Almost an oil thread

[chasbmw]

I have a very low mileage Rockster, 15kmiles. Very few miles in the last 10 years.
I have some concerns about oil leaks, because the seals haven’t had much use
Back in my airhead days, received wisdom was that changing to a synthetic oil often results in leaks.
Should I use a 15/50 non synthetic oil? The bike is built as a trike so splitting it to deal with oil leaks would be a major PIA

 

[theoneandonly]

trike ?
is it leaking = no = do nothing
is it leaking =yes = ride it more see if they seal up
still leaking = pull it apart.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

I have a very low mileage Rockster, 15kmiles. Very few miles in the last 10 years.
I have some concerns about oil leaks, because the seals haven’t had much use
Back in my airhead days, received wisdom was that changing to a synthetic oil often results in leaks.
Should I use a 15/50 non synthetic oil? The bike is built as a trike so splitting it to deal with oil leaks would be a major PIA

20/50 semi synthetic is the correct spec for 1150’s
10/40 makes for a noisy engine

 

[Riceburner]

If it's not leaking, don't worry about it.
I was given (yes, given) an Ed80 2 years ago with about 10k on the clock.
Once recommissioned (mainly a new battery, new fuel tank hoses, and a service), it's been absolutely fine.
(Mind you, I've not done much miles on it yet)

 

[FatAl]

20/50 semi synthetic is the correct spec for 1150’s
10/40 makes for a noisy engine

I used to run mine on Rock oil 20/50 semi synthetic. It was a nice greeny-blue turquoise colour, reminded me of the old Duckhams 20/50.
hhmmmmmm oil threads

 

[Udders]

Semi synthetic? You sure?
Full fat 20 / 50 mineral innit shirley?

 

[FatAl]

Semi synthetic? You sure?
Full fat 20 / 50 mineral innit shirley?

I used to have a trade account with Rock oil about 20 years ago, and back then they did 20/50 semi synth. I also put it my air head BMW twins, and Harley Super glide Sport. I think they may still do it.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Semi synthetic? You sure?
Full fat 20 / 50 mineral innit shirley?

I use it
Semi synthetic or synthetic fortified

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

Semi synthetic? You sure?
Full fat 20 / 50 mineral innit shirley?

I use it
Semi synthetic or synthetic fortified

 

[DrFarkoff]

I have a very low mileage Rockster, 15kmiles. Very few miles in the last 10 years.
I have some concerns about oil leaks, because the seals haven’t had much use
Back in my airhead days, received wisdom was that changing to a synthetic oil often results in leaks.
Should I use a 15/50 non synthetic oil? The bike is built as a trike so splitting it to deal with oil leaks would be a major PIA

Plain old Dinosaur oil is FINE!!!!

You obviously aren;t going to be racing it ?? Or are you ??

Anyway when they came in to us for PDi from the factory, The spec sheets stated 20W50 mineral and a specific grade which was then supserceded By Oil manufacturers I think (but I don;t have my old Workshop stuff to hand) it was API CC/SE Back in the Day

An Appropriate quantity of CLEAN FRESH OIL of the correct grade and an OE spec Oil filter changed as per spec is far far more important than Should I use, Semi synth, fully synth etc etc

Don;t overthink it !

It will be fine

 

[Larry Langford]

You can also mix plain oil with synthetic, at the same 20/50 or other viscosity. The idea is that get the cold start protection of synthetic, with the ring seat preservation of plain oil. If fact that is the idea behind brands like valvoline durablend.
Back in the day if you put full synthetic in an older machine, besides the possible leaks you could in fact lose the ring seat, and start seeing oil consumption. I experienced that myself and switched to a blend and brought the ring seat back for the most part, ie stopped using oil, ran better ....

 

[DrFarkoff]

You can also mix plain oil with synthetic, at the same 20/50 or other viscosity. The idea is that get the cold start protection of synthetic, with the ring seat preservation of plain oil. If fact that is the idea behind brands like valvoline durablend.
Back in the day if you put full synthetic in an older machine, besides the possible leaks you could in fact lose the ring seat, and start seeing oil consumption. I experienced that myself and switched to a blend and brought the ring seat back for the most part, ie stopped using oil, ran better ....

Seriously ???? Talk about Overcomplicating Schit

NO NEED for all that Crap!!

Actually that crap is worthy of Our own forum "Bot" BUTASS!!

 

[Larry Langford]

Seriously ???? Talk about Overcomplicating Schit

NO NEED for all that Crap!!

Actually that crap is worthy of Our own forum "Bot" BUTASS!!

I'm just saying if you can't get durablend you can simply make it.
On the ring seat that was a 93 dakota pickup I bought. ran good , bought full synthetic for it put it in and it started using oil right away so I switched to a mix and it seemed to recover, not using enough oil between changes to have to add some between changes. which was good enough ....
I have to dis-agree with you though about mechanics in general, it is in fact quite complicated ..... But don't over think it is one of my lines too ... so balance there is good.

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

You can also mix plain oil with synthetic, at the same 20/50 or other viscosity. The idea is that get the cold start protection of synthetic, with the ring seat preservation of plain oil. If fact that is the idea behind brands like valvoline durablend.
Back in the day if you put full synthetic in an older machine, besides the possible leaks you could in fact lose the ring seat, and start seeing oil consumption. I experienced that myself and switched to a blend and brought the ring seat back for the most part, ie stopped using oil, ran better ....

Good advice

 

[DrFarkoff]

I'm just saying if you can't get durablend you can simply make it.
On the ring seat that was a 93 dakota pickup I bought. ran good , bought full synthetic for it put it in and it started using oil right away so I switched to a mix and it seemed to recover, not using enough oil between changes to have to add some between changes. which was good enough ....
I have to dis-agree with you though about mechanics in general, it is in fact quite complicated ..... But don't over think it is one of my lines too ... so balance there is good.

Sorry Larry I don;t know you anything about you or your qualifications! Sorry I have to call Bullshit! Aurora Colorado is a LONG way off UK in Temp extremes and vehicle types !

One thing I do recall Synthetic and Mineral are NOT supposed to be mixed long term Its not so much the base oils but the additive packs... But Hey ho, If that tickles your fancy you work away!

And Once again It is NOT needed for our mild and temperate climate or our Plodding about boxertwin engines UNLESS they are going to be raced at high revs for X laps and even then I am not even sure I would go fully synth But would focus more on adding capacity / and enhancing oil cooling

As a By the By, don't you think that when BMW Launched the engine in 2000 and the spec was 20 W50 API CC/SE (Maybe SF) that they actually tested Engines for X thousand hours etc etc ??? Yet they still recommended Dino 20W50 ???

 

[Wrigsby1]

I have a very low mileage Rockster, 15kmiles. Very few miles in the last 10 years.
I have some concerns about oil leaks, because the seals haven’t had much use
Back in my airhead days, received wisdom was that changing to a synthetic oil often results in leaks.
Should I use a 15/50 non synthetic oil? The bike is built as a trike so splitting it to deal with oil leaks would be a major PIA

All I can say is... You started this... Dr F already has PTSD and RSI cos of this!

 

[JohnnyBoxer]

All I can say is... You started this... Dr F already has PTSD and RSI cos of this!

20/50 Semi Synth for 1100/1150’s ….after first 1000km
That’s all that’s needed
End of.
Next …………

 

[Larry Langford]

Sorry Larry I don;t know you anything about you or your qualifications! Sorry I have to call Bullshit! Aurora Colorado is a LONG way off UK in Temp extremes and vehicle types !

One thing I do recall Synthetic and Mineral are NOT supposed to be mixed long term Its not so much the base oils but the additive packs... But Hey ho, If that tickles your fancy you work away!

And Once again It is NOT needed for our mild and temperate climate or our Plodding about boxertwin engines UNLESS they are going to be raced at high revs for X laps and even then I am not even sure I would go fully synth But would focus more on adding capacity / and enhancing oil cooling

As a By the By, don't you think that when BMW Launched the engine in 2000 and the spec was 20 W50 API CC/SE (Maybe SF) that they actually tested Engines for X thousand hours etc etc ??? Yet they still recommended Dino 20W50 ???

Well, the mixing thing is an old hack. It wasn't my idea originally. I try to mix within brands for sure. I only made durablend out of valvoline conventional and valvoline full synthetic, in an older truck not one with newer engine and cylinder coatings. They are still driving that van (77") in mexico somewhere. And recently I have thrown in one quart of Royal purple in with valvoline high mileage for my old 99" dakota. I'm running full royal purple in my 2016 canyon since I started the maintenance. Both my newer BMWs 2019 and 2022, the shop is doing those right now. The airhead I believe has some castrol in it .... I'm pretty sure that most oils at least used to listed as compatible with mixing. Like say if you notice your a quart down on some trip and all they have is pennzoil or something like that. It will be better to have to level back up, then to continue without adding because your afraid to mix. They kind of have to be mixable.
I'm also just reading thru posts and learning a ton about the nuances of the newer bikes, and occasionally making a post. Just comments .... NO ADVICE, I'm not a guru, just some possible ideas.
I do like and prefer to have to best protection with oil that I can get. And not some compromise for a few pennies. But I'm not that brand loyal usually Valvoline, castrol, and lately royal purple. Amsoil is the best they say in testing but you can never find it it seems.

 

[Larry Langford]

20/50 Semi Synth for 1100/1150’s ….after first 1000km
That’s all that’s needed
End of.
Next …………

What Johnny said ...

 

[Steptoe]

Well, the mixing thing is an old hack. It wasn't my idea originally. I try to mix within brands for sure. I only made durablend out of valvoline conventional and valvoline full synthetic, in an older truck not one with newer engine and cylinder coatings. They are still driving that van (77") in mexico somewhere. And recently I have thrown in one quart of Royal purple in with valvoline high mileage for my old 99" dakota. I'm running full royal purple in my 2016 canyon since I started the maintenance. Both my newer BMWs 2019 and 2022, the shop is doing those right now. The airhead I believe has some castrol in it .... I'm pretty sure that most oils at least used to listed as compatible with mixing. Like say if you notice your a quart down on some trip and all they have is pennzoil or something like that. It will be better to have to level back up, then to continue without adding because your afraid to mix. They kind of have to be mixable.
I'm also just reading thru posts and learning a ton about the nuances of the newer bikes, and occasionally making a post. Just comments .... NO ADVICE, I'm not a guru, just some possible ideas.
I do like and prefer to have to best protection with oil that I can get. And not some compromise for a few pennies. But I'm not that brand loyal usually Valvoline, castrol, and lately royal purple. Amsoil is the best they say in testing but you can never find it it seems.

Are you American ?