Anybody replaced a clutch master cylinder on an 1150

Wreford Miles

Well-known member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Jan 8, 2002
Messages
13,547
Reaction score
266
Location
West Dorset on the TET/GWT
Mines got a slight dribble...

I'm a very light clutch user, but it's got to that point where if I hold the clutch in for more than a few seconds it's starts to re engage as the pressure is lost.

I expect it's not that hard but as I'm a clump when it comes to fixing things I have to ask if its really really easy :D

Cheers

Wreford
 
I just changed mine a couple of weeks ago when I changed the clutch. Easy job when the back end is off, and, apparently possible with everything still in place but probably quite tight. I reckon wheel and shock off then it would be straight forward enough. The clutch bleed nipple is a speed bleeder but just replace that with a 'normal' brake nipple and it's all straightforward enough. I think a new cylinder is about £100 or thereabouts. I know I've seen instructions on here somewhere about doing it in situ, even by the side of the road
 
I just changed mine a couple of weeks ago when I changed the clutch. Easy job when the back end is off, and, apparently possible with everything still in place but probably quite tight.

Wrefords asking about the Master cylinder...... not slave :D


Easy to replace. Once all the heated grips have been unplugged (fuel tank removal, la de da) and the switch gear removed.

In fact the fecking heated grips cause the job to take twice as long as it should.
 
I just changed mine a couple of weeks ago when I changed the clutch. Easy job when the back end is off, and, apparently possible with everything still in place but probably quite tight. I reckon wheel and shock off then it would be straight forward enough. The clutch bleed nipple is a speed bleeder but just replace that with a 'normal' brake nipple and it's all straightforward enough. I think a new cylinder is about £100 or thereabouts. I know I've seen instructions on here somewhere about doing it in situ, even by the side of the road

You little monkey, you didn't read the OP, "master cylinder" on handlebar not "slave cylinder" on back of gearbox :P

I didn't do the clutch, did do the brake master cylinder, I seem to remember that it was a bit of a fiddle getting the bits located to get the lever pivot bolt back in place but that was all.

Are you sure the problem isn't a leak in the pipe between the hose and the slave cylinder? They corrode inside the rubber shroud and then leak. Steptoe posted about this in the tech. section some years ago.
 
I told you I was a clump when it comes to this suff....

and that now includes naming the right bits, my dribble is from that dark dirty area at the back of the engine I guess that's the slave.
 
Monkeyboy was right to talk about the slave etc. :D

You need a new hydraulic hose. The Adventure one from BMW is braided but I'm sure that there are lots of alternatives as well. The bleeding point on my late 1150 (11/03) was remote from the cylinder. Yours, like mine was, may be seized and is likely to be a pain to deal with but you could always replace that as well as a last resort.
 
I told you I was a clump when it comes to this suff....

and that now includes naming the right bits, my dribble is from that dark dirty area at the back of the engine I guess that's the slave.

most likely to be the ali washers on the slave cylinder banjo bolts. They corrode through, which causes leakage.

Remove rear wheel, shock and silencer. Undo the top nut on the L/H fork leg, push it down and draw the clutch hose this side of the fork leg, this enables you to have enough slack to pull the slave cylinder away from the back of the gearbox.
Cut the cable tie that holds the clutch bleed unit to the frame. Undo the three allen bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the gearbox, pull slave cylinder back and twist and turn and it'll get through the gap between gearbox case and the top ali tube.
You'll then have enough room to undo the banjo bolts and replace the washers.
Reverse of procedure to re-assemble.
 


Back
Top Bottom