oil tomorrow. 2/3rd will be perfect. All that oil that was in there only bogs down those wet clutch plates. Also noticed after a mad thrash today that the lc loves clutchless upshifts ,gears 2 onwards. Takes a bit of practice. This bike really works when ridden hard. Shit for goin slow much like my hp2s. It loves to be reved. Does it the world of good,everything nice n smooth.
 
The oil on my 2014 was filled to the top red line at the 600 mile service, and my changes are butter smooth.:rob:hide

Just sayin!:augie:D
 
My 2013 GS has always been ok apart from the clonk into 1st - but it is definitely better when spanking it, throttle blipping on down changes is the smoothest way too.
 
Bmw have sat down looked at the competitions bikes and come to the conclusion that the new boxer engine has to be more powerful/sporting and this is what theyve done. This new engine loves 4k revs and more its made to be thrashed and i love ittttt. Could have done with another 15hp tho. Shame.
 
I also had the same idea about engine oil level being too high might cause a sticky clutch, so always make sure there is "daylight" between oil and the top mark. What is, however, behind the theory that lowering the clutch fluid level can help?
 
Yes engineer. Im gonna drain a little more oil tomorrow. 2/3rd will be perfect. .....

Remember - The recommended oil level between the high and low is when the engine is at operating temp ...and of course other measurements using a spirit level etc :D ... . Don't ask me what the operating temp is :D (there are four references to operating temp in the manual but no temp. readings. :confused: :eek )

/K
 
The oil on my 2014 was filled to the top red line at the 600 mile service, and my changes are butter smooth.:rob:hide

Just sayin!:augie:D


Which one would sir be referring to ?
And let's not forget that as a " Mod" you will have been given a special one !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
the next time you do an oil change , experiment with bottom of red circle , middle of red circle and then top of red circle.

.
 
Clutch fluid level too high is bad. In the master cylinder you must allow an air gap for expansion of said fluid. Also something to do with vacuum etc. This definately applies to brake master cylinders. Might try the trick of strapping the clutch lever to the handlebar grip overnight to relieve any air trapped in the hydraulics. Tip used by race mechanics.
 
From factory - 2 miles on the clock, engine cold/hot :augie
 

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