Ali Panniers, how to change the colour.

MikeP

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I'm posting this in response to the number of times I've been asked about the finish on my TT Zegas.

The following works on any flat surfaces so it should be ok on other makes too.

First of all I should acknowledge that the intellectual rights belong to Uncle Albert. :clap

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Basically the finish is 'sticky-backed plastic' in the finest Blue Peter tradition. In this case the stuff is the same used for vehicle graphics. It's got an average life expectancy according to the supplier of about five years. My Zegas have been covered in this stuff for about 18 months and 18,000 miles. It's not peeled off and looks almost as good as new plus it does offer protection from road salt and oxidisation.

It's easy to apply, easy to replace if damaged and there is a comprehensive range of colours to suit most tastes (even Tarka's I suspect :P ). The supplier lists reflective stuff if that's what you require (website link to follow).

Today I received a second-hand Zegatop topbox purchased from Keith22 :thumb so decided to record the process for anyone interested.

Even with new panniers it's best to clean the surfaces to ensure the covering goes on easily and that it will stay put. It's more important with used panniers to remove adhesive from stickers, oxidisation and polish etc.
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I use acetone. It takes off most of the accumulated road dirt and if you sniff it it gives you a nice buzz (don't do it really!).
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You will need some sharp scissors, a decent craft or Stanley knife and a good straight-edge.
Cut an over-sized sheet of the covering.
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It only needs to be an inch or so bigger than the panel to be covered.

Peel back about two inches of the backing paper and fold it back on itself.
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Avoid letting the sticky side make contact with itself. It will separate but it will crease and stretch.

Lay the exposed sticky side over one edge of the pannier surface to be covered and work from the middle towards the edges gently smoothing it with your fingers.
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Don't worry about minor bubbles at this stage.

Using your fingers smooth the covering from side to side.
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You should find that the waxed backing will slide away from the adhesive side as you slide your fingers across the outer surface at first but as you go further with the side to side action, the amount of waxed backing paper will become too much to 'push' out of the way.
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With your free hand, gently guide and pull the waxed backing away from the covering as you work your other hand side to side.
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It goes on quite easily.

You may end up with some small bubbles under the covering.
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Don't worry too much. These can be 'chased' to an edge with your finger-nail. Don't use anything too hard to do this. It will mark the covering. If you really want to get rid of big bubbles that won't move, use a pin, prick a small hole and push the air out with your nail.
There isn't really any need to do this because the bubbles will disappear once the sun gets on the panniers or if you have a hot-air gun (a hair dryer might do), play a very gentle low heat over the area and watch the bubbles shrink away.
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Take your straight-edge and knife.

On Zegas the trimming of the top and bottom is easy because there is a nice defined egde.

Make sure that the covering is right into the rim at the top and run the blade at 45 degrees along the seam.

On the outside corner edges, rather than go over the curved corners (that causes the covering to buckle, stretch and wrinkle), I run the knife along the straight-edge leaving about half an inch of bare ali.

Around the lock latches you just have to be careful and have a very sharp blade point.

If you are any good at wallpapering, it's a bit like doing around the light and plug switches!

All finished.
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I think you can see from the newly finished topbox that the panniers have lasted well considering they've not been re-covered.
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Don't press too hard with the knife. It will leave a slight cut in the ali surface but this isn't visible until the covering is removed. At that time a little attention with a fine-grit wet & dry will remove the cut.

The covering accepts most paint polishes I've tried so you don't have to worry about polish leaving marks.

I got the covering from here http://www.shop.grafityp.co.uk go to the vinyls link.

There are gloss and satin finishes. The stuff comes in a 10 metre roll (enough to do about three full sets of panniers and topboxes) and costs about £25 depending on the quality you decide to go for.
 
All in favour of Mikep changing his name to Blue Peter say I ;)

Nice one Mike looks good :thumb
 
Blimey - I always thought you had black plastic panniers and had carefully painted the edges and hinges with Aluminium paint for that hardcore look ;)
 
I have a bit of experience dealing with sticky material. To remove old stickers, pour boiling water, wait a few seconds and just peel off.
To attach the sticky material, I use a soapy solution on a spray bottle. Spray both the target area and the sticky side of the material, apply the material to the surface and then position the stuff, (the soap made the surface slipery and easier to move) smooth the area; I use a pice of plastic (old rule) whose edges I rounded with sand paper to get rid of the water working towards the edges. Leave it to dry and that's it.
Works magic. Learn the technique from a professional....

My contribution to an execelent and usefull thread...
 
MikeP said:
First of all I should acknowledge that the intellectual rights belong to Uncle Albert. :clap
Has to be a first for everything, I suppose. :D :D

Great write-up and pics. I'm not keen on the finish of the panniers on the new 12GSA, so if I go that route I now have a chance to improve on them.

Tim
 
Can you stick stickers on the sticky backed sticky plastic .
 
This is just a 'bump' for those who asked at the Hograost about the finish.

The link to the supplier is at the bottom of the first post.
 
Just to show that black isn't the only colour!

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With the gloss stuff you really need to use the soapy water solution to slide the covering around. The gloss finish is much more prone to cockling and stretching than the satin stuff.

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Cut the vinyl roughly to size and shape.

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Then spray the soapy water solution on the surfaces.

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Work from one side and use a soft cloth to squeeze the bubbles towards the other side.

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Don't worry about some minor bubbles, these will disappear as the solution dries and the sun works wonders too.

Then your free to add other layers as you see fit.

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Yeah ok, so it's a bit Blue Peter but it's cheaper than paint or powder coating, it lasts well and you can change it in an afternoon if it gets tatty or if you get bored with the finish. ;)
 
You can get the stuff in a "chromed checker plate" look too... I put some on the rear bumper of our VW campervan to save the paint...
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It would make a mean "ultra heavy" pannier look, without adding any weight...

Al...
 
You can get the stuff in a "chromed checker plate" look too... I put some on the rear bumper of our VW campervan to save the paint...
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It would make a mean "ultra heavy" pannier look, without adding any weight...

Al...

Would that be a VW Westfalia camper?

Good choice:thumb2
 
May be a bit late?

This question may be a bit late. I've just found this thread through a link from a link within a discussion on pannier corrosion. I love the vinyl coating, and quite fancy having a go myself. I'd probably stick to matt/satin black, as I have no imagination. I was wondering which (of the many) grafityp vinyls you used. I guess I could ring them if this thread is dead?

TobyS

Forgot to ask which width you went for as well. I've not bought the bike yet, so can't measure the panniers. Again, I'm probably planning too far ahead.
 
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would it work on the 650 system panniers with the ridges in them mine are looking a bit battered now
 
would it work on the 650 system panniers with the ridges in them mine are looking a bit battered now
Do you mean these ones?

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If so, I think it could be done but you would have to use something like the black satin stuff I have on mine opposed to the high gloss versions because the satin is thinner and stretches better.

If I was doing it, I'd cut an over-sized sheet and start in the centre between the two central ridges.

Push the material up to the ridge and then use a soft cloth to stretch the vinyl over the ridge.

A gentle heat from a hair dryer or a heat gun on a low setting will help it flatten any cockles and bubbles.

An alternative method would be to do it in panels cut to shape. Use a sheet of plain paper to make a template, then cut the vinyl to match the templates.
 
Toby,

I bought a one metre width.

Off the top of my head, I bought the one that's recommended for out door use with a five year life.
 
Any chance this would work on an acerbis plastic tank? I have one on my airhead which should be white but has turned nicotine yellow.Or will the petrol fumes bleed through ?

Thx

Duncan
 


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