2007 GSA wont start! Help Needed, please

Heisenberg

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Ok, here goes....
2007 GSA, fails to show any lights - no ignition. Must be the ignition switch I think....disconnect negative lead at battery, remove securing shroud from ignition switch, separate both connectors, spray copius WD40 in male/female connectors. Spray further WD40 down the ignition barrel.

Turn key about 100 times (slight embellishment) and away we go, we have a full display and its ready to go. Hooray!

However, press the start button and "CLICK". Hard to tell if it is coming from starter or not (solenoid should be fine and throwing in). Then I get an error display on dash - the small engine shaped error???? Eventually get an EWS error, but only once.

Now, full display every time, but just the dreaded "CLICK" every time to go with it. Any ideas guys?

PS: Already over one hour late for work, and it's raining!

Thanks in advance
 
Before you do anything make sure you clean and re-tighten the lead you took off the battery
 
Thanks

Thanks for prompt response. Going to head out and see if it jumps off. Battery is a recent one, and with the multimeter is showing a constant 11.38v, so suspect it is ok.

Good call on checking the lead though. I am heading out in the rain to re-check the lead and see if jumping it works.

Back in a few minutes........

Thanks again.
 
Thanks for prompt response. Going to head out and see if it jumps off. Battery is a recent one, and with the multimeter is showing a constant 11.38v, so suspect it is ok.

Good call on checking the lead though. I am heading out in the rain to re-check the lead and see if jumping it works.

Back in a few minutes........

Thanks again.

Batteries had it, voltage you see is with no load on it, try starting and it will drop to nought.
 
Battery deffo shagged , My mate had the very same problem last week . turns out his optimate had dried the battery cells out over the winter . :beerjug:
 
AND If you are going to Jump it from a car ???? Or a battery pack or a battery on the ground ??

Positive can go on the battery !!!

BUT With modern motorcycles and cars you MUST use the negative on the vehicle "Mass" So if it has an exhaust clamp or an earth point on the motor use that

It's to do with the shagged battery and a couple of things that I know about

Number one and INCREDIBLY BAD for electronics Voltage Spike or Surge

Number two if the battery has a dead short and you try charging it can be bad for your other power source and if it's bad enough the bikes battery could go bang !!

11.38 no load It's F******
 
Jumping it defo worked, got it started and she runs fine.
Left it running and then switched off. tried it a couple of times and she starts just fine. You all seem unanimous that battery is fecked. However until the ignition switch problem this morning it has never once failed or showed signs of a flat battery.

I would rather than fork out for a battery if I can get away with it. Any multimeter tests I can run to make certain before I rush out to buy a new one? Also, if I buy a new battery and throw it on, do I need to do some sort of re-set or will just swap straight over and fire up?


you're all legends, thank you.
 
As it starts again after you have run the bike it sounds to charging ok you can confirm it with your meter set to volts dc bike running should be around 14.4v.The other thing you could check is to see if anything is draining from the battery when the bike is switched off.
 
I think it's something to do with the cold but the jury is out on that one

Seriously go and get it tested by a proper battery distributor or a factors with a battery tester

Be Warned if it is fecked Voltage spikes that you can;t see or know about can screw up the main ecu main ecu has keys coded to it If it F**** up you have to get a second hand one and replacement locks =£300 plus
 


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