Accelerator Module

Hi Jens,

I copied the following statement from your site:

"This means that within the temperature range where people actually consider riding their bikes, the serial resistor will add from 3% to 10% fuel. Not exactly the high tech solution some of the Scammers are promoting."

I guess what you're saying here is, at very hot ambient temperatures a serial resistor will add 10% more fuel.

Again I quote from your site:
"This means that if we're running the engine at 14,4:1 and we add another 6% of fuel, the calculation will look like this:
14,4 : (1 + (6 : 100)) = 13,58 : 1"


So if we make the math for 10% more fuel:

14,4: (1 + (10 : 100)) = 13,09 : 1

Are you sure running the engine at 13,09 :1 is extremely rich and will wash the oil film from the cylinders?

cheers

Tolga

Going from 14,1:1 to 13,6:1 will be a positive experience for you and your bike. Going down to 13:1 will not improve anything but fuel consumption, but will on the other hand not harm any engine.

However, you should note that the 10% figure is just from my example, where the resistor was tuned correctly for 20 degrees. If the resistor was tuned for zero degrees celsius, you would see up to 20% fuel added on a very hot day. Now we're down to 12:1.

My point is that you could harm your engine if you or the provider of your preferred tuning device does not understand how this works.

What we want is a stable enrichment, regardless of ambient temperature.

/Jens
 
I'll let you know how the engine responds and feels as I've just ordered one of Jens "Booster plugs". Mines an 07 de-cat'ed BWM headers and Remus powercone.

If Mrs Whatshername is not sat on Postman Pat's shirt tails I expect to have it on the bike by the end of next week.

Just an observation for your info - Re-fitting the STD silencer definitely improves bottom end and mid range urge, so assume back pressure increase is playing a role here.

Will let you know my riding impressions once the Booster Plugs fitted.
 
The booster plug is a far better solution going by the description. Should work more consistent over the seasons as well. I used to mess around with resistors years ago on early GPZ 750 turbo fuel injection systems and yes the idea is exactly the same 20 years on. The difference being then is that people made the values available to anyone who asked so it was a 50p mode not a £29. Course everyone has to make a pound these days and who can blame them. So if you have any knowledge in this field at all you can cross reference some recent posts on here and come up with your own solution for a couple of quid. To help you on your way the plugs are called junior timing plugs and are about £1.50 each. If you have no idea what I am on about then please don't mess about and break something. Go buy one of the £29 units and give someone a living, it will work and he isn't trying to con anyone but its effect will be limited. If your feeling flush then a booster plug is a better design that will have a more consistent effect but yes your going to pay a lot more for it but to be honest will take you a fair bit of messing around to get something like the boosterplug to work so fair is fair I suppose. The one option at this moment that I wouldn't recommend is the Power FRK. There is far too many question marks and inconsistent explanations over this device and until they are answered fully then I cant see it being any better than the Accelerator module but at a vastly increased price, this of course could change given the right information. What none of devices are is a replacement for a power commander. You can have a bike in any state of tune with a PC and be able to map the fuel requirement exactly to where you want. All the recent resistor modules give you is a given amount of enrichment that isn't tunable so it will either suit your bike or it wont. So in the end its up to you guys and how much you do or don't want to pay and what results your looking to achieve and from where. I hope nobody takes offence to any of this but I know at least two of the parties concerned will see it all as fair and they aren't trying to tell you anything different anyway.
 
Jens, well done on you Boosterplug, it looks a good device and I may order one from you soon.

Regarding your resistance – temperature figures, can I suggest you convert them to graphs; they would be much easier to follow.

Martin
 
This is just a thought but if the engine at higher temps would run to rich, wouldnt the lambda sensor tell the ECU to try to compensate that a bit at least?
 
I'm not as heroic in my GSing as some.
You'll not be seeing pictures of me riding around in the snow.:eek:
And I don't live any further south than southern England.

In a nut shell, zero to 40 degrees C. is fine.

Maybe if this was for my car (just turn need to turn the heater up..),
I'd be concerned about sub-zero running.

http://www.sol2.be/Accelerator/English/Features/index.html

The smaller graph on the above page suggests the Accelerator boosts
"percentage greater injection" at a fairly consistent rate between given temps.



This has got to be the ultimate 'waiting for a bus' thread. Nothing and then...
 
The difference being then is that people made the values available to anyone who asked so it was a 50p mode not a £29. Course everyone has to make a pound these days and who can blame them. So if you have any knowledge in this field at all you can cross reference some recent posts on here and come up with your own solution for a couple of quid. To help you on your way the plugs are called junior timing plugs and are about £1.50 each. If you have no idea what I am on about then please don't mess about and break something. Go buy one of the £29 units and give someone a living, it will work and he isn't trying to con anyone but its effect will be limited.

I am as sceptical as anyone else and haven't fitted my module yet. My mate has given it to his boffins at work, just to check that there are actual resistors in the thing and I now know the values, but there is no way that I will I let anyone know because mavn has the right to make a living from his efforts !:rob
 
Jens, well done on you Boosterplug, it looks a good device and I may order one from you soon.

Regarding your resistance – temperature figures, can I suggest you convert them to graphs; they would be much easier to follow.

Martin

Thanks for your suggestion Martin.

I thought about making graphs, but I'm not too keen on them.

Everybody else seems to have some kind of "pissing contest" about who can show the most fabolous graph. Nobody can tell if the wonderful curves have any connection to the real world.

I dont claim that the Boosterplug will give you 25% more top end horsepower or better weather for the next week - What you will get is rideability from an engine that will follow your command much better.

OK - I got carried away here. You weren't talking about power graphs, but for now I'll stick to the facts and figures.

But your general point about the graphs being easier to follow is right, but as mentioned earlier, I dont want to join the "Pissing contest" :jibber

/Jens
 
Qiute right :thumb2

This is excactly the big problem using a serial resistor.

At low temperatures you'll see no effect (Very little enrichment), and on a hot day, your engine will run extremely rich, with the risk of "washing" the oil film from the cylinders.

Se detailed explanation here: http://www.boosterplug.com/The-Problem.html

/Jens


Hi Jens,

Who is saying I'm using a serial resistor? I already mentioned that it is a network of different resistors... People who already bought a moudule will notice that the value of resistance adapts to the ambient temperature... It will give you a nice -20 degrees offset over the whole range, but cutting it towards the -degrees range. Reading from your website, I don't think a lot of different technique is being used. Only the values and the way of controlling the offsets over the whole temperature range could be different... :thumb2
 
Qiute right :thumb2

This is excactly the big problem using a serial resistor.

At low temperatures you'll see no effect (Very little enrichment), and on a hot day, your engine will run extremely rich, with the risk of "washing" the oil film from the cylinders.

Se detailed explanation here: http://www.boosterplug.com/The-Problem.html

/Jens

All explains why I so no difference at 3-5deg C....I look forward to testing in warmer weather...say around May. Has it been that much warmer in other parts of the country where the results have been more positive?
 
Hi Jens,

Who is saying I'm using a serial resistor? I already mentioned that it is a network of different resistors... People who already bought a moudule will notice that the value of resistance adapts to the ambient temperature... It will give you a nice -20 degrees offset over the whole range, but cutting it towards the -degrees range. Reading from your website, I don't think a lot of different technique is being used. Only the values and the way of controlling the offsets over the whole temperature range could be different... :thumb2

Oops...posts crossed...back to the drawing board...
 
Hi Jens,

Who is saying I'm using a serial resistor? I already mentioned that it is a network of different resistors... People who already bought a moudule will notice that the value of resistance adapts to the ambient temperature... It will give you a nice -20 degrees offset over the whole range, but cutting it towards the -degrees range. Reading from your website, I don't think a lot of different technique is being used. Only the values and the way of controlling the offsets over the whole temperature range could be different... :thumb2

Interesting thread. So far, Jens has given the best explanation to back up the function of his product. I am not of the try it and see brigade and do have a good understanding of the operation of an IC engine and air fuel ratios. I want to be technically convinced before trying the product and Jens has done a much better job of this so far. Some more information please, Mavn:)
 
Hi Jens,

Who is saying I'm using a serial resistor? I already mentioned that it is a network of different resistors... People who already bought a moudule will notice that the value of resistance adapts to the ambient temperature... It will give you a nice -20 degrees offset over the whole range, but cutting it towards the -degrees range. Reading from your website, I don't think a lot of different technique is being used. Only the values and the way of controlling the offsets over the whole temperature range could be different... :thumb2

Ooops - my bad.

I thought the comment I was quoting was being made on another product. I have no knowledge of the contains of your device, so I'm not able to comment on it.

But I stick to my claim that proper temperature compensation can only be done with the use of an external NTC resistor.

/Jens
 
Interesting thread. So far, Jens has given the best explanation to back up the function of his product. I am not of the try it and see brigade and do have a good understanding of the operation of an IC engine and air fuel ratios. I want to be technically convinced before trying the product and Jens has done a much better job of this so far. Some more information please, Mavn:)


Hi Owen,

What more info do you need? Principle / advantages are explained on my website.

I'm sure that all these these modules works (Power FRK, Boosterplug, Recyclized,...) works in the same way. The way the resistor network is build up can be different. I guess none of these devices is using a serial resistor (as explained why on the boosterplug website) :)

I tested my device a long time ago in Belgium (with a lot of collegues). For me and my collegues it was field proven. I started advertising in Belgium. Meantime have quit a lot of happy users in Belgium. This is all before I even made advertisement on this forum. So I don't think it is correct as suggested somewhere in this thread that users of this forum are beta testers. (sorry I needed this of my chest)
 
.....What more info do you need? Principle / advantages are explained on my website....

Jens has explained in detail how his device works and how it compensates for the non-linearity of the air intake temperature sensor. I suppose it doesn't really tell me if he and / or you are making it all up, but it looks more convincing. So, how does your network of resistors work to make the temperature 'correction' as linear as possible?
 
Jens has explained in detail how his device works and how it compensates for the non-linearity of the air intake temperature sensor. I suppose it doesn't really tell me if he and / or you are making it all up, but it looks more convincing. So, how does your network of resistors work to make the temperature 'correction' as linear as possible?

I tested the BoosterPlug on my own bike with the GS-911 tool in a lot of different temperature conditions, and reality measurements matched my calculations nicely.

Of course I cant be trusted on this as I'm selling the product :D - but I sincerely hope that one of my customers will do the samme test and publish the results.

/Jens
 
Jens has explained in detail how his device works and how it compensates for the non-linearity of the air intake temperature sensor. I suppose it doesn't really tell me if he and / or you are making it all up, but it looks more convincing. So, how does your network of resistors work to make the temperature 'correction' as linear as possible?

Hi Owen,

Like I said. Everyone is using the same type of components...
 
7,907 views already. What an intriguing thread !

Mavn, if your product is so sophisticated and does not use serial resistors, then where is this sophistication hidden?

I am no electrician so pardon my ignorance:confused:
The upper is jenslh's product and lower is Mavn's
740893062_vfAXb-L.jpg
 


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