ABS flashing after autocom attempt

[Pod]

Hi guys,

I'm newish to this Beemer stuff so bear with me.

I have an r1150gs on a y plate 2001 - with brembo calipers and ABS

I recently fitted an autocom to the bike, and wired it up to the rear light - thinking that it would be fine. However, the Abs wouldn't work after that so I did a bit of searching on here and after disconnecting the autocom, I did the reset procedure ass described by MiGSel. I tried numerous times, and it's still doing the same thing.

I'm beginning to realise how complicated these beasts are now.
Am I being stupid and missing something obvious? The ignition was on for quite a while when I was searching for the wire and checking it was live when fitting the autocom - so the battery could have taken a hit - but its generally kept hooked up to an optimate, and used often too.

Help me please.

Chris

 

[sani]

Hi guys,

I'm newish to this Beemer stuff so bear with me.

I have an r1150gs on a y plate 2001 - with brembo calipers and ABS

I recently fitted an autocom to the bike, and wired it up to the rear light - thinking that it would be fine. However, the Abs wouldn't work after that so I did a bit of searching on here and after disconnecting the autocom, I did the reset procedure ass described by MiGSel. I tried numerous times, and it's still doing the same thing.

I'm beginning to realise how complicated these beasts are now.
Am I being stupid and missing something obvious? The ignition was on for quite a while when I was searching for the wire and checking it was live when fitting the autocom - so the battery could have taken a hit - but its generally kept hooked up to an optimate, and used often too.

Help me please.

Chris

Try to fit the autocom before you start the bike. The ABS light it well flash un til the bike is moving. Try to conect the Autocom direct to the Battery not to the rear light,also check the rear light bulb.

 

[Pod]

Try to fit the autocom before you start the bike. The ABS light it well flash un til the bike is moving. Try to conect the Autocom direct to the Battery not to the rear light,also check the rear light bulb.

Hi Sani, Thanks for the reply.
Autocom isn't connected any more, and I've been using the bike without it. I wanted to try and get the abs sorted before attempting to cock it up again if you see what I mean. Currently the Abs lights are alternately flashing all the time, and wont reset - even after a small ride/stop/ignition off then on/ and ride off again.
The rear light bulb is working ok - what is there to check on it?



ta

Chris

 

[Fanum]

I did precisely the same when I first got my 1150Adv and fitted my autocom...that rear supply is attractively available isn't it

Rewire it to the battery direct, or pick up a supply from in the fuse box.

Then go back to the connection you made to the rear light supply and re-make it properly....it's quite sensitive to resistance (It's what tells the system that a bulb is gone so the brain switches to the other filament on a lower voltage and it tells you this via the warning lights) and the chances are the connection isn't good now.

HTH

PS You can't tell from looking at the rear if a bulb isn't working- as I said above, it switches to using the other filament for both running and brakes......check the actual filament itself by taking it out )

 

[Pod]

I did precisely the same when I first got my 1150Adv and fitted my autocom...that rear supply is attractively available isn't it

Rewire it to the battery direct, or pick up a supply from in the fuse box.

Then go back to the connection you made to the rear light supply and re-make it properly....it's quite sensitive to resistance (It's what tells the system that a bulb is gone so the brain switches to the other filament on a lower voltage and it tells you this via the warning lights) and the chances are the connection isn't good now.

HTH

PS You can't tell from looking at the rear if a bulb isn't working- as I said above, it switches to using the other filament for both running and brakes......check the actual filament itself by taking it out )

It was soldered directly to the wire, and there is still some solder left on it. Could that be causing it??????

Its a bit sensitive if it is! I'll check the bulb then......

Ta

Chris

 

[Fanum]

If you didn't break the wire then that should be fine...just check it hasn't let moisture in and corroded there.

Do check the bulb filament as well though.....it can be hard to spot but it's actually a pretty clever and sensible system

 

[Pod]

Ok Fanum,

Will do.

Ta very much.

Chris

 

[sani]

Hi Sani, Thanks for the reply.
Autocom isn't connected any more, and I've been using the bike without it. I wanted to try and get the abs sorted before attempting to cock it up again if you see what I mean. Currently the Abs lights are alternately flashing all the time, and wont reset - even after a small ride/stop/ignition off then on/ and ride off again.
The rear light bulb is working ok - what is there to check on it?



ta

Chris

You maybe need to reset the ABS switch button and ahe look to the fuse box if this not help contact you BMW dealer.

 

[Pod]

You maybe need to reset the ABS switch button and ahe look to the fuse box if this not help contact you BMW dealer.

I've changed the bulb this morning, and checked that both filaments are working - they are.......Other than that everything is as it was before.... Flashing away.
The bulb I took off looked fine, no breaks in the filaments.

How do you reset the ABS Switch?
How much will it cost to get some Bavarian mechanic to reset it?
I'm a bit skint at the mo.

TA
Chris

 

[John Armstrong]

Is this what you're looking for: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92282&highlight=reset

 

[Pod]

Is this what you're looking for: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92282&highlight=reset

Thanks John, but no, I dont think so..
It was what sani said - it sounded like there was something else I could try as well as this - Maybe not?

I'm going to try this again tonight anyway - before resorting to The germans.

Chris

 

[sani]

Thanks John, but no, I dont think so..
It was what sani said - it sounded like there was something else I could try as well as this - Maybe not?

I'm going to try this again tonight anyway - before resorting to The germans.

Chris

Where do you live maybe I can come to help you?

 

[Fanum]

Thanks John, but no, I dont think so..
It was what sani said - it sounded like there was something else I could try as well as this - Maybe not?

I'm going to try this again tonight anyway - before resorting to The germans.

Chris

If it's not that procedure as in John's link (post 2 on that thread) then there's a couple more things you can try before taking it to a dealer.

With the bike OFF, operate the hand brake lever and the foot brake lever with your ear up close to each (one at a time obviously )

Listen for the micro-switch.....it's very quiet but it's quite distinct....if you don't hear it, the switch is either not working or it's already on.....clean all contacts, play with the levers (particularly the foot one) and see if you can get it clicking.
(I had a faulty foot switch a while back which exhibited the same symptoms again )

The switch on the rear brake is pretty easy to access but also prone to damage and dirt, so it could easily be that.

Also check the ABS rings....I can't remember the distance the sensor is supposed to be from the ring but take a close look and spin the wheels (you'll need a jack or a second person to do this) ...if the sensor or rings are out of alignment, it'll be pretty obvious (the rings do wear on the bushes or they can get damaged from upflung stones but to be honest this is really unlikely)

 

[Pod]

Sorted,

I did the abs reset again last night, and bazarrely it worked first time!
I can only think that it was either the bulb - which I swapped in the morning yesterday (but it looked fine) or I wasn't getting decent enough contacts when doing the reset.

Thanks for all your help guys, and offers of help

Cheers

Chris

Just of to fit the autocom again now......












Only joking - did it to the horn fuse wire last night. No interference with the ABS WOOHOOO!

 

[Pod]

Its all ballsed up again!



So......

I went out for a ride on sunday, and about an hour after calling in to meet a mate (turned bike off - and back on whilst there) the abs fault came back. It came back when riding - doing about 30mph, and not using brakes.

So - since then I have done more searching on here and done the following; -
Brakes were spongy so I have bled both calipers and the Abs unit: - The abs unit had air in it.
I checked the sensors, and the front is on the maximum limit gap - i've no idea how to adjust that though. Back is within limits.
I checked the micro switch noises - and both are working.
Front pads are a bit on the worn side - does the abs check that?
Rear pads are ok.
Rear bulb was working on both filaments ie sidelight and brake are as normal.
Taken blue relay out and cleaned contacts - no difference (could this be buggered?)

All this done and reset will give 2 solid lights when the abs button's released. ignition off then on again - back to alternating flashes.



Autocom works though - on the positive side.

Chris

 

[DrFarkoff]

:
All this done and reset will give 2 solid lights when the abs button's released. ignition off then on again - back to alternating flashes.

Autocom works though - on the positive side.

Chris

Hey Chris If the ABS lamps flash alternately prior to you pressing the starter button you have a system fault
Usually the low battery one will only make itself known after you push the start button

Check and clean you connections and make sure that the wires are not bent sharply back on themselves If the front airgap is near max the system will not know until you pull away and exceed 5 kmh for 15 metres. You adjust them by removing or adding "shims" as per part 3 in the picture below

Better to get it diagnosed if cleaning the connections and adjusting the airgaps does not cure it! It could be as simple as a buggered sensor approx£40 2nd hand from the usual suspects, be careful removing te screws IF they're tight get a load of boiling water opver the alloy they go into That'll make the alloy swell and reduce pressure on the threads, plus won't damage the paintwork/ plastic

 

[Pod]

WOO HOOO



Got it sorted this morning.

Finally decided to bite the bullet and take it in to Williams Manchester BMW.

I asked for a price over the phone just to get the fault diagnosed - and they said £35 - which I though was quite reasonable, as they said they would give the brakes a check over too.

After waiting about an hour (it was booked in for half an hour) I was expecting some bad news.

Apparently it was a bit of corrosion on the connector to the back sensor (2 pin behind the clip on side panel) He cleaned it up, reset it and its working again!

Then came the bill...........













£17.50





Good hey!

Thanks for all your help guys,

Cheers

Chris