Accelerator Module

I found mine made a noticeable difference but over time the control unit would relearn and be back to square one

Sent using witchcraft

I had an AC mod fitted to my 09 GSA for 4 years and 35k miles, and it was always effective throughout.

I eventually removed it when i part-exed the bike for a 2013 TC GSA.....The difference was immediately apparent = rough fueling again.

BTW, i haven't fitted the AC to my TC GSA, as the fueling is absolutely excellent (much better than my old bike, even with de-cat headers and AC mod) .
 
I found mine made a noticeable difference but over time the control unit would relearn and be back to square one
A hilltop garage reprogram sorted the poor running however, not cheap but cheaper than another bike.
I can't see how as it's only used in open loop so it's not using the lambda so how does it do this? Anyway, if it can, disconnecting the battery overnight tends to clear ecus so I imagine the same will reset this... wouldn't it?

I'm not suggesting that the hilltop solution isn't better, I'll get this done when I'm able, but don't understand the 'cheaper than a new bike' comment. Is there a suggestion that using this does the bike some harm?

Cheers,

Mark
 
I can't see how as it's only used in open loop so it's not using the lambda so how does it do this? Anyway, if it can, disconnecting the battery overnight tends to clear ecus so I imagine the same will reset this... wouldn't it?

I'm not suggesting that the hilltop solution isn't better, I'll get this done when I'm able, but don't understand the 'cheaper than a new bike' comment. Is there a suggestion that using this does the bike some harm?

Cheers,

Mark

NO it wont do any harm, and NO disconnecting the battery wont re set the module as there is nothing too reset. All it does is fool the ECU into thinking its 20 deg colder than it actually is and rich ens the fueling accordingly.
 
How can the control unit relearn what the air temperature is? It can't, it relies on the very sensor that has been modified to tell it what the temperature of the air in the air box is. Therefore, if your bike is improved with the addition of an accelerator module it will remain improved indefinitely, until you take it off.

Actually, this is entirely possible.

Most ECUs have "learning" maps to account for sensors drifting out of spec. The lambda sensor is constantly gathering data which the ECU will compare this to it's various map tables and if it senses a different AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) from the one it expects to see it will log that and use it to correct for the appropriate sensor - typically it will correct at least the MAF (Mass Air Flow meter) and make ignition timing compensations.

This is because since air density differs with air temperature, the ECU will expect a higher mass of oxygen when the ambient temperature is lower. Since the ECU is being tricked into thinking the air temperature is lower than it really is, it will inject more fuel or alter the ignition timing to maintain the target AFR. Since this extra fuel or altered ignition timing is not actually required, the volume of O2 in the exhaust gasses will not be what the ECU expects to see. It will therefore think that it is getting duff readings and learn this discrepancy in order to compensate for it in the future. The "learning" is likely to be more significant in newer ECUs than older ones and certainly more significant for drive-by-wire throttles.

As an aside, the guys making these devices claim that they work when the ECU is in Open Loop fuelling mode and cause it to enrich the fuel mixture. This is only part of the story. What these devices do is trick the ECU in to using the wrong value from Air Temperature vs Fuel Enrichment tables and Air Temperature vs Ignition Timing Adjustment tables. The latter of these two tables is probably the more significant IMHO even though it is not mentioned in the technical info on the manufacturers site (which just goes to show that, worryingly, manufacturers sometimes only have a rudimentary understanding of engine management systems). Anyway, neither of these tables are usually specific to open or closed loop fuelling - they are simply "adders" that are used to calculate final fuelling and ignition timing values and are therefore used in both fuelling modes.

In fact, the improvement at low RPMs mentioned by many people and touted as one of the main benefits of these devices by the manufacturers means that it is very unlikely that they only affect open loop fuelling. Why? Because ECUs tend to stay in closed loop fuelling except at higher engine loads (i.e. wide throttle openings) since closed loop fuelling is more accurate and better for emissions. The reason for switching to open loop fuelling is that at higher engine loads most lambda sensors go out of range (typically, they are only accurate within a very narrow band e.g. lambda +/- 0.1 or in other words 0.9 to 1.1 * stoich) and therefore the ECU can't rely on them at that point. Instead, once outside this range, the ECUs use look up tables for injector duty cycle, ignition timing, air flow, etc to try and hit the target AFRs for a given engine load.

That's not to say these devices don't work or that they will cause damage to the engine - in fact, I'm pretty sure they work and are also unlikely to cause harm especially as the richer the mixture and the more ignition retardation there is, the less detonation you're likely to see (perhaps be a little coking but fuel enrichment is unlikely to be that high). It's just the device manufacturers theory behind how they work isn't quite right.
 
I can't see how as it's only used in open loop so it's not using the lambda so how does it do this? Anyway, if it can, disconnecting the battery overnight tends to clear ecus so I imagine the same will reset this... wouldn't it?

I'm not suggesting that the hilltop solution isn't better, I'll get this done when I'm able, but don't understand the 'cheaper than a new bike' comment. Is there a suggestion that using this does the bike some harm?

Cheers,

Mark

I doubt disconnecting the battery would reset the ECU as most now require a reset via diagnostic software but yes, resetting the ECU would clear the learnt compensation values.
 
Actually, this is entirely possible.

Most ECUs have "learning" maps to account for sensors drifting out of spec. The lambda sensor is constantly gathering data which the ECU will compare this to it's various map tables and if it senses a different AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) from the one it expects to see it will log that and use it to correct for the appropriate sensor - typically it will correct at least the MAF (Mass Air Flow meter) and make ignition timing compensations.

This is because since air density differs with air temperature, the ECU will expect a higher mass of oxygen when the ambient temperature is lower. Since the ECU is being tricked into thinking the air temperature is lower than it really is, it will inject more fuel or alter the ignition timing to maintain the target AFR. Since this extra fuel or altered ignition timing is not actually required, the volume of O2 in the exhaust gasses will not be what the ECU expects to see. It will therefore think that it is getting duff readings and learn this discrepancy in order to compensate for it in the future. The "learning" is likely to be more significant in newer ECUs than older ones and certainly more significant for drive-by-wire throttles.

As an aside, the guys making these devices claim that they work when the ECU is in Open Loop fuelling mode and cause it to enrich the fuel mixture. This is only part of the story. What these devices do is trick the ECU in to using the wrong value from Air Temperature vs Fuel Enrichment tables and Air Temperature vs Ignition Timing Adjustment tables. The latter of these two tables is probably the more significant IMHO even though it is not mentioned in the technical info on the manufacturers site (which just goes to show that, worryingly, manufacturers sometimes only have a rudimentary understanding of engine management systems). Anyway, neither of these tables are usually specific to open or closed loop fuelling - they are simply "adders" that are used to calculate final fuelling and ignition timing values and are therefore used in both fuelling modes.

In fact, the improvement at low RPMs mentioned by many people and touted as one of the main benefits of these devices by the manufacturers means that it is very unlikely that they only affect open loop fuelling. Why? Because ECUs tend to stay in closed loop fuelling except at higher engine loads (i.e. wide throttle openings) since closed loop fuelling is more accurate and better for emissions. The reason for switching to open loop fuelling is that at higher engine loads most lambda sensors go out of range (typically, they are only accurate within a very narrow band e.g. lambda +/- 0.1 or in other words 0.9 to 1.1 * stoich) and therefore the ECU can't rely on them at that point. Instead, once outside this range, the ECUs use look up tables for injector duty cycle, ignition timing, air flow, etc to try and hit the target AFRs for a given engine load.

That's not to say these devices don't work or that they will cause damage to the engine - in fact, I'm pretty sure they work and are also unlikely to cause harm especially as the richer the mixture and the more ignition retardation there is, the less detonation you're likely to see (perhaps be a little coking but fuel enrichment is unlikely to be that high). It's just the device manufacturers theory behind how they work isn't quite right.

Yeah what he said

Gigsy was listening all the way through the two day course.




Sent using witchcraft
 
The Accelerator module worked fine on my bike. The fueling was immediately smoother and stayed that way. I disconnected it a couple of times and the bike went straight back to its old ways. However, if the air filter is clogged or the bike has a catalyst fitted (clogging the exhaust flow) the Acc Mod then seems to over-do the adjustment. In short, its best with decat headers and can, maybe even a free flow air filter. All of those without fuel enrichment will damage the engine.
 
Yeah what he said

Gigsy was listening all the way through the two day course.

Too much time spent mucking about remapping Subarus! :D

The Accelerator module worked fine on my bike. The fueling was immediately smoother and stayed that way. I disconnected it a couple of times and the bike went straight back to its old ways. However, if the air filter is clogged or the bike has a catalyst fitted (clogging the exhaust flow) the Acc Mod then seems to over-do the adjustment. In short, its best with decat headers and can, maybe even a free flow air filter. All of those without fuel enrichment will damage the engine.

Interesting. Both of those things have a tendency to lean off the AFR - i.e. more airflow in and better scavenging via the exhaust.
 
Too much time spent mucking about remapping Subarus! :D



Interesting. Both of those things have a tendency to lean off the AFR - i.e. more airflow in and better scavenging via the exhaust.

You Gigsy sound an interesting fella, most of your knowledge is wasted on these bods who often have an understanding based on a haynes manual



Sent using witchcraft
 
You Gigsy sound an interesting fella, most of your knowledge is wasted on these bods who often have an understanding based on a haynes manual



Sent using witchcraft

Kind of you to say so... most people just call me a geek :D

Doubt I'll be doing any mapping of my bike though as I've just seen the price of the software required - plus holding a laptop in one hand whilst trying to ride might be a little tricky!
 
Actually, this is entirely possible.

Most ECUs have "learning" maps to account for sensors drifting out of spec. The lambda sensor is constantly gathering data which the ECU will compare this to it's various map tables and if it senses a different AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) from the one it expects to see it will log that and use it to correct for the appropriate sensor - typically it will correct at least the MAF (Mass Air Flow meter) and make ignition timing compensations.

This is because since air density differs with air temperature, the ECU will expect a higher mass of oxygen when the ambient temperature is lower. Since the ECU is being tricked into thinking the air temperature is lower than it really is, it will inject more fuel or alter the ignition timing to maintain the target AFR. Since this extra fuel or altered ignition timing is not actually required, the volume of O2 in the exhaust gasses will not be what the ECU expects to see. It will therefore think that it is getting duff readings and learn this discrepancy in order to compensate for it in the future. The "learning" is likely to be more significant in newer ECUs than older ones and certainly more significant for drive-by-wire throttles.

As an aside, the guys making these devices claim that they work when the ECU is in Open Loop fuelling mode and cause it to enrich the fuel mixture. This is only part of the story. What these devices do is trick the ECU in to using the wrong value from Air Temperature vs Fuel Enrichment tables and Air Temperature vs Ignition Timing Adjustment tables. The latter of these two tables is probably the more significant IMHO even though it is not mentioned in the technical info on the manufacturers site (which just goes to show that, worryingly, manufacturers sometimes only have a rudimentary understanding of engine management systems). Anyway, neither of these tables are usually specific to open or closed loop fuelling - they are simply "adders" that are used to calculate final fuelling and ignition timing values and are therefore used in both fuelling modes.

In fact, the improvement at low RPMs mentioned by many people and touted as one of the main benefits of these devices by the manufacturers means that it is very unlikely that they only affect open loop fuelling. Why? Because ECUs tend to stay in closed loop fuelling except at higher engine loads (i.e. wide throttle openings) since closed loop fuelling is more accurate and better for emissions. The reason for switching to open loop fuelling is that at higher engine loads most lambda sensors go out of range (typically, they are only accurate within a very narrow band e.g. lambda +/- 0.1 or in other words 0.9 to 1.1 * stoich) and therefore the ECU can't rely on them at that point. Instead, once outside this range, the ECUs use look up tables for injector duty cycle, ignition timing, air flow, etc to try and hit the target AFRs for a given engine load.

That's not to say these devices don't work or that they will cause damage to the engine - in fact, I'm pretty sure they work and are also unlikely to cause harm especially as the richer the mixture and the more ignition retardation there is, the less detonation you're likely to see (perhaps be a little coking but fuel enrichment is unlikely to be that high). It's just the device manufacturers theory behind how they work isn't quite right.

I agree with this. But I have found that when the TPS is moved the bike goes open loop which is where the benefit is probably found.
On pulling away from stationery my bike dips to 16.1 AFR for a fraction of a second before going rich.
I would think that a module might rectify this but for the reasons you have stated I will live with it and correct the rest of my fueling issues by lambda offset.
 
I agree with this. But I have found that when the TPS is moved the bike goes open loop which is where the benefit is probably found.
On pulling away from stationery my bike dips to 16.1 AFR for a fraction of a second before going rich.
I would think that a module might rectify this but for the reasons you have stated I will live with it and correct the rest of my fueling issues by lambda offset.

16.1 is extremely lean. Have you measured that with a wideband lambda or is that measured via the standard one in the exhaust using something like GS-911? I'm assuming that's also how you know you're in open loop fuelling too?
 
16.1 measured with Bosh wide band hooked up to Innovate Lc1. It is only for a fraction of a second.
I assume that when the Lambda is 1 on both cylinders As seen with GS911 that it is in open loop.
This would make sense looking at the data logs, It would be nice to have that confirmed by some one in the Know.
If that is the case the bike is in closed loop most of the time. I run my bike at 13.9 to 1 in closed loop.
Reference the accelerator module it might overcome this lean point as it is in open loop but not long enough in those cells for it to be adapted out.
I have had a play with one before, but was not looking at this specific point.
I have tuned it out with a Power commander 5 in the past, but that meant running in open loop all the time. I didn't think the BMSK was totally happy with that.
 
To follow this up I don't think that the module is providing as much benefit (if any) as when I first installed it after putting some miles on it. The throttle response from off to just on and back on again (for example when filtering) is pretty choppy again. I have no doubt that taking it off would make it much worse but I suspect that after time it would get back to the starting point again. When I have a free day to go for a wander I'll try this.
 
After reading a bit of this post, I decided to order it. I got the more expensive one and fitted the sensor under the front beak. Although I did not notice any difference in performance, it sure made it nice to ride in low rpm's and got rid of the constant backfire when down shifting. Overall I am happy with the purchase, great return for a small investment!

2008 R1200GS
 
16.1 measured with Bosh wide band hooked up to Innovate Lc1. It is only for a fraction of a second.
I assume that when the Lambda is 1 on both cylinders As seen with GS911 that it is in open loop.
This would make sense looking at the data logs, It would be nice to have that confirmed by some one in the Know.
If that is the case the bike is in closed loop most of the time. I run my bike at 13.9 to 1 in closed loop.
Reference the accelerator module it might overcome this lean point as it is in open loop but not long enough in those cells for it to be adapted out.
I have had a play with one before, but was not looking at this specific point.
I have tuned it out with a Power commander 5 in the past, but that meant running in open loop all the time. I didn't think the BMSK was totally happy with that.

Lambda is a measure of AFR so lambda (i.e. 1) = an AFR of 14.7 : 1. Running in closed loop at anything other than 14.7:1 isn't the way to go - 13.9:1 means you're running slightly rich all the time. Lambda is not an indication of whether you're in open or closed loop mode. Dropping to an AFR of 16 : 1 suggests that either your sensor is out of range at that point or the tip in enrichment values need adjusting. Does the GS911 explicitly state that you are in open/closed loop or are you inferring this from the AFR readings?
 
Ok. Here’s my take on a module that I recently bought from here. I commute 35 miles each way, mix of roads and urban areas. My bike was running fine anyway (slight jerkiness but nothing I really worried about), I bought it as a addition to my putting on decat headers soon (Akra) with a different end can as well. 2012 (62 plate) GS TC, Running on BP 95 ron.

Starting the bike: No difference
Setting off, cold engine: Smoother, my usual 3rd gear cornering leaving the village was slightly easier wrt throttle control.
A Roads, up to reasonable speeds (ahhem :-) ): Smoother, seemed to have better drive in all gears, nice added umph in 6th.
Urban warm engine: Smoother as well, slightly added umph.
Feel of the bike: Creamier, nicer engine with a bit more poke.
MPG: Too early to say really, but computer didn’t change much and range remains as usual.
Conclusion: The difference was MORE than going from 95 to 98 ron fuel. If I got this improvement from a remap, I would be ok with it – to get it from a £20 bit of wire is a no brainer for me.
Recommended :-)
 
See how it is after a few hundred miles.

Yep, in my experience the map adapts and it gets worse again. I suspect people get used to the throttle response of the bike and simply start to ride around it. I test rode a KTM Superduke 990 last week, a bike that's supposed to suffer from a snatchy low down throttle and it does certainly suffer a bit from that. However, compared to the BMW it was miles better. As others have said a remap is the way to go... or trade it in against a Superduke ;)
 
I have owned two KTM 990, one was the Adventure S ( little bit more off road machine ). I recently bought a BMW R1200GS 2005 model. I have been reading about the Accelerator module and what surprised me is all the talk about jerkiness of the throttle, The first thing I noticed when driving the BMW was how smooth the engine and throttle is ( then I´m comparing to my two previous KTM´s).

I still ordered the Accelerator module and it came by the post today , just installed it and look forward to test it. If it does what everyone here say it does , it will make my BMW the smoothest bike I have ever ridden ;-).

Next on the list is a windshield, Same problem with the stock as I had with the KTM , buffeting and noise.
 


Back
Top Bottom