ABS2 fault code 16

notagser

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While out on the bike today, I moved off from being stopped at a junction, and the ABS lights went into "alternate flashing" mode.
I stopped and tried the restarting method in case it was a battery issue, but that made no difference.
When home, I connected my GS911 and got Fault Code 16: ABS piston fault.
I cleared the fault code, and took a drive round the block and all was well.
Has anyone else experienced this fault, and if so, what was the solution?
 
what was it like? Transparent and Honey coloured

Or dark and like thick black Coffee or Coca Cola?

Might just have been a bit of debris stirred up from flushing the lines through

At least when you have "alternate lights" you have ABS II and the Brakes continue to function !!! :rob
 
I reckon my bike is still on its original fluid. :D. 2002 1150 GS. Brakes just as powerful as when I bought it 8 years ago. Obviously different pads. :). Got no plans to change it anytime soon either. :thumb2
 
I reckon my bike is still on its original fluid. :D. 2002 1150 GS. Brakes just as powerful as when I bought it 8 years ago. Obviously different pads. :). Got no plans to change it anytime soon either. :thumb2

its the absorption of water that does the damage in more way than one

Only 3% water absorption can reduce braking efficiency by 30% "IF" I remember correctly, I did a technical article for a BM forum it was waaaaay over 10 years ago now, Basically the water boils and causes steam whilst only minute quantities, it is a vapour rather than a liquid and that is why your brakes "fade" when used heavily with lack of fluid changes

Also as the water is absorbed other things can be absorbed and you get corrosive effects on seals and reservoirs and pipes


Its only £8 for a litre of DOT 4 .... and a half an hour ??

Still not for changing?
 
what was it like? Transparent and Honey coloured

Or dark and like thick black Coffee or Coca Cola?

Might just have been a bit of debris stirred up from flushing the lines through

At least when you have "alternate lights" you have ABS II and the Brakes continue to function !!! :rob
I was expecting treacle fluid, but it was probably straw coloured.
I'll leave it for the moment, but I've found the article on ADVrider on dismantling ABS2 modulators. I've got a spare from a previous project, so I've modified a socket, and had a go at removing the pistons from that, to see how easy it was.
It was easy, after one of my old 22mm sockets spent some time in the lathe!
 
its the absorption of water that does the damage in more way than one

Only 3% water absorption can reduce braking efficiency by 30% "IF" I remember correctly, I did a technical article for a BM forum it was waaaaay over 10 years ago now, Basically the water boils and causes steam whilst only minute quantities, it is a vapour rather than a liquid and that is why your brakes "fade" when used heavily with lack of fluid changes

Also as the water is absorbed other things can be absorbed and you get corrosive effects on seals and reservoirs and pipes


Its only £8 for a litre of DOT 4 .... and a half an hour ??

Still not for changing?

Nope. :D
 
Oh, and it's the original alternator belt too! :thumby:
 
Oh, and it's the original alternator belt too! :thumby:

Your original alternator belt is your affair, your willful disregard for the safety of others by not changing your brake fluid is something else altogether. Quite frankly I don't give a toss if you harm yourself but there is a good chance that, as your brakes may fail to work correctly, you could injure others. I think brake fluid testing should be part of our MOT test as it is in at least some counties in Europe. That way those too tight or too stupid to get their fluid changed would be forced into it.

John
 
Your original alternator belt is your affair, your willful disregard for the safety of others by not changing your brake fluid is something else altogether. Quite frankly I don't give a toss if you harm yourself but there is a good chance that, as your brakes may fail to work correctly, you could injure others. I think brake fluid testing should be part of our MOT test as it is in at least some counties in Europe. That way those too tight or too stupid to get their fluid changed would be forced into it.

John

Behave, if his brakes won't suddenly fail due to the brake fluid. They may fade quicker with continual use, but it will be a noticeable drop of in performance and there will be plenty of warning at the lever for him to stop and let things cool down. Nobody's life is at risk.
 
Behave, if his brakes won't suddenly fail due to the brake fluid. They may fade quicker with continual use, but it will be a noticeable drop of in performance and there will be plenty of warning at the lever for him to stop and let things cool down. Nobody's life is at risk.

Not so, his brakes could suddenly fail and with little or no warning. Moisture in old brake fluid lowers the boiling point and therefore can lead to total loss of braking. This is not brake fade, that is caused by heat effecting the pad/disc grip. With brake fade you can still apply pressure to the pads but the braking is reduced. With boiling fluid you are no longer applying pressure since the fluid had turned into a gas. Granted this is unlikely to happen in normal and steady riding but heavy use, for instance two up in the mountains can result in brake loss.

In my seven years in Austria we had numerous instances of problems caused by old fluid. One rider lost both brakes coming down a pass and arrived back white as a sheet. I checked the bike, all pads were nearly new and of good quality, all three discs were in good condition there were no fluid leaks or seized sliders. The brake fluid was discoloured so was changed. The brake performed perfectly over all the other mountain passes he rode. I changed fluid on dozens of bikes, usually on the rear after guest had reported a loss of braking with the pedal just sinking with no resistance. I put this down to the increased use of the rear brake riders often adopt in the mountains especially with a loaded bike.

So please don't confuse brake fade with brake failure due to boiling fluid. As you rightly say we normally get warning with brake fade as it tends to be progressive. Old fluid on the other hand will have a lower than desirable boiling point and once it reaches that point the brakes will cease to work.

John
 
We're slipping in our dire warning scenarios - there's usually always mention of brakes failing and wiping out a bus stop full of people old and young and the "old standard" of plowing into hordes of innocent kids on their way to school. Very disappointed in the falling ukgser standards of disasterous outcomes.
 
We're slipping in our dire warning scenarios - there's usually always mention of brakes failing and wiping out a bus stop full of people old and young and the "old standard" of plowing into hordes of innocent kids on their way to school. Very disappointed in the falling ukgser standards of disasterous outcomes.

My guest with the total brake failure on a mountain pass nearly took out an entire family of Marmots. Does that count?

John
 
Not so, his brakes could suddenly fail and with little or no warning. Moisture in old brake fluid lowers the boiling point and therefore can lead to total loss of braking. This is not brake fade, that is caused by heat effecting the pad/disc grip. With brake fade you can still apply pressure to the pads but the braking is reduced. With boiling fluid you are no longer applying pressure since the fluid had turned into a gas. Granted this is unlikely to happen in normal and steady riding but heavy use, for instance two up in the mountains can result in brake loss.

In my seven years in Austria we had numerous instances of problems caused by old fluid. One rider lost both brakes coming down a pass and arrived back white as a sheet. I checked the bike, all pads were nearly new and of good quality, all three discs were in good condition there were no fluid leaks or seized sliders. The brake fluid was discoloured so was changed. The brake performed perfectly over all the other mountain passes he rode. I changed fluid on dozens of bikes, usually on the rear after guest had reported a loss of braking with the pedal just sinking with no resistance. I put this down to the increased use of the rear brake riders often adopt in the mountains especially with a loaded bike.

So please don't confuse brake fade with brake failure due to boiling fluid. As you rightly say we normally get warning with brake fade as it tends to be progressive. Old fluid on the other hand will have a lower than desirable boiling point and once it reaches that point the brakes will cease to work.

John

I'm thoroughly shitting it now :rolleyes:
 


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