1989 BMW R100GS - Maintenance for Long Life?

[Simondo]

What do I need to do to extend the life of my (once) trusty GS? Can anyone recommend a list of mods?
I was preparing the bike for a 3000kms round trip to Siena, Tuscany, returning through Corsica. A week before I set off, it refused to start. We think it may be the transmission neutral switch.
Fearing further dramas on the road, I hired a Moto Guzzi V85tt. It worked well - a great round trip - without drama.
Time to buy a new bike? Maybe. But first, I decided: I want to inject some cash into my GS and get it properly looked over and parts replaced before they fail. I live in France so will be looking for a workshop/individual down here.

 

[Bubb]

Neutral switch is an easy fix.
Can be done with the engine in situ. Remove the silencer, remove collector box (or Y piece)
Prop up rear of engine with a car jack. Remove rear engine mount through bolt. This will leave a hollow tube which can be levered down with a long screwdriver or tyre lever.
This gives access to the neutral switch. Undo the two wire, replace switch ( use a new crush washer)
Replace wires to neutral switch.
Meanwhile, stitch the cross tube in the freezer to cool and shrink it a little.
When cold, refit cross tube ( easier when it’s cold as it’s slightly smaller then)
Replace engine mount through bolt.
Replace collector box and silencer. Remove car jack from under engine ( not strictly necessary I believe, but I would always do it for peace of mind)

Sit back with a cold beer and congratulate yourself on a job well done
( until you discover that it was something else that caused the lack of starting!)

Ride safe y’all.

 

[Gelandestrasse]

If it's the neutral switch it should start if you pull the clutch in.

A new wiring loom might be a good investment (BMW still sell them) but ignition switches tend to wear out and the relays (lights and starter relays) tend to fail after 30-40 years. Shoddy
An experienced airhead electrician looking over it for a few hours might be able to trace current (forgive the pun) and future faults and I happen to be available....

 

[Simondo]

Thanks for these wise words. I'll get on to them. I'm still keen to prolong this bike's life ( we go back a long way) so Tips on what needs looking at long term would be appreciated.

 

[Simondo]

Neutral switch is an easy fix.
Can be done with the engine in situ. Remove the silencer, remove collector box (or Y piece)
Prop up rear of engine with a car jack. Remove rear engine mount through bolt. This will leave a hollow tube which can be levered down with a long screwdriver or tyre lever.
This gives access to the neutral switch. Undo the two wire, replace switch ( use a new crush washer)
Replace wires to neutral switch.
Meanwhile, stitch the cross tube in the freezer to cool and shrink it a little.
When cold, refit cross tube ( easier when it’s cold as it’s slightly smaller then)
Replace engine mount through bolt.
Replace collector box and silencer. Remove car jack from under engine ( not strictly necessary I believe, but I would always do it for peace of mind)

Sit back with a cold beer and congratulate yourself on a job well done
( until you discover that it was something else that caused the lack of starting!)

Ride safe y’all.

Brilliant response - right up to cold beer.... Thanks!

 

[Stirlingmoz]

Neutral switch is an easy fix.
Can be done with the engine in situ. Remove the silencer, remove collector box (or Y piece)
Prop up rear of engine with a car jack. Remove rear engine mount through bolt. This will leave a hollow tube which can be levered down with a long screwdriver or tyre lever.
This gives access to the neutral switch. Undo the two wire, replace switch ( use a new crush washer)
Replace wires to neutral switch.
Meanwhile, stitch the cross tube in the freezer to cool and shrink it a little.
When cold, refit cross tube ( easier when it’s cold as it’s slightly smaller then)
Replace engine mount through bolt.
Replace collector box and silencer. Remove car jack from under engine ( not strictly necessary I believe, but I would always do it for peace of mind)

Sit back with a cold beer and congratulate yourself on a job well done
( until you discover that it was something else that caused the lack of starting!)

Ride safe y’all.

Don’t forget to drain the gearbox oil first

Oh, and I think you’ll find that is a 2 beer job

 

[Bubb]

Don’t forget to drain the gearbox oil first

Oh, and I think you’ll find that is a 2 beer job

Two beers is being greedy!
But then I’ve always been greedy!

 

[oldenoughtoknowbetter]

Some might differ, but the greatest improvement I've ever made to my '89 GS was a Wedgetail ignition trigger system. (Can you still get them?)
Starting at all temperatures is instant and I reckon the engine's as smooth as an air-cooled boxer could ever be.
There's one or two niggles with Wedgetails on Advrider but I think many of those problems encountered involved punctured diaphragms, bad earthing or plug leads etc etc.
Mine's been on for around two years and so far it's been great. And if you fit one, pop on an uprated alternator at the same time. Another great mod.

 

[MikeH101]

I was able to purchase a Wedgetail from the Europen distributor and imported to UK, since Motobins stopped selling them. No problem if living in France ,obviously. I upgraded the alternator with an Enduralast at the same time. All good!

 

[ChasF]

The first thing I did when I bought my 1989 GS new was to fit a white power rear shock and ride to Cape Town 2 up. I still have it and it has now become my main bike having sold off the heavier bikes. Still get used regularly (avatar photo was taken in the Alps back in May). Maintenance wise I tend to deal with issues as they crop up apart from very regular oil changes but still happy to go anywhere, any distance and have so far not had too many issues. Planning to do some work on the cosmetic this coming winter.

 

[Kenny]

Motorworks sell them

 

[theoneandonly]

cut your service intervals down by 1k miles . so if 6k you do at 5 k . ( i do my bikes every 5k , makes it easier to remember round numbers )
you catch faults earlier , and don't run dirty oil for that last 1k miles .
i also have boxes with cables and stuff in them so if something dies , i can fix it straight away .

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

 

[oldnfat]

Having had a broken clutch cable let me down in Portugal (to be fair it had done 20 years or so service) inspect/change cables as part of preventative maintenance. I know people will come on here and say you should do this anyway but I wonder how many people take the cable out and inspect for cable cracking around the nipples (ooh err)….or is it just me

 

[Bubb]

Having had a broken clutch cable let me down in Portugal (to be fair it had done 20 years or so service) inspect/change cables as part of preventative maintenance. I know people will come on here and say you should do this anyway but I wonder how many people take the cable out and inspect for cable cracking around the nipples (ooh err)….or is it just me

I carry a spare clutch cable with me on the bike, as if it breaks, it’s always at the most inopportune time/place….
Last time I had a clutch cable break was in the dark, and it was raining….but five minutes to fit new cable had me on my way …..and remembered to order a spare once I got home!

 

[scooter paul]

I carry a spare clutch cable with me on the bike, as if it breaks, it’s always at the most inopportune time/place….
Last time I had a clutch cable break was in the dark, and it was raining….but five minutes to fit new cable had me on my way …..and remembered to order a spare once I got home!

For an Airhead all you need to carry is a spare inner cable with the correct sized barrel nipple to fit the clutch lever and a solderless nipple of the correct shape for the clutch arm end. I think Venhill stocks a repair kit as described. In an emergency without your own spare a bicycle shop is a good source of spare inners.

 

[monoi]

I live west of Narbonne so we're neighbours...My 100 GS is running well although rarely used. If you fancy a meet some day, let me know.