Any Idea What's Wrong With.....

[Steve B]

.....My Steering?

The story is that on the last 2 or 3 of my most recent rides the front end, when going into sharp(er) corners, has become....not sure how to describe it....wooly or thick. It feels more laboured, like it wants to take a wider line. I'm not fighting it but it's almost like riding with a full 32 litres after riding with an empty tank. Almost too heavy.

It's not inspiring me with much confidence and I'm spending time thinking about it rather than enjoying the ride (not good).

Took the bike out yesterday to scrub in a brand new tyre on the front and there was no difference to having the old one on. The back tyre is only 3k old. I did think it might have been the old tyre (down to limit) but alas no.

The bike past it's MOT this week so not sure if the required checks would have highlighted anything e.g. steering, suspension etc.

I've checked the F&R pads & discs (new discs and pads 3k ago on rear). All good. I did put a new speedo drive on (2.6 version) about a month. Would this be the problem? It was a straight swap and I've taken it off when replacing the wheel with new tyre and straight back on so fits properly. I guess I could put the old one back on to see.

I did notice 2 occasions yesterday when there was marked increase in vibrations through the foot pegs but this only lasted a short while (1/4 of a mile both times) but this was more noticable than the usual vibes ( I'm probably becoming paranoid now). It might have been the road surfaces but it's one of my favourite roads and do it quite regularly & have not noticed this before.

The bike is an 1150 with 56K so could it be that the front suspension requires replacing? How would it feel if it did need replacing?

Could it be headstock or front wishbone issues?

I've spent a while looking for similar questions on here but my search skills aren't that good.

Anyone have any opinions or suggestions before it go to an obligatory visit to the local BM dealership?

Thanks for any assistance or observations.

 

[richie]

sheerer bearing...

 

[Wrigsby1]

Stick it on the centre stand and make sure its back weighted so the front wheel is off the ground. Move the steering through lock to lock and feel for and resistance. You should be able to have on left lock and give the bar a little shove and it should go to right lock on its own with a tap on the right lock stop. Friction usually means head bearing probs or something fouling the steering.

Spin the wheel to make sure their is no resistance in the brakes or wheel spindle.

Grab the forks at the bottom and try to lift up to see if there is any play in the main Telelever steering pivot.

Tyres? What tyres are you running and what pressures?

Back issues can affect the front but it is more likely the front. It is suprising that the telelever setup can mask friction in the steering.

 

[Steve B]

Well more developments. Checked the suggestions by Wrigsby1 ( thanks) and all appears to be ok at the front...although I found the right hand side fork more oily/greasy with the associated dirt stuck to the surfaces. The left hand side is fine - no oil/grease/dirt.

I then thought I'd wash the bike and noticed what appears to be oil to the joint of the Crown Wheel Assembly. Attached are a few photos of what I've found. Richie. What's a sheerer bearing? Is this within the CWA? Would this actually affect the steering?

Looking at my repair manual, if it is the CWA it looks both complicated AND expensive! Is it easy to do? If it needs to go to the dealership can anyone who's had it done give me the bad news (£'s). If it's the forks, that does look a lot of work taking all those parts apart.

Any further opinions? I was supposed to be going on a 3 day trip around Wales the week after next. Looks unlikely if it's bad news.

 

[richie]

Richie. What's a sheerer bearing? Is this within the CWA? Would this actually affect the steering?
.

It certainly would and very much as you describe. Its a bearing at the top and bottom of where the forks join the frame... Put the bike on centre stand. Sit on seat and move bars from side to side, if there is the little tiniest bit of resistance then the bearings have gone, cheap easy fix, done it myself on my last honda, and by my book if I can do it, most can too

 

[Keith Chapman]

The fork seal is leaking, piece of pish to replace, but I doubt that is causing your woolly front end feelings.

 

[wessie]

Tyres work as a pair. A badly inflated or worn rear tyre will affect cornering as much as a front.

For all handling problems, assume it is the tyres until that has been absolutely eliminated. For the relative cost/effort I would always replace the pair of tyres as a starting point, unless something else was glaringly obvious.

On my R1150GS, I have experience "woolly handling" twice, that wasn't a tyre issue. Same fault on both occasions: the paralever bearing needed a tweak. A relatively quick job for someone in the know (Mike at Cardiff Motorrad).

Your oil leak: you could be lucky, and just need a seal replaced. Again, my bike needed a new crown pinion seal at 36k. Mike, when he was at Rydales, did this repair for me. Leave it and it will surely develop into a bearing failure.

Of course, if you are very unlucky, the bearing has already failed and is the cause of your handling woes. I'm crossing my fingers for you...

 

[warmshed]

With your vibration, dodgy handling and your oil leak I would be very suspicious of your final drive bearings. but hope its just the paralever ones needing adjustment

 

[richie]

Tyres work as a pair. A badly inflated or worn rear tyre will affect cornering as much as a front.

For all handling problems, assume it is the tyres until that has been absolutely eliminated. For the relative cost/effort I would always replace the pair of tyres as a starting point, unless something else was glaringly obvious.

On my R1150GS, I have experience "woolly handling" twice, that wasn't a tyre issue. Same fault on both occasions: the paralever bearing needed a tweak. A relatively quick job for someone in the know (Mike at Cardiff Motorrad).

Your oil leak: you could be lucky, and just need a seal replaced. Again, my bike needed a new crown pinion seal at 36k. Mike, when he was at Rydales, did this repair for me. Leave it and it will surely develop into a bearing failure.

Of course, if you are very unlucky, the bearing has already failed and is the cause of your handling woes. I'm crossing my fingers for you...

Jeez Wessie, you are the bearer of glad tidings....

 

[davegs]

Rear drive

Put it on the stand and test for play in the rear wheel between 12 o'clock and six o' clock al;so between 9 and 3 o'clock any play between 9 & 3 usually means final drive bearin. Lots of post on here in the font of all wisdom not too bad or expensive to do so have a check costs nothing takes five mins.
dave GS.

 

[Dickieboy]

You say you've recently put tyres on, have you checked the rear wheel nuts, believe it or not my front end went a bit woolly just before the back wheel fell off, it happened about two weeks or so after having new tyres fitted a few years ago, being a numpty I kept checking the front not knowing enough to realise that the back wheel would affect the front steering

 

[robc]

Dave, you don't always get rear wheel play when the bearing is buggered. Mine was a tight as a drum but the bearing was mullered. A visual check is necessary to be certain. That's what I'll be doing in future.

Regards

Rob C

 

[dancata]

Dave, you don't always get rear wheel play when the bearing is buggered. Mine was a tight as a drum but the bearing was mullered. A visual check is necessary to be certain. That's what I'll be doing in future.

Regards

Rob C

+1

If you need a upgrade for the pivot bearings, let me know.

 

[Wrigsby1]

Doesn't the oil come out of the crown wheel seal if the bearing is buggered? As I remember the seal between the two halves is an O ring?? It could also have pissed out of the breather if you added too much bevel oil.

You haven't told us the tyres and pressures which is the 1st bit of a reluctant steerer...

Also if you pivot bearings are fecked it will make the bike sit for longer at the back end and so make it steer slower. Remove wheel and undo Parallel bar. Move the bevel box though its axis and feel for notchiness. If it's there, replace pivot bearings.

Oh, and clean the diff weep to see where the oil is coming from after another ride and do yer fork seal

 

[topcat2006]

Put it on the stand and test for play in the rear wheel between 12 o'clock and six o' clock al;so between 9 and 3 o'clock any play between 9 & 3 usually means final drive bearin. Lots of post on here in the font of all wisdom not too bad or expensive to do so have a check costs nothing takes five mins.
dave GS.

I had play at 9 and 3 and it was the Paralever bearings. It was only just noticeable at 12 and 6. It seems the visual check is best for the wheel bearing.

Tom