A solution;
So as we all know, the digitized switchgear on our LC bikes means that the now standardized indicator cancel button doesn't work as a trigger for the AS7 autoswitch unit.
On the autoswitch website there's a link to an install done on a 1600GT using one of the wires on the clutch microswitch unit. I decided to use this as a starting point.
The clutch switch assembly has two micro switches; one that closes within a few mm of lever travel and a second that closes as the lever nears the bar. Listen carefully and you can hear them click.
However the unit on my 2016 GS LC TE is different to the 1600GT in that it has only three wires rather than four (as pictured on the autoswitch website).
This should have been my cue to take photos but I didn't - Sorry
Anyway, The wire to use is the one nearest you if you are standing at the front of the bike facing rearwards. It connects to pin 3 on the switch but you'll have ro remove the switch to see that. If the connector is removed, and you look at the end of the plug, it's the leftmost one and if you have a voltmeter, it's the only one with 12V on it when the ignition is on. Sorry I didn't record the colour
Splice a connecting wire there to run back to join the yellow wire on the AS7.
I didn't need to short out the two short blue "programming" wires.
The LED is wedged in between the switchgear and mirror bracket on the left side and the cable disguised in a black sheath and loomed in with the rest cos I don't want to be distracted by a red wire!
After some thought, I decided to re-programme the AS7 to work off a double click on the clutch lever rather than a single one held until the LED pulses because all that pulsing would just annoy me
My relay, Fuze-Block and AS7 all fit neatly under the rider seat and a pair of Cree LED 10W lamps are hung from a rugged roads lighting bar...... Just in time for the long bright Scottish days
So as we all know, the digitized switchgear on our LC bikes means that the now standardized indicator cancel button doesn't work as a trigger for the AS7 autoswitch unit.
On the autoswitch website there's a link to an install done on a 1600GT using one of the wires on the clutch microswitch unit. I decided to use this as a starting point.
The clutch switch assembly has two micro switches; one that closes within a few mm of lever travel and a second that closes as the lever nears the bar. Listen carefully and you can hear them click.
However the unit on my 2016 GS LC TE is different to the 1600GT in that it has only three wires rather than four (as pictured on the autoswitch website).
This should have been my cue to take photos but I didn't - Sorry
Anyway, The wire to use is the one nearest you if you are standing at the front of the bike facing rearwards. It connects to pin 3 on the switch but you'll have ro remove the switch to see that. If the connector is removed, and you look at the end of the plug, it's the leftmost one and if you have a voltmeter, it's the only one with 12V on it when the ignition is on. Sorry I didn't record the colour
Splice a connecting wire there to run back to join the yellow wire on the AS7.
I didn't need to short out the two short blue "programming" wires.
The LED is wedged in between the switchgear and mirror bracket on the left side and the cable disguised in a black sheath and loomed in with the rest cos I don't want to be distracted by a red wire!
After some thought, I decided to re-programme the AS7 to work off a double click on the clutch lever rather than a single one held until the LED pulses because all that pulsing would just annoy me
My relay, Fuze-Block and AS7 all fit neatly under the rider seat and a pair of Cree LED 10W lamps are hung from a rugged roads lighting bar...... Just in time for the long bright Scottish days
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