scarab1987
Registered user
Hello. Is there anybody that replaced bearings at Angle Gearbox at 1250 or 1200 LC? Because I cannot find their part numbers.
Angle Gearbox Bearings
- Thread starter scarab1987
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Thats because as they say -
No user serviceable parts inside
However , providing a few more details helps
What model & what year of manufacture helps
Once you know those details
this may help
No user serviceable parts inside
However , providing a few more details helps
What model & what year of manufacture helps
Once you know those details
this may help
RealOEM.com - Select Your BMW Model
RealOEM.com BMW Parts website. This site can be used to look up BMW part numbers and approximate part prices. The Parts are grouped into diagrams and diagrams are grouped into categories and subcategories
www.realoem.com
scarab1987
Registered user
I have a R1250GSA MY21
Try the MaxBMW Parts Fiche.
It only shows seals and not bearings for the R1250 bevel box, similarly for earlier 1200 water cooled bikes.
You might need to strip the bevel box and inspect the bearings to source suitable replacements from an industrial bearing supplier.
Presumably BMW no longer repair them, they just fix leaky seals or replace the entire unit.
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It only shows seals and not bearings for the R1250 bevel box, similarly for earlier 1200 water cooled bikes.
You might need to strip the bevel box and inspect the bearings to source suitable replacements from an industrial bearing supplier.
Presumably BMW no longer repair them, they just fix leaky seals or replace the entire unit.
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.....and the bearings need replacing already.....?
scarab1987
Registered user
Could be yes. Next days I will dismantle everything for check. Maybe final drive pivot bearings are worn, if I am lucky.
scarab1987
Registered user
Finally I replaced both bearings and problem fixed. Unbelievable that bmw does not sell bearings and ask 2000 euros for new final drive. For sure they know that the outer bearing, that they put, will fail. It has very bad design with small rollers and half of them missing by design. You can see at the photos the black power mixed with oil that comes from the worn bearings. I have replaced in my career more than 1000 bearings, first time I see so bad bearing design. Of course I put normal NTN bearings with tge best quality. Bearings numbers are 32912 and 32913.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DSWTBq7Fgws82rmVlfsS5wYe_i8cYplJ
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DSWTBq7Fgws82rmVlfsS5wYe_i8cYplJ
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scarab1987
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I won’t repair the 1200lc units.
The pinion assembly has a collapsible spacer between the input pinion taper roller bearings,this collapses at a set torque to set the preload(no shimming)
This spacer is not available.
The problem with this is you cannot retorque the pinion nut as it will put way to much preload on the bearings.
The only thing you could do would be to “nip” the nut up with loads of loctite on it,or manufacture a spacer and shims.
If by chance the nut comes undone,due to the design the pinion could potentially move backwards into the crown wheel causing it to lock solid
Also,the bearings are of a slightly different design with less balls ( these are bmw copyrighted and are not available.)
Lastly the compression ring that the seal runs on is combined with the pinion nut.
This is not available so any wear/corrosion on this will just cause the seal to fail.
Only the seals are available for these units.
As I said before,I won’t touch them as I cannot offer any kind of warranty and don’t fancy being locked up for manslaugter should the repair fail.
The pinion assembly has a collapsible spacer between the input pinion taper roller bearings,this collapses at a set torque to set the preload(no shimming)
This spacer is not available.
The problem with this is you cannot retorque the pinion nut as it will put way to much preload on the bearings.
The only thing you could do would be to “nip” the nut up with loads of loctite on it,or manufacture a spacer and shims.
If by chance the nut comes undone,due to the design the pinion could potentially move backwards into the crown wheel causing it to lock solid
Also,the bearings are of a slightly different design with less balls ( these are bmw copyrighted and are not available.)
Lastly the compression ring that the seal runs on is combined with the pinion nut.
This is not available so any wear/corrosion on this will just cause the seal to fail.
Only the seals are available for these units.
As I said before,I won’t touch them as I cannot offer any kind of warranty and don’t fancy being locked up for manslaugter should the repair fail.
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I’ll add,
The same story with the propshaft assembly.
Bmw have used a very odd size of trunnion which is not available to buy from anywhere.
The manufacturers of the unit’s cannot sell the trunnion kit as ,again it’s to bmw design and copyright protected.
The same story with the propshaft assembly.
Bmw have used a very odd size of trunnion which is not available to buy from anywhere.
The manufacturers of the unit’s cannot sell the trunnion kit as ,again it’s to bmw design and copyright protected.
Yet another reason why I wish I had kept my Hexhead.
scarab1987
Registered user
What is trunnion?
I can assure you that there is not any point at shaft bearings and spacer that is not clear and serviceable. I didn't touch pinion because I don't have any issue there. New bearings are much better design and quality from the original.
I can assure you that there is not any point at shaft bearings and spacer that is not clear and serviceable. I didn't touch pinion because I don't have any issue there. New bearings are much better design and quality from the original.
A trunnion is a pin through a bearing, presumably Mike means what was previously referred to as a hardy-spicer joint in the driveshaft knuckles ?
There is also a trunnion hinge joint where the final drive bolts onto the swing arm and articulates.
There is also a trunnion hinge joint where the final drive bolts onto the swing arm and articulates.
scarab1987
Registered user
Sorry but English is not my mother language and cannot understand everything. But I didn't touch pinion at all. At the main shaft there is not any trick or something else. It is just 2 roller bearings. Nothing more.
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It’s my understanding that the “missing” rollers on the crownwheel bearings is to allow more oil to get to the rollers,reducing the likelihood of the rollers “ skidding “
Maybe it’s true,who knows
Maybe it’s true,who knows
Fixed it for you
Whilst Hex's are far down the techno list compared to the most recent offerings from BMW You still need someone of Mikeyboys skills and access to proper machinery to do the likes of an FD rebuild
Oilheads?
Old
Heavy
Magnets fall off older starters
Some timing chain guides shatter
Cable sheathing rots
Some Bits are expensive such as paralever bearings, for example:- about£100 the pair?? BUT There are alternatives!!
AND Final drives and ordinary person with some reasonable equipment can do them Once again BM patented off sized bearings and bits (Same with paralever bearings) but they can be bought and even if only 50K managed on a change for not measuring up perfectly Its still cheaper than a chain and sprocket set!
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I am someone of Mikeyboy skills, which is why I wish I’d kept it.
If the FD goes bad on my 1250 and I can’t source a spare, I will just have to make the tooling and shim it instead of the crushable single-use spacer he mentions.
When my 1250 got a new FD and shaft under warranty due to corroding together I wish I could have raided the dealers skip and kept my old one. I’d have soon got the buggers apart and then had a spare shaft and FD sat in the garage.
If the FD goes bad on my 1250 and I can’t source a spare, I will just have to make the tooling and shim it instead of the crushable single-use spacer he mentions.
When my 1250 got a new FD and shaft under warranty due to corroding together I wish I could have raided the dealers skip and kept my old one. I’d have soon got the buggers apart and then had a spare shaft and FD sat in the garage.
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scarab1987
Registered user
Who needs oil to pass when you are already in an oil bath??It’s my understanding that the “missing” rollers on the crownwheel bearings is to allow more oil to get to the rollers,reducing the likelihood of the rollers “ skidding “
Maybe it’s true,who knows
Just to be accurate. Only one bearing has missing and smaller rollers. The other one is absolutely normal and after hard 80.000kms looks perfect.
Apologies, No one really knows anyone capabilities on a forum
I am good at finding faults and fixing them But I would love to have a lathe and a mill and make bits to help solve issues (And the time to learn and do the things I want to do !)
My problem is that once I retire from work I won’t have access to machine tools.
Perhaps I could join a local “men’s shed” group or a model engineering club in retirement ?
Perhaps I could join a local “men’s shed” group or a model engineering club in retirement ?
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