1999 R1150GS Issues

Welshman

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I have a few transmission issues:
No I cannot visit St Eptoe, I am a few thousand miles away:beerjug:
1. The gearbox rumbles at tickover, rumble goes if clutch in.
2. On hard acceleration off the line clutch does not bite proper:barf
3. Clutch does not slip in 5th or 6th under power.

So I am busy "delving" photobucket is bugerring around so no pics,

4: Drained box gonna strain oil to see if any debris.
5: Stripped off shaft and swing arm.
6: Removed clutch slave soaked in oil inside?
clutch022.jpg
photo working

Any advice so far? :beer:
 
Push rod seal is FUBAR or check the slave cylinder by observing whether your master cylinder fluid is still at your desired level.
I presume you're sure you know that the fluid on your slave cylinder is gearbox oil and not hydraulic fluid.

I'd reckon on a buggered slave cylinder myself, especially if you haven't been replacing your clutch fluid frequently. I replaced one at around 54K miles this year on an 04 1150GSA.

BTW, no need to remove the rear end. :blast

It looks a bit dusty there.
 
Push rod seal is FUBAR or check the slave cylinder by observing whether your master cylinder fluid is still at your desired level.
I presume you're sure you know that the fluid on your slave cylinder is gearbox oil and not hydraulic fluid.

I'd reckon on a buggered slave cylinder myself, especially if you haven't been replacing your clutch fluid frequently. I replaced one at around 54K miles this year on an 04 1150GSA.

BTW, no need to remove the rear end. :blast

It looks a bit dusty there.

Rear end removed as I wanted to take out gearbox, now I am not sure:beer:

Good news is the crankcase seal area shows no sign of oil, so do not have to delve in there; yep you have your mud we have dust, practically no rain for the winter months
 
6: Removed clutch slave soaked in oil inside?
Any advice so far? :beer:

Nothing to do with the slave cylinder.

That will be the small gearbox seal needs replacing - it sits in the bottom of slave cylinder tunnel in the gearbox, tiny little thing.
Gear oil is leaking past into the tunnel, which fills up and then the oil runs along the clutch pushrod onto the clutch.

The input shaft, output end seal.
 
Nothing to do with the slave cylinder.

That will be the small gearbox seal needs replacing - it sits in the bottom of slave cylinder tunnel in the gearbox, tiny little thing.
Gear oil is leaking past into the tunnel, which fills up and then the oil runs along the clutch pushrod onto the clutch.

The input shaft, output end seal.

Thats a bugger, cos if you pull the clutch lever to see if the slave leaks it shoots the circlip holding the piston somewhere into the darkest corner of the garage, dont ask:blast

So if it doesnt slip in 5th 6th I could relace friction plate only probably?:beer:
 
OK, so a happy little punter here, pulled the gearbox, the pushrod was only slightly oily but I will replace the seal and the slave

clutch025.jpg


The magnetic plug had some debris, but expected from a previous issue with shifting linkage:D

clutch027.jpg

The splines were dry as a bone, but in good nick I was worried about those:D
clutch033.jpg


clutch034.jpg

clutch032.jpg

But clutch plate was down to around 5mm so definitely needs a swap out, generally happy with general condition no input output seals or spline issues:beerjug:
:thumb
 
Don't just replace the plate - do the complete clutch or you'll be doing it again much sooner than you'd like.
 
Don't just replace the plate - do the complete clutch or you'll be doing it again much sooner than you'd like.

Whilst I agree in principle, the plate is at 4.7mm just checked and it still works except hard off the line, so a diaphragm spring and plate seemed reasonable, I am at a mile above sea level here so the old porker is about 15% down on power:D
 
Nothing to do with the slave cylinder.

That will be the small gearbox seal needs replacing - it sits in the bottom of slave cylinder tunnel in the gearbox, tiny little thing.
Gear oil is leaking past into the tunnel, which fills up and then the oil runs along the clutch pushrod onto the clutch.

The input shaft, output end seal.

The fiche parts lists show a felt seal and a rebate in the pushrod, my pushrod doesnt have a rebate? was this only on later models? Any tips on getting that little seal out?:beer:
 
Sound advice to replace whole clutch and not just the friction plate, it may appear ok now but you may regret it in 10k miles :rob
 
Whilst I agree in principle, the plate is at 4.7mm just checked and it still works except hard off the line, so a diaphragm spring and plate seemed reasonable, I am at a mile above sea level here so the old porker is about 15% down on power:D

The clutrch cover plate and pressure plate will be worn smooth.

If you use the old cover/pressure plates you'll have a slipping clutch again in about 5K miles, and the chances are you'll have to replace the friction plate again when you fit the other parts as it'll be glazed and worn by being in contact with the old parts .
So no saving to be made by not renewing the old parts. But it's your biike and your choice.
 
The clutrch cover plate and pressure plate will be worn smooth.

If you use the old cover/pressure plates you'll have a slipping clutch again in about 5K miles, and the chances are you'll have to replace the friction plate again when you fit the other parts as it'll be glazed and worn by being in contact with the old parts .
So no saving to be made by not renewing the old parts. But it's your biike and your choice.


Thanks, I had already made the leap and ordered a full kit, any idea on that felt seal ? :hide
 
Thanks, I had already made the leap and ordered a full kit, any idea on that felt seal ? :hide

Someone chirped me, check the hydraulic line as well "they corrode", I said "we are in Jo,burg" nothing rusts here, then I checked!

clutch040.jpg


Oh kark!! :blast
 
Someone chirped me, check the hydraulic line as well "they corrode", I said "we are in Jo,burg" nothing rusts here, then I checked!

Oh kark!! :blast

Did they happen to chirp that GSA's have a braided hose which is marginally better at preventing water ingress to the sheathed end of the banjo. :thumb
 
Did they happen to chirp that GSA's have a braided hose which is marginally better at preventing water ingress to the sheathed end of the banjo. :thumb


Something like that, I had all my braided brake hoses made up locally, so I will try that route first:D
 


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