Any Ideas why my 1150gsa wont start

[flat twin]

I have had a paint job done on the bike (looks great) started no problem after the rebuild. I have rode it for 400 miles over the past 3 weeks no bother.
needed an MOT on friday so asked my chap to drop the oil and change fillter while he was at the MOT, went to pick it up and it started and stopped afer a few seconds, then did it again. He said to get ready and start ride away, because it had been started a few times and not gone anywhere it would be gassed up. Sure enough rode it home no bother.

Pulled it out yesterday to wash all the salt and shit off, so Muck off on, washed it off with hose with a spray attachment, not a power washer. Started it up as per the norm to get it hot, started no bother ran for three minutes or so then cut out just stopped dead. finnished twating about and went to start again no joy, flattened battery arse!

So took cap off a plug (cant get the plugs out no spanner to fit and none in the tool roll tight bastards) so Put a plug in the cap and turned it over spark at the plug like a good un. the fuel injection is primeing up and turning it over you can smell petrol, so I can only assume petrol going through.

So what the hell is up with, it any ideas

Flat twin

 

[sockpuppet]

Pulled it out yesterday to wash all the salt and shit off, so Muck off on, washed it off with hose with a spray attachment, not a power washer. Started it up as per the norm to get it hot, started no bother ran for three minutes or so then cut out just stopped dead. finnished twating about and went to start again no joy, flattened battery arse!

The manual specifically warns against running the engine to warm it up. You should start it and ride away. Otherwise the engine overheats (even though only a few bars on the temp guage are showing).

First thing to check is the hall sensor (more specifically the wiring that goes to it).

Now you're getting a spark but I'd still check it as it could be out of sequence if the wires have partially melted.

 

[nunesaf]

The manual specifically warns against running the engine to warm it up. You should start it and ride away. Otherwise the engine overheats (even though only a few bars on the temp guage are showing).

First thing to check is the hall sensor (more specifically the wiring that goes to it).

+1

And two other things you may check:
- You mentioned a paint job: verify the fuel quick disconnectors. If not perfectly fit, you may find anomalies in the fuel supply
- If you have a twin spark engine, check the HT coils, you may see spark but it may not suffice.


Come back to us with any questions you may have and good luck

 

[flat twin]

Thanks chaps, would I be better just putting the sodding thing on a trailer and taking it to a BMW dealer to put on the computer. i could do with out the expence, but to check the coils it would be a pro job anyway would it not?

I have now taken the plugs out 4 off and given them a clean, they are all working and sparking but I would not know if they are firing at the corect time and again that would be a pro job would it not?

I did notice when I liffed the fuel filler cap some water in the inner ring, but I made sure that when I washed the bike that I did not directly hit the filler cap whith a jet of water.

This is dammed anoying.

but still your advice and help please.

Flat twin

 

[bart2181]

had a similar problem not so long ago,it turned out be water in the fuel(or so i hope)one bottle of wynns dry fuel in tank and its been running fine since.it sometimes worth looking at the cheeper option before you go splashing out for sensors

 

[ELIMINATOR]

This thread, some way into it, describes cleaning the breather pipe, as ou mentioned water around the inside of the filler cap.

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177599&highlight=breather

Three minutes static running isn't going to melt any wires! How many times have you sat in traffic for longer than that?

This for the coilpack.

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91406&highlight=coilpack

 

[Steptoe]

Lets get the usual thing out of the way first...

Check throttle cables are seated properly .

 

[flat twin]

Nice one chaps, Keep em coming I shall report back on the morrow and let you know how it goes. I have a mate with a 1200 and he had water in the fuel and it just shut his bike down, but he said that his bike has a fuel pump with a filter that is water sensative and as soon as a bit of water touched it the bike shut down.

I dont think a 1150gsa could have this problem, could it?.

Flat twin

 

[tailscookie]

my 1150 done the same ,found out the petrol cap rubber was f@@@@d,loads of water was geting in the tank,drained it replaced the cap /rubber,then all good,the bike was left outside all weathers.ps bart,you should have had mine whe you had the chance.

 

[flat twin]

Lets get the usual thing out of the way first...

Check throttle cables are seated properly .

All fine here, so I am going to drain the tank, check the breather and water drain and put fresh fuel in with this fuel dry stuff.

I feel with the stuff on this post regarding water its likley to be that.
I road back in the pissing rain from a meeting in helmsey last week, washed my bike and it packed in. What with the painter stripping the tank, he could of got rubbish in the water pipe or blocked the over flow.

So this seems the place to start. Where do I get this fuel dry stuff ?

Flat Twin

 

[flat twin]

One more thing while Im at it. does the tank have a filter in it? if it does how the hell does it come out and this problem with the 1200 that has a water sensor, does the 1150 have the same?

I will report back later on the continuing saga of the non starting 1150

 

[biggles12]

Yes it does have a filter, remove tank and cover on the right hand side where the fuel gauge is. If this cover has not been removed before the 'O' ring will be swollen up and need replacing. Tip if it is, cut 10mm out of it and super clue the ends together.

A friend broke down on his 1150gsa in Morocco 3 weeks ago , it was a fuel problem that was fixed by just removing the tank and giving it a good shake to move the dirt etc. He rode all the way back and is still riding it

Problems from the 1200 on an 1150! The 1200 has so many, some must be the same

 

[Packer]

Edit:- Ooops, too slow.

You have to remove the tank to get to the filter which is located on the inside face of the right lobe.

As you have had the bike apart for painting I would also check the multipin connector under the rear/right side of the tank as these seem to cause problems.

Someone else has already mentioned the quick connectors in the fuel lines. Also carefully inspect the O rings in these as they are easily damaged although I think that they are on the pressure side of the fuel pump so will leak fuel rather than drawing in air.

Check that the vent and overflow pirpes aren't trapped at the back of the tank.

 

[MattW]

If this cover has not been removed before the 'O' ring will be swollen up and need replacing. Tip if it is, cut 10mm out of it and super clue the ends together.

No need to cut and glue the o-ring, just leave it on a radiator overnight and it'll shrink back to the correct size. Or order a new one (pennies) when you get the new fuel filter

 

[flat twin]

I broke a quick connector when I took the tank off as it was made a crap plastic and I replaced it with a metal one. I should have bought two then it would be easy to drain the tank wouldn't it. Bugger

So this afternoon Drain tank, fresh petrol and some of this fuel dry. Check water pipe and tank breather and see what happens.

Fingers crossed.

Cheers for all this help by the way.

Flat twin.

 

[flat twin]

Bugger bugger bugger, I have drained the tank by siphoning it whilst still on the bike. I did the first litre into a pirex jug, but to be honest even though the bike was on its side stand and I had the pipe to the bottom of the tank I had no water in the jug and I expected to see some seperation or even water beads at the bottom, but no.

So the breather is working but the water drain was bunged up before it got to the rubber pipe inside the tank. So I have cleaned that out and now I can blow through the whole water drain system.

I have put 5 litres of fuel in with a mix of wynns fuel dry and sat the bike upright and turned it over but it will not start.

So what next could it be the fillter inside the tank, could I have contamanated water in the injection system, between the tank and the heads.

Will I look silly if I just start crying for no reason at meetings, but the others in the room will have no idea that I have dreadfull BMW problems and think I have gone mad?

So to sum up new petrol,tank breather and water drain now clear. On switching the ignition on the fuel system makes that charging noise that sounds as though its presurising with fuel.

what next the dealer?

Flat twin

 

[Voyager]

If you have compression and sparks

And there is no reason to suspect the timing or the coils / coilpacks

Then it is likely to be fuel.

So remove one of the injectors and see if it squirts petrol vapour/droplets when the starter is cranked.

If it does squirt something - direct it onto a sheet of glass or similar and determine whether it is fuel or water or both.

If it is squirting fuel then it is probably something more sinister with the electrics (the dreaded Hall Sensor etc.).

Best of luck.

Bob.

 

[sockpuppet]

I still say check the hall sensor for damage. You never know how long MOT guy maybe ran it for to heat the oil up so it'd empty easier if he was doing a filter change.

 

[paddy dougan]

PM sent,
P

 

[how much]

I still say check the hall sensor for damage. You never know how long MOT guy maybe ran it for to heat the oil up so it'd empty easier if he was doing a filter change.

+1......

check for irratic rev counter movement on turning he key! and random displays

booking it into local dealer for diagnostics,,,,,


just start setting fire to some money!




good luck

hm