ACF-50 Wot's it for & does it Work?

[Dan Glibitz]

Hi. just got a can of ACF-50 and after reading all the bumf and blurb, it seems like it's good to spray rust with it and will last a year under the seat but doesn't tell you much else.

Is it good to spray it on the cylinder fins, the wheels, the wiring loom, the frame, engine & gearbox?

half of me says it's like a kind of WD40 and the other half says it may be like a good silicone type "Cover layer" for my new bike.

Does it stop salt from corroding stuff?
Does it make road grime easier to remove or does it attract the dust & dirt?
Does it still protect after washing?



Reason for all the questions is that I still haven't been out on my bike, that was registered today, so while it's still unmarked and all showroomy, I thought I'd spray it all over for maximum protection.

 

[ROJAZ]

I thought I'd spray it all over for maximum protection.

Just be very careful with it. Its does an excellent job at protecting, but the 'creep' is amazing. It gets everywhere, miles from where you apply it. Be very careful around your brakes and tyres..............

And when you have been out on the bike, all sorts of shyte sticks to it and then takes some washing off. You have heard the phrase 'tarred and feathered'?

 

[ROJAZ]

With a brand new bike, id be inclined to use something a bit lighter and more controllable / wash off friendly (like WD or scottoiler FS365) especially as winter is mostly behind us..........

 

[NeilG]

Works well - keeps corrosion at bay, but it won't remove it. Unlike WD40 it's oil-based (keep well away from brakes) and forms a thin film over the surface that doesn't allow oxidation (not sure whether it's just protective or chemically reactive - likely a combination of both).

I've been using it for the last couple of winters and it seems effective (only corrosion is on the timing cover - but no amount of ACF-50 would stop that unless it was applied internally.....). Get's a bit sticky in places and can hold the dirt. I cover all the metal areas and any exposed connectors/switches - all year round for the latter.

Prefer it to a silicone protector as it will wash off when given a thorough degreasing (silicone seems better for enabling crap to wash off easily rather than protect against corrosion and is difficult to get rid of without resorting to expensive silicone remover). Normal washing through the winter doesn't seem to remove it.

On the downside it's difficult to apply - its quite viscous and unlike WD40 the standard aerosol doesn't cover an area - it sort of spits and bubbles out. I use the aerosol tube to get into difficult areas, otherwise I use a plant spray bottle combined with a cloth and paintbrush.

If I was getting a new bike I'd treat all metal and exposed electrics pretty soon.

 

[TheJoker]

It's not a wonder-cure-make-you-slim-and-handsome solution. It does minimize the corrosion, but unless you're really really anal about the application and washing, you'll still get corrosion.

My largest gripe with the product is the application of it. The aerosol doesn't work, the little pump bottle is ridiculous... and when you get it on the bike, it gets everywhere; tyres, disks etc...

It does work, but I wont be buying another one, I'll be trying the Scott oiler stuff...

 

[JAY]

I use it under the tank/ body panels etc as a one off application at the start of winter and use Scottoiler FS365 elsewhere - applied on a regular basis.

As everone has said, the application of ACF-50 is messy and not particularly accurate and it creeps everywhere. Be prepared to ride around in a clod of smoke as it finds its way down onto the exhaust. Smells quite nice though!

 

[newman7096]

Forget the aerosol, just but a bottle and wipe it on with a cloth. It's easy!

It's quick and accurate using this method.

I've been using it for the past two years using this method and it has certainly kept my current GS streets ahead compared to my previous ones.

 

[TheJoker]

I tried a rag, a sponge etc... they're all good for big flat surfaces... and the GS lacks those...

 

[John Armstrong]

I tried a rag, a sponge etc... they're all good for big flat surfaces... and the GS lacks those...

What about a brush, but not Basils, he wouldn't he very happy

 

[TheJoker]

What about a brush, but not Basils, he wouldn't he very happy

I tried a brush too - in fact, I wrote it too, but then my lazyness realized that I had to change the statement about flat surfaces... and now I've typed twice the amount... lazyness aye...

 

[Tobers]

DONT put it on your wheels under any circumstances. Even small amounts will creep (aided by centrifugal force) onto the tyres and you'll fall off.

If like me you did put it on your wheels and it infected your tyres with slipperiness, Gunk or similar de-greasant removes it with lots of water. Luckily, I didn't fall off but it was close...

 

[IanTr]

DONT put it on your wheels under any circumstances. Even small amounts will creep (aided by centrifugal force) onto the tyres and you'll fall off.

If like me you did put it on your wheels and it infected your tyres with slipperiness, Gunk or similar de-greasant removes it with lots of water. Luckily, I didn't fall off but it was close...

One of the benefits of an upright riding style Mr T.............

 

[newman7096]

Ear buds are good for getting in to fasteners, nuts and bolts etc.

 

[Avaword]

ACF50.....

I cleaned the beast last night having covered it in ACF50 back in October.I liberally sprayed it with Gunk spray and then used a paint brush to dislodge all the crap, before jet washing (not on full power!!)..and she came up like NEW!.....Apart from the engine bar bolts which were fitted a month ago,so missed being coated in the ACF in Oct and now look like shite!!

 

[cookiemonster]

thumbs up from me

Hi

Paint it on with a 1/2" paint brush - you can get it into all the nooks and cranies, between fins and into bolt recesses, and... sorry Tobers, you can then get a thin enough film that you can also put it on the wheels.

But, you only need the absolute tiniest amount: they quote the film only needing to be a number of microns thick. If you can actually see the stuff then you've applied too much - not a problem on the frame, but can be very messy story on the tyres... Half a bottle has lasted me something like 12 - 15 full coverings of the bike. My feeling from reading some posts is that often people apply way too much - its not wd40 and doesnt need to applied in the same "spray everywhere" style.

I think its great - it makes washing the crap off the bike an absolute doddle. Use Autoglym motorbike cleaner, spray it on, brush and hose the crap off, lo and behold brand new bike beneath. Finish up with a quick paint on of a new coat of acf50.

Just my 2c worth

 

[jimbo]

I put it on with brush, see here for a link to some useful marketing blurb from them.

I coated my wheels, but have yet to fall off.

 

[Magwych]

Hi, I kept my Harkey going through two winters with this stuff and it still cleaned up great.

Application is a total pain, leave the aerosol in a sink of hot water for twenty minutes first. Worst thing is, take your bike on for a mid-winter service and someone kindly washes all the protection off with their chemical cleaners - ho hum...
Nver did find a way to stop it getting on the disks or tyres, it creeps like nothing I have seen before. But brake/clutch cleaner gets it off in no time.

I don't know what is in WD40, but I will not let it anywhere my bike - it seems to accelerate electrical corrosion. It can help on the day you have problems, but I think it causes more later...

 

[JIm]

Any thoughts on silicone protectors and paint damage?. I have been using "Motul Shine and Go" for a while on a HD and a triumph, both need looking after, and kept them in very good condition, I used it on every thing including screens, with no problems.
A BM dealer stated that I should not use silicone on paint work. Anyone have an opinion?

 

[Mike L]

WD40 is white spirit based and will rot rubber in no time.

Avoid it at all costs. Scott oiler stuff is good or there is an "industrial use only" spray called LPS1 it's fantastic.... Cheeper than ACF50 but doesn't last as long.

 

[Mike L]

Forgot to mention LPS1 is good on plastic, paint and rubber. You can buy it in 400 mil areosols about £6 or 5 Ltr cans for about £35. It's worth it originally designed as a water repelant and penetrating oil.