Bar Riser installation

Buz

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I've been told there is a 'How to' on the above, well i've searched just about everywhere i can think of and guess what? Zilch, can't find anything. It looks pretty straight forward but i believe there could be issues with the associated cables that may need moving and the best way to do this.

So, anyone know where I can find this thread :nenau
 
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Buz.......bolt them on, use a bit of common sense and you can't go far wrong :thumb2

One thing to check though.....even if the cables all look fine on sidestand with risers fitted, pop her up onto the centre stand and check then (making sure front wheel is off the deck).....waggle the bars around a bit so they hit the steering stops at both extremes, and feel the cables....if they are taut or straining at all, you may want to get some longer ones, or move the bars around to slacken them a bit :thumb

Go with your gut instinct.......if it feels wrong, it IS wrong. :beerjug:
 
Buz.......bolt them on, use a bit of common sense and you can't go far wrong :thumb2

One thing to check though.....even if the cables all look fine on sidestand with risers fitted, pop her up onto the centre stand and check then (making sure front wheel is off the deck).....waggle the bars around a bit so they hit the steering stops at both extremes, and feel the cables....if they are taut or straining at all, you may want to get some longer ones, or move the bars around to slacken them a bit :thumb

Go with your gut instinct.......if it feels wrong, it IS wrong. :beerjug:

Cheers Fanum, think i'll do that 1st, then if it seems wrong move the cables etc after, looking at the website quoted thats not too difficult :thumb
:beerjug:
 
Thank you kind sir, i assumed it was a UKGSer page :blast

Bloody internet, i spent an hour trolling the 1200 section for that :(

They aren't Rox but they do the same sort of thing :thumb

I just fitted a pair off this on my bike today , it is so easy about 20 minutes job , just be careful with the cables , that's all :thumb
I can post some pictures but I can not do that from my iPad :blast
 
Here a pic off my ones!
a4a3f74b.jpg
 
If the cables are too short, some can be re routed to go behind the forks, but test carefully with full locks. Its very easy to drop the forks on these bikes; Flick off the black plastic top caps, using a big flat screwdriver and a rag to protect paintwork
Ring spanner on top nut
i-s2bgvtN-S.jpg

Open ended spanner to stop bottom nut turning and the forks drop down nicely with gravitational forces only
i-hcMtzvd-S.jpg

Its so easy because they are not 'proper' forks:D
Reassembly is the reverse using correct torque specs
Check for chaffing or fouling on full locks.
 
Q: How do you tighten the rear yoke bolts in ihandyman247's photo when the rox risers are in that position:nenau
I ask because some yokes are machined with instructions that the front bolt should be torqued first and then the rear bolt is 'clamped' afterwards
This is the machining of the 07 clamp unit and you can see an intentional design gap when the front bolt is clamped first:
i-Kd7Qh2X-S.jpg
 
Sorry to drag up an old thread, but better to search for an old thread than starting a new one!

Did you ever get an answer on how to tighten the rear most bolt?

I'm thinking of buying some of these risers but can't see how you'd tighten that rear bolt to the correct torque. It seems even worse than a normal bolt would be given that they are inverse torx style bolts.


Cheers,
Dae.
 
How to torque up rear bolt

I am intrigued. I must be missing something, as it seems kind of obvious. Can't you postion them with the bars in place (not fully clamped up, just enough that you know they're seated properly), finger tighten the rear bolt so that they don't move when you take the bars off, whip off the bars, tighten the rear bolt fully and then refit the bars? Bit of a faff, but only like having to take the bars off to get a socket on the sterring stem top nut.

Like I say, it's perfectly possible that I'm missing something obvious. It wouldn't be the first time....

EDIT: yes, I was missing something obvious....looking at the picture again, the bolt is still obscured when you take the bars off! Doh!
 
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The problem is that with the riser canted back it blocks access to the rear bolt so you can't get a torque wrench on it.

BMW say that you should always tighten the front bolt and then the back as the back should have a gap and if you tightened it before the front bolt you'd close the gap.
 
The problem is that with the riser canted back it blocks access to the rear bolt so you can't get a torque wrench on it.

BMW say that you should always tighten the front bolt and then the back as the back should have a gap and if you tightened it before the front bolt you'd close the gap.

I have Rox anti vibration risers on my bike and this is exactly how I fitted them because there was no way to fit a socket key.

I also avoid toque wrenches on all but critical bolts like cylinder heads etc. IMHO a torque wrench is more likely to strip a thread than doing it by spanner/thread feel.
 
Just fitted some Rox risers yesterday to my KTM 990 Adv.

Take off the handlebars, fit risers, fit handlebars, check cables etc (mine were fine), tighten everything until it feels tight (I just tightened each nut a bit in turn until they settled). Ride to test. It took me 20 minutes in total.

No instructions with the Rox and no torque setting followed (life is too short - there's some irony there if the bars do come loose but they won't).
 
My hands are especially sensitive to bar vibration. On the Diversion I used Rox anti vibe Risers. But the GSA bars are fine for me so I don't want them any higher.

Does anyone make any anti vibration handlebar clamps to replace the standard clamps?
 


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