A slightly different fuel strip question.

Another option to the fuel strip

This is a VDO 10 to 180 Ohm fuel gauge sender unit costs £15, Remove the leg from it's five hole mounting flange and bolt it to the GS fuel pump/strip flange.

$_35.JPG


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391172958393?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

This is a 10 to 180 Ohm oil pressure gauge that reads 0 to 100 Costs £20 and will work with any 10 to 180 signal.
Its 35mm diameter so will fit neatly on the bike. (Available in various colours). Simply swap the oil pressure sender for the fuel level sender and its all good. If the level reads the 100 when empty, just swap the float arm to the other side of the pivot.

37mm-Electrical-Digital-Red-LCD-Display-Racing-Car-Oil-Press-Pressure-Gauge-Meter-With-Sensor-Purple.jpg


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171427706175?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

The gauge sender "should" fit nicely under the left hand side fuel tank inspection cover. I've not yet tried to see if it will work but it does look promising.

Now go to Advrider and search for "fuel strip spoof" and you'll find instruction to get rid of the yellow triangle.
 
This is a VDO 10 to 180 Ohm fuel gauge sender unit costs £15, Remove the leg from it's five hole mounting flange and bolt it to the GS fuel pump/strip flange.

$_35.JPG


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391172958393?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

This is a 10 to 180 Ohm oil pressure gauge that reads 0 to 100 Costs £20 and will work with any 10 to 180 signal.
Its 35mm diameter so will fit neatly on the bike. (Available in various colours). Simply swap the oil pressure sender for the fuel level sender and its all good. If the level reads the 100 when empty, just swap the float arm to the other side of the pivot.

37mm-Electrical-Digital-Red-LCD-Display-Racing-Car-Oil-Press-Pressure-Gauge-Meter-With-Sensor-Purple.jpg


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171427706175?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

The gauge sender "should" fit nicely under the left hand side fuel tank inspection cover. I've not yet tried to see if it will work but it does look promising.

Now go to Advrider and search for "fuel strip spoof" and you'll find instruction to get rid of the yellow triangle.

Definately looks good in theory.
Are you going to brave it and have a go?

Is there a way this gauge sender and gauge display could be connected up to this:
dsc_3353_6.jpg

Its a float for a 2012 R1200GS.
 
Nice idea and it should physically fit.

Aftermarket fuel (and pressure) gauges need to see 10 to 180 ohm, so the OEM TC sender would need to be resistance tested.

I intend to give the float idea a try. However. looking at the Eprom, the RHS cover is full of fuel pump so fitting the VDO float might not be as simple as it might seem. Time will tell when I get a proper look.
 
I did this with a pole type sliding float gauge. It works fine, but I also removed the old fuel strip which affected the way fuel level is used to boost pump power when the tank level is low. All was fine while the strip indicated an empty fuel tank. But a week after fitting the new gauge, I ran out of fuel with about 8 litres still i the tank. Unfortunately I damaged the old fuel strip so cant put it back to prove the point.

It did show that I had a weak fuel pump. Easily replaced with one of these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121906385116?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
I think my second fuel strip could be on the way out, on starting the bike yesterday for the commute home all was well, then the sudden fuel warning and yellow triangle followed by a steadily falling fuel range from 140 miles. Oddly it stopped at about 85 miles and the triangle/warning cleared itself. Could it be impending failure ??



Also removed the fuel tank today for my low sump oil spurious display which seems to happen daily. Bridged pins 45 and 40 at the BMS-K connector and proved continuity from sump level sensor to ecu, also proved sensor switch continuity. If it hasn't cleared the fault I suspect a dry joint inside the BMS-K unit. Anybody had one in bits ??
 
Does the controller not reduce the pump output when full output is not required??
So the pump is not running full pelt when you are just cruising to tesco?

I think it does. But it also seems that low fuel level will run the pump at higher power. That way there's enough flow to drive the ejector pump that empties the tank RHS. What was wrong with a link pipe under the tank is anyone's guess. Then again, Harley do that - we cant be copying them can we(?)
 
I think my second fuel strip could be on the way out, on starting the bike yesterday for the commute home all was well, then the sudden fuel warning and yellow triangle followed by a steadily falling fuel range from 140 miles. Oddly it stopped at about 85 miles and the triangle/warning cleared itself. Could it be impending failure
I had a new strip fitted in Sept 2015, it did what you said a few days later then worked fine again, it was checked by the dealer and no problem was found.
10 months later it failed again and was replaced under warranty,
6 weeks and 5,000 miles later it failed again and was replaced under warranty,
I now have 10 months of the 2 year warranty left, so at least if it fails again I will get 4 strips for the price of one,
I am very glad I didn't try to save a little money by buying a cheaper strip to fit myself as I would now have had to buy 3 in just over a year,
 
Thanks Gazza, I guess I shall just refill with fuel tomorrow for the weeks commute and see what happens. My current fuel strip is about three years old. (I also hope the nuisance oil level warning is resolved, but I'm not holding my breath.)

If it fails I'll buy a new fuel strip from Bahnstormers and use my GS911 to recalibrate it.
 
I have a working stick float sender unit and now looking at getting it to drive the original fuel level connection. Some trimmer potentiometers are on order to do some playing about.

BTW, the mileage trip is still a handy back stop but also bit crap when the speedo sender throws a tantrum. These bikes really do need both.
 
Hi...i am a new user here. In my case I made a zapper that makes a lovely strong arc at the end of the wires with spade connectors.With a full tank I connected my zapper to the two middle terminals of the fuel strip socket on the outer of the fuel pump.It isn't arcing outside the tank anywhere, so must be taking the path of least resistance inside somewhere.
 
Sadly, despite many attempts, zapping my fuel strip has not worked.
I made a zapper that makes a lovely strong arc at the end of the wires with spade connectors.
With a full tank I connected my zapper to the two middle terminals of the fuel strip socket on the outer of the fuel pump.

It isn't arcing outside the tank anywhere, so must be taking the path of least resistance inside somewhere.

I'm going to wait until my fuel has dropped to near empty and take the strip out and try again. Hopefully I'll be able to see where the arc is taking place (or not).
Bugger and balls!:mad:

Hi...i am a new user here. In my case I made a zapper that makes a lovely strong arc at the end of the wires with spade connectors.With a full tank I connected my zapper to the two middle terminals of the fuel strip socket on the outer of the fuel pump.It isn't arcing outside the tank anywhere, so must be taking the path of least resistance inside somewhere.

Did you just quote the above post, what exactly are you asking?
 
The fuel step has two copper tracks inside a mylar sheath. One is a heater the other a sensor. Fuel cools the strip so the sensed resistance changes with fuel height.
No moving parts but those used by BMW are notoriously not reliable.
One or both copper tracks will fail. Zapping gets them going again but they eventually pack up altogether.
My sliding float gauge works fine but being entirely separate doesn't have any effect on how the fuel pump controller works.


Sent somehow.
 


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