2002 R1150GS - diary of an accidental full restoration

That was my thinking.

I’ll potentially have to spray the gearbox as a separate job to the main engine cases though, but that’s not a big issue.

Any advice regarding airbox removal would be great! I’ve got the workshop manual so will have a read up there too
 
Nin said:
Yeah that’s how I did mine. But tbh you may as well take it off and get it blasted and powder coated.
Click to expand...
Yep, I’ve got a mounting pile of black bits to take to my local firm. They did a great job on the Pan so it’s an easy decision for me. I’ll get the rear end gubbins off over the next week or so and see where I’m up to by then.

How did you get your airbox off Nin? Did you do it as per the book, with the front end in place?
 
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And whilst I was there, and part of this dissassembly, was to change the hydrualic clutch hose for the Adventure / Braided type with stainless steel fittings.
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And also, whilst doing this, the paralever was also removed because the lower shock bolt had snapped.
Since then, there has been an upgrade to these bolts and the BMW supplied item, p/n 07 12 9 907 435 has a torx head.
These bolts seem to now bend instead of snap.
I keep on in my spares kit because it has a bend in it every time I remove it, and so install a new bolt.
(but that is a whole new topic thread) shareing here because if you are that far in to it, may as well, change the bolt.
It is a critical item!

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MaxBMW are an excellent resource for parts, part numbers, to see where fit and attaching parts.
I have looked at the RealOEM pages, but too much clutter to me.

BMW Motorcycle Parts | Catalog Parts Online | MAX BMW Motorcycles

MAX BMW Motorcycles offers an extensive BMW Motorcycle Parts fiche. OEM BMW Motorcycle Parts and Accessores can be ordered online for fast delivery. View our detailed BMW Motorcycle Parts diagrams and locate the part that you need efficiently.
shop.maxbmw.com

Getting parts from them has been easy for me as well (am in Australia)
for larger projects and the like, I shop around, compare the prices and then order appropriatly.

Euromotoelectrics are also an excellent provider too
Thats my experience, and shipping to Aus has been super fast as well

 
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A little more progress tonight. Took off the pannier rails and the rotten givi mounting plate. Despite basting them in WD40 I still unfortunately ended snapping one of the top plate mounting bolts going into the sheet steel support plate - it was coming out too! Hopefully I can either drill it out on my pillar drill or fabricate a replacement plate.

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I had to shock all four of the support plate mounting bolts by putting an Allen bit into them and hitting them hard. Three came nicely enough, but one just stripped the Allan head. Who’s idea was it at Givi to give a deeply countersunk 6mm bolt a 4mm Allan head?

Anyway, plan B was employed - hammer a cheap sacrificial T25 torq bit into the now rounded recess and pray…..


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Success!

I’ll continue stripping the rear end and foot rests this week. It’s half term next week, so I’m off work - hoping to get the bike in a position where I can think about masking off for paint by the end of it!
 
I did an 1150 about 5 years ago. I did much the same as you. I had everything that was removable powder coated. From memory the engine,gearbox bottom of the forks, and anything that was originally silver I sprayed myself. Bit of advice if you don't mind, you can buy 2 pack spray paint now in a can. Most car parts shop make it up. You simply pull a tab at the bottom and it releases the hardener. Also spray the airbox and tank side panels they'll look shite even when cleaned up against all the other newly painted bits. Best of luck with the project
 
Thanks Dub! I’ve got the same plan for now - take the black bits to my local powder coating firm and spray the silver myself. However, I’m considering also taking the front swing arm and rear rack thing (the big silver metal lump) to be powder coated in silver for speed and convenience.

I was going to use enamel paint over primer. I’ve not used 2k paint before - but heard it’s quite unforgiving. How did you find it? Do you have any pics of the final job at all?

I can see what you mean about the airbox looking nasty. My only concern is the paint peeling off over time…..

Cheers
Mike
 
Thread '2003 1150GS Adventure rebuild' https://www.ukgser.com/community/threads/2003-1150gs-adventure-rebuild.297861/
Here is a link to mine
From just re-reading mine a few more pieces of advice if you don't mind

The under tray at the back wheel, the starter motor cover ,and the indicators,handguards and front beak cover on top of dash and anything else that's plastic spray them trust me they'll look shite otherwise.

The 2k is piss easy to use and the nozzles are adjustable so better than the cheap 1k paint.

Yep for sure powdercoat everything metal including telever, foot peg hangers gearshift and rear brake pedal.

Take the time to spray your self the top of clutch and brake reservoir covers.

Replace clutch slave cylinder while your there.

Send Shocks to Denz0 off here ,he can rebuild oem Shocks. Trust me worth doing

Paint on plastics won't peel make sure to use plastic primer and some build primer on anything that needs tidying
Secret to good finish is prep and light sanding between all coats

Replace all bolts with brand new stainless steel. The old rusty tatty ones will again look shite against the freshly painted stuff
Give me a shout if you need any advice. I'll PM my mobile number as it's easier to reply via WhatsApp
Cheers
 
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Cheers Dub! I rebuilt a very sorry Pan European a few years ago, doing everything you suggested. You can see her lurking in my photos! Satin black for the brake/clutch master cylinders is also on my to-do list - same for the handlebar clamps.

I keep the bolts and various fixings in labeled ziplock bags as they come off. There’s a hardware store down the road from me who sells stainless fasteners. I keep a good selection of 6mm ones in stock in my garage, but I’ll be going in with a shopping list for whatever I need when I start reassembly.
 
Pan, Blackbird and a CBR600/Blade(?)......you are clearly a fan of Honda.

If you are refitting bolts into alloy that don't require loctite such as front engine cover bolts, I'd recommend painting some dielectric paint on the threads and under the bolt heads before fitting to prevent "galvanic corrosion" (battery effect) between the dissimilar metals when they get wet, especially if you use stainless steel bolts.

My early 2004 R1200GS alloy front engine cover rotted away from new with corrosion creeping everywhere and had a replacement fitted under warranty, I then used some "Starbrite" dielectric paint (sold as a liquid electrical tape) from a yacht chandlers with A4 marine grade stainless replacement bolts I used in place of the steel BMW items and it stopped future corrosion stone dead in its tracks.


A little goes a long way and its useful for sealing electrical connectors, I had the tin for years. Stainless into alloy in the presence of salt water is never a good thing.

Keep up the rebuild report, great to see the bike turn around bit by bit from a shed on wheels to a tidy example, I'm really looking forward to the finished job pictures. :thumb2
 
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Mike I had both a 1300 Pan and a Blackbird in my stable right before I defected to BMW. The Pan was for commuting and trips and the Blackbird was for fun and trips as well. My Pan was a 2005 model. I bought it in 2008 and commuted till 2016 all year round in all weather. The only bit of corrosion was a tiny bit on the hub and stone chips to the bottom of the forks. Much better build quality than BMW for sure
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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