A Wander’ette to Mortlake

Wapping

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It was all that big boy’s idea, Miss. That Other PaulG….

As with going camping in February, the best ideas hatch over beers. The visit to Mortlake was just that. I had met with Paul at the HAC, where he’d told me about a real London oddity I had never heard of. We planned on visiting it.

Buried away in a Catholic churchyard there is a Victorian mausoleum. But not any old mausoleum, as it holds the remains of one of Britain’s greatest explorers and that of his wife. The explorer is none other than Sir Richard Burton, who through the mid-to-late 1800’s opened up and explored much of what was to become coloured pink on a map of Africa and far beyond. Most notable amongst his achievements was to stage an attempt to find the source of the Nile and be a westerner attending the Haj, in disguise.

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His mausoleum (it’s styled as a tent) evidences his explorer life, with a mixture of Christianity (his wife was a fervent Catholic) along with its nod to Moorish and Moslem influences.

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It is possible to climb a small steel ladder and see inside, the two coffins lying side-by-side, reunited in death.

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Our pilgrimage to Britain’s imperial past done, we decamped to quite a good pub for lunch. The place would make a good rendezvous site for a future SE Area Tossers’ get-together.


All in all, a simple but good day out in London.

PS How great to have your mausoleum and final resting place, erected by your ‘Loving countrymen’.
 
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During our visit to Burton’s mausoleum, we wondered what the reference to Burton “….touching Camoen’s lute” might mean. Naturally, this produced a little schoolboys’ tittering.

After a bit of digging around in Google and half a guess that it would be some typical Victorian reference to the classics, I have worked out that it references Burton’s translation of The Lusiads.

This left me wondering what The Lusiads were and who Camoe was. Another hunt through Google turned up the answers. It’s a Portuguese classic, whilst Camoe is regarded as Portugal’s greatest poet:



Every day a school day.

That left me wondering who Justin Huntly McCarthy (who penned the eulogy to Burton) was. He too had to be a Victorian, a peer and friend of Burton. Again, Google held the answer:


It is easy to see the link between Burton and McCarthy, both of them translating Arabic texts and classics. From the eulogy, it is also easy to see that McCarthy held Burton in high regard, both as an heroic explorer and as a polymath.

Having undone the mystery, I was then left with finding out about Burton’s translation from the original Portuguese into English of the epic, which runs into two volumes. Here the tale becomes intertwined with that of Burton’s wife (herself, a polymath) as she edited Burton’s huge work for publication. The preface to the two volumes and the words of his wife are, in a way, interesting, too. Just as interesting are Burton’s own words in the volumes’ preface, along with Burton’s dedication of his 20 years of work to the Emperor of Brazil. A look into a very different world.

 
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Welcome.

The Victorians, as evidenced by the huge London museums (and indeed the Great Exhibition) were interested in the natural world and in opening up (literally in some cases) the world to the British population, believing that it reflected well on the monarch and the nation as a whole. It was, if you like, a natural progression from the Renaissance and the Ages of Enlightenment and Discovery. Whether it was always ‘A good thing’ (as they say in 1066 and all that) can be debated forever. For certain, it wasn’t always all bad.

From an earlier time but from when the drive for knowledge and a mixing of science, arts and culture (a polymath) was accelerated, I can recommend a book. It’s The Lunar Men, by Jenny Uglow, who also wrote an excellent book on the cracking of the seemingly impossible task of establishing longitude.
 


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