Alternative to BMW final drive seal?

MIKA

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Can anyone recommend an alternative outer final drive seal to the OE BMW.

Just noticed the third one that has been replaced is now starting to weep after only having been fitted 500 miles ago and was wondering if there is a better seal that anyone is aware of out there.

TIA
 
If you can see the seal their will be a no on it i/e something like 150-15-10.this is the seal dimensions and not BMW's part no, armed with this no any bearing and seal suppler should be able to supply a seal to fit whether it will be any better who knows (i would think not) Its the same with bearings the no on the bearing does not relate to the vehicle manufacture so a 6302 bearing is the same whether its used on a vw or a Rolls Royce cheers Pete:beerjug:
 
I've had the same problem for 25k, the seal leaks after 500 miles around town. I've rode from Frankfurt to Nottingham with no leaks, ride round town for 20 miles and ....hey presto.....leaks again. No play in wheel.
Gaffer tape around the FD, then add an absorbant cloth and gaffer tape over the FD. Looks crap but works, just tell peeps it's a BMW, they'll understand.
 
Also ride a Truimph Rocket with no FD leaks, and a Pan Euro with no FD leaks!
But my Gilera DNA 125 has a leaky FD...........................
 
Can anyone recommend an alternative outer final drive seal to the OE BMW.

Just noticed the third one that has been replaced is now starting to weep after only having been fitted 500 miles ago and was wondering if there is a better seal that anyone is aware of out there.

TIA

How much oil did you put back in?

BM reduced quantity to 180ml from 220ml because of repeated leaking seals.
 
How much oil did you put back in?

BM reduced quantity to 180ml from 220ml because of repeated leaking seals.

Tried that one last time, even used BMW oil incase it had special German anti leak globules in it.

I'm pretty sure it's very slight play in the bearings causing it to weep on cornering, but not detectable by feeling the wheel for play.

Ride safe
Gary
 
How much oil did you put back in?

BM reduced quantity to 180ml from 220ml because of repeated leaking seals.

Yep, reduced it to 180ml when fitting the last seal. Just been using it for commuting 15 miles each way and it seemed to be okay, however did a run of about 220 miles on Saturday and noticed the leak was back. Obviously when the oil is thinner and at working temperature it is finding its way past the seal.
I was curious to see if anyone had tried an alternative,possibly a softer compound that would prevent the leaking.
 
i would suggest that the area the seal is running on might be damaged.

are you sure it is going back in to the same place as the original?

is the seal lip running on a previously exposed, rusty area?
 
I know nothing about the mechanics of the FD (so forgive this uneducated suggestion), but has anyone ever tried running a thin grease instead of oil?

Land Rover changed the lubrication specifications in front axle CV joints from EP90 oil to a special grease which seemed to cure leaking in the front axle very effectively, and seemed to improve component life as well.
 
I think as Cookie says you may find that the hollow crown wheel shaft that the seal runs on, being made of steel can both rust, and wear where the seal runs, it is also possible to turn the lip of the seal over when it goes in if not very careful. The seal inevitably sits in very slightly different position to the original. The only real answer is to pull the crown wheel and shaft out and dress it up before replacing the seal, it's a bit of a job but can be done without upsetting the preload shimming.

I'm not sure that it's a good idea to reduce the oil quantity as it tends to starve the pinion bearing. I just use a good quality 75/90 GL5 spec. oil and change it every time you change the engine and gearbox oil.
 
A couple of years ago, when my FD started weeping, I compared a genuine BMW seal with one of nominally the same dimensions (MaxBMW online parts fiche gives the size of the seal) and the two were radically different. Look for a wear groove on the shaft that runs on the seal inner lip.
 
Thanks for the replies.

Just ordered a seal from simplybearings.co.uk

It's a bit more expensive then the OE but I am hoping the seal may run on a slightly different area of the shaft in case wear is the problem.
 
What a friggin LOB.........rubber seals wearing steel........ they can create a wear line but you measure it............you'd need a lot of wear to make a seal leak. It's all down to shimming the drive. Thicker oil is a maybe, grease is a no-no as it just 'flicks' to the outside and doesn't really lube the gears.
Ride safe,
Gary
 
I had a similar problem with the gearbox output shaft seal on my 1100.
Replaced it due to a leak but the new seal leaked after a couple of hundred miles. Turned out that there was a wear groove on the shaft (difficult to see due to it being buried in a housing) which damaged the lip of the new seal. Gear oil and road grit makes quite an effective grinding paste.

I drove the second replacement in a couple of mm shallower so it bore on an undamaged section of the shaft - still no leak 5000 miles later. This was possible as the seal sits in a bottomless housing with a bit of scope for 'adjustment' of seal position. Unfortunately this is unlikely to be possible with a FD seal.

When you replace the seal again, make a careful inspection of the seal counterface on the hub assembly. Despite what has been posted, rubber shaft seals can wear steel shafts - SKF and others sell ultrathin shaft sleeves specifically to correct this.
 
it would be interesting to know if anyone with FD leaks has play in the rear wheel or the disc carrier and/or a warped rear disc

any of these i would think would give the bearing seals a hard time, as has previously been noted its got enough strain being a single sider?
 
Thanks for the replies.

Just ordered a seal from simplybearings.co.uk

It's a bit more expensive then the OE but I am hoping the seal may run on a slightly different area of the shaft in case wear is the problem.

What model number did you order?
 
Thanks for the replies.

Just ordered a seal from simplybearings.co.uk

It's a bit more expensive then the OE but I am hoping the seal may run on a slightly different area of the shaft in case wear is the problem.

Check that the ridges on the inner seal are the correct way around. You don't want them guiding oil out of the F/D.

Non specific/generic seals off the shelf can have them the wrong way or not at all. :augie
 
What model number did you order?

From the invoice

60X75X8_TC_VI
60x75x8 TC/R23 Double Lip Viton Rubber Metric Rotary Shaft Oil Seal with Garter Spring

Bought from simplybearings.co.uk total £15.02

I know its more expensive than the OE but the point is to try something from a different manufacturer.

I will post again when the bike has had another 200+ run with the new seal in
 


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