Attention 2010+ DOHC owners

NLC

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Just wanted to bring this to the attention of the Parish who owns the DOHC engine on the 2010 GS/ADV +. Went to take the bike out today and it would not turnover and sounded like a dead battery not giving it enough juice. Put it on the charger for 10 minutes and then it started and I initially thought it was the battery. I had an earlier problem in the winter with the bike sitting idle so though it was a battery problem. Took it to SBW thinking I needed a new battery given that I only drove the bike on Sunday and they put it on the diagnostic and it wasn't the battery. The 2010 models have an exhaust "flap/baffle/thingy" that opens and closes. When we took the muffler off the tech and I were surprised to find the gunk and corrision in the baffle that was preventing the mechanism from opening and hence starting the engine. The tech made the comment that it was the first time he saw this but would expect many more to come in after the winter. After riding home the bike had transformed itself into a right hooligan machine and was much more responsive and "alive". Probably because I have likely been driving around with a potato for the last couple of months in my asre. They ordered a new mechanism for me and applied liberal amounts of ACF50. So if you notice that the performance of the bike is moderating or having starting problems this could be it. :thumb2 to Kevin and Dave at SBW for sorting things out quickly.
 
What did the exhaust flap sound like when you switched the ignition on on the bike? I'm sure mine goes through an opening and closing cycle as soon as the ignition is turned on before starting.

If it's starting to 'gunk up' I wondered if you would hear a difference. I've been liberally spraying mine with GT85 since I bought the bike in september and don't like the idea of riding my GSA with a potato 'up my arse'.....!

I thought that exhaust valve 'thingy' would cause problems with those cables etc as the bike got a bit older and corrosion sets in but I suppose that's progress.....!

FP.:thumb
 
Apparently it should sound a quick thunk instead of a mild squeak. I'll just keep spraying mine!
 
Or.....................

Unhook the cables like i and others have done and it stays open all the time, full power, full noise and with an aftermarket can :D:D:D
 
Mines started to squeek like a swine, also keeps opening and closing too before the engine start is pressed which is annoying. Also, does sometimes have trouble starting & feels a bit... hesitant getting.

I'll give it a blast of some WD40/Plusgas/ACF at some point over the next few days!
 
No fault found so far. Still tons of salt on the roads here. Mind you, the valve unit doesn't seem to get much crap on it due to a mudsling.

I was suprised how much crap had colected on mine when I was touring Shetland in november so I kept spraying it then gave it a good clean.

I've just fitted a Maier 'Splashguard' last week and i'm hoping i'll notice a big difference, hopefully it'll protect the back of the gearbox aswell.

FP.:thumb
 
Well I've just disconnected mine instead (took best part of 2 minutes all in, but I had a faf about just seeing what it did and so took more like 20), and reading other threads on here seems others do the same, some reporting better mid-range response now as the valve isn't closing any more. So yeah:

Took cover off (2 torx screws)
Cables had a fair bit of slack in them (bikes only done just under 4k since new) so valve wasn't fully opening anyway (even with the big spring)
Could have just tensioned the cables back up, but disconnected them instead, and manually turned the valve as far as it will go in an anti-clockwise direction (fully open, and direction of spring travel)

Bike now sounds a hell of alot more throatier from just starting it on the drive, will take it for a quick spin in a bit and report back my own findings :)
 
Had my steed out today and she has turned into a right nastier hooligan and is back to her old self waking up neighbors and livestock.:D
 
I know I'm going to get shot down for this, but where in the exhaust system do I find the flap and how can I check if it's starting to seize? Obviusly I assume it's somewhere near where the black electric control unit thingy is :mmmm
 
I think the easiest way to see if it is working it to remove the exhaust. I believe it is three bolts. The flap is located at the base of the exhaust by your left foot with two black cables. But if your unsure I'd just let the dealer have a go if under warranty. If the bike if starting fine and you notice no performance problems I'd leave well enough alone and just have them check it at the next service. I'm not an expert though and other may have diff opinion.
 
I think the easiest way to see if it is working it to remove the exhaust. I believe it is three bolts. The flap is located at the base of the exhaust by your left foot with two black cables. But if your unsure I'd just let the dealer have a go if under warranty. If the bike if starting fine and you notice no performance problems I'd leave well enough alone and just have them check it at the next service. I'm not an expert though and other may have diff opinion.

It's due a service in the next couple of weeks so maybe I'll just leave it to them.
With regards to disabling it altogether does it really create a noticeable difference in performance? Can disabling it cause any problems? Also if you need to reconnect it for MOT purposes is it as simple as just reconnecting, or will it need resetting with the computer?
 
Hi North London Cookie
thanks for the useful post, I for one will be keeping an eye and ear on mine.
 
Can BMW do anything lately that doesn't go wrong ? :augie


Yeah - plenty. It's just that the things that work don't get commented on. If you are going to try out new things (or reinvent old things - most things have been tried in the past then get reinvented in a blinding flsah of light 20/40/60 years later), some ain't going to work out or are going to have teething problems.
 
It's due a service in the next couple of weeks so maybe I'll just leave it to them.
With regards to disabling it altogether does it really create a noticeable difference in performance? Can disabling it cause any problems? Also if you need to reconnect it for MOT purposes is it as simple as just reconnecting, or will it need resetting with the computer?

Personally I am all up for farkles and mods as long as it doesn't mess with the original stuff while under warranty. I'm assuming if they have put it on it does something. Also da computer may not like it but I am not sure. So unless you know what you are doing why take the chance? If they have suspected that you have messed with the valve that may open the question of what else you have been playing with. Anything that I put on the bike I can disconnect and given the Canbus complexities the thing probably knows how many times I pass wind :augie. Just my thoughts.
 
Pre 10 exausts dont fit - they a smaller exhaust bore.:blast

Yes and no.

The pre 2010 exhaust muffler/can will not fit the standard headers.
But you can still fit 2008/9 spec Remus headers and a Remus/Akra/Boss etc..muffler combo.
This will do away with the daft exhaust valve, which serves no purpose apart from noise suppression.

:thumb2
 


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