will
Registered user
Just changing jobs and have got longer commute and was thinking about getting R/75 or similar :confused what sort of mpg could i expect and is there anything i should keep eye for on these 
Airhead commuter
- Thread starter will
- Start date
The later the better with airheads if you want reliability. The monoshock 100RT and RS machines were made up to around 1990. These are well sorted and don't really have any major vices. You'll have good weather protection as well.
The earlier bikes have far more character but come with various issues that were addresses with the later models. If you really want a twin shock machine then go for an 83/84 1000cc machine.
The R75's a re a great bike but running one as a daily hack is probably going to need a lot of spanner input from you.
The earlier bikes have far more character but come with various issues that were addresses with the later models. If you really want a twin shock machine then go for an 83/84 1000cc machine.
The R75's a re a great bike but running one as a daily hack is probably going to need a lot of spanner input from you.
will
Registered user
Thanks Rob it would be easyeir to buy something modern , but on budget and wanted something that will last for while was wondering what mods were worth while for reliability 
was wondering what mods were worth while for reliability 
theres a lovely 100rt for sale on here for only £1400. you'll be hard pushed to find abetter value sorted airhead commuter imho
theres a lovely 100rt for sale on here for only £1400. you'll be hard pushed to find abetter value sorted airhead commuter imho
Ditto.
I was thinking exactly that before i even read the above.
If i were in the market - it's exactly what i'd buy - the only thing i'd have to think about is the how and when i'd go to get it.
Will,
Do I take it you have the chance to buy a r75?
They are a very good bike obviously they have points and as standard the exhaust valve seats are prone to regression so you may find at some point the valve clearances close up ideally you want some history of the valves being replaced around 50k.
The early bikes are prone to engine breather problems as the engines wear. An updated breather is £18 but is a pain in the arse to swap.
Front brakes are a pain as they have a cable operated master cylinder under the tank.
The bump stops in the forks break up giving a harsh clunk when you go over a bump and there are three small piston rings in each fork leg that need to be regarded as service items, when they wear the fork damping goes to pot.
Clutch pushrods have a nasty habit if snapping if not adjusted properly
To sort the issues above will cost the best part of a grand so it's worth putting in the equation.
Mpg will probably be around the mid 40 mark obviously depends how you ride.
Do I take it you have the chance to buy a r75?
They are a very good bike obviously they have points and as standard the exhaust valve seats are prone to regression so you may find at some point the valve clearances close up ideally you want some history of the valves being replaced around 50k.
The early bikes are prone to engine breather problems as the engines wear. An updated breather is £18 but is a pain in the arse to swap.
Front brakes are a pain as they have a cable operated master cylinder under the tank.
The bump stops in the forks break up giving a harsh clunk when you go over a bump and there are three small piston rings in each fork leg that need to be regarded as service items, when they wear the fork damping goes to pot.
Clutch pushrods have a nasty habit if snapping if not adjusted properly
To sort the issues above will cost the best part of a grand so it's worth putting in the equation.
Mpg will probably be around the mid 40 mark obviously depends how you ride.
When we picked up Packer's bike last year, we collected a R75 with RS fairing that had been used as a daily commuter from Bristol to Plymouth. It had around 225,000 miles on it!
The mods done to it were mainly to weather proof it. There were various extra bits of rubber here and there to keep the worst of the road dirt off it. It had handlebars with the slight rise rather than straight RS bars and gave a comfortable riding position.
Proff has it it his garage I believe and might sell it to you?
Its the brown one on the right.
The mods done to it were mainly to weather proof it. There were various extra bits of rubber here and there to keep the worst of the road dirt off it. It had handlebars with the slight rise rather than straight RS bars and gave a comfortable riding position.
Proff has it it his garage I believe and might sell it to you?
Its the brown one on the right.
The one on the right would be right for a rear (power would force the point of the tread into the ground with loose stuff pushed to the outside to keep the tread clear).
The one on the left is correct for the front (road drag and Braking forces the point of the tread into the road with loose stuff pushed to the outside).
What you don't want is loose stuff dragged into the centre.
Look at tractor tyres (yes, I do have one).
Bob.
The one on the left is correct for the front (road drag and Braking forces the point of the tread into the road with loose stuff pushed to the outside).
What you don't want is loose stuff dragged into the centre.
Look at tractor tyres (yes, I do have one
).Bob.
Last edited:
will
Registered user
that is some list there Backmarker
Registered user
The one on the right would be right for a rear (power would force the point of the tread into the ground with loose stuff pushed to the outside to keep the tread clear).
The one on the left is correct for the front (road drag and Braking forces the point of the tread into the road with loose stuff pushed to the outside).
What you don't want is loose stuff dragged into the centre.
Look at tractor tyres (yes, I do have one
Bob.
We know you have a tractor......it's listed in your signature.
Wolfgang
Registered user
Old Airhead
If you're going to commute on it through the winter,make sure you have easy access to a battery charger.
If you leave it outside for a cold weekend after you've been riding short distances with the lights on,it will struggle to turn over.
I loved my old R100RS,but the fu*ker hated cold starts even with new batteries.they don't have man enough alternators.
My '97 R1100RS goes with a ton of frost on it even if left for a fortnight.
If you're going to commute on it through the winter,make sure you have easy access to a battery charger.
If you leave it outside for a cold weekend after you've been riding short distances with the lights on,it will struggle to turn over.
I loved my old R100RS,but the fu*ker hated cold starts even with new batteries.they don't have man enough alternators.
My '97 R1100RS goes with a ton of frost on it even if left for a fortnight.
Bendy toy
Registered user
For all weather bike commuting you would be hard pushed to beat a Yamaha Diversion 900. They dont have the kudos of a BMW but are very reliable and shaft drive.
Bendy toy
Registered user
The one on the right would be right for a rear (power would force the point of the tread into the ground with loose stuff pushed to the outside to keep the tread clear).
The one on the left is correct for the front (road drag and Braking forces the point of the tread into the road with loose stuff pushed to the outside).
What you don't want is loose stuff dragged into the centre.
Look at tractor tyres (yes, I do have one
Bob.
I once fitted a 16" front Bridgestone BT45 16" front to the rear of an MZ 251 and another (18") BT45 normal way around to the front. That little stroker embarrassed a few folks with all that grip.
To get it through the MOT the reversed direction arrows had to be rubbed off the rear tyre
I forgot that every time I post that photo it starts a discussion about the front tyres.
My tyre is the right way, for front Metzler on Beemers, [the RED one] 
...
...
i'd sooner have my bollocks roasted on an open fire than ride a diversion. but whatever floats your boat.
Backmarker
Registered user
Why do I think you have never had your bollocks roasted on an open fire nor ridden a Divvie?
Me thinks you lack both experience and imagination.
But for a cheap commuter I really cannot see past a BMW F800. You could consider a Honda CBF 500/600 - but fuel/tyres/servicing are not far short of a GS, so no real gain for me as depreciation has more or less ceased for me (100k plus). But if you have a mint low mileage GS then the Honda would make sense and can be picked up really really cheap. F800 would cost more, but would have lower fuel/tyre/servicing costs.
I have ridden diversions in various guises which is exactly what prompted my comment.
Similar threads
